lincoln 225 ac/dc questions from noob

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Hi I have a question about my ac/dc lincoln welder.I noticed that the ac amps go up to 225and on the dc settings, the amps go to 125.My question is this,   I set the welder to run at dcep and when setting amps (recommended by the rod manufacturer )   I use the ac settings.Meaning, if the 6011 3/16 says 50 -75 amps I set it to 70 with the ac scale.   (35 dc)Is this correct? I haven't welded since high school.  This is what I was welding on.I am open to advise, suggestions.I used-6011 3/32 rods @ 75 amps-welded that piece downhill, in a pushing way (not dragging)I will put a scab plate on the outer edge of the frame railI will box the inside of the frame.I will weld spring perch to the new metal.Does this look ok?I believe I got good penetration, I let the one side cool, then welded the back. The bead is real flat.I also wanted to say this forum is great. Everytime I googled a search, weldingweb came up.ThanksJohn Attached Images
Reply:The repair plan seems straight forward. Your 6011 bead looks ok. Does your faceplate look like this one? Because there is normally a separate scale for DC voltage. Attached ImagesLast edited by tanglediver; 08-29-2010 at 03:02 PM.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Yeah that's the same faceplate, So far I have been using the white (ac) scaleIs that right?If not, I have been running with low ampsWhat do you think?
Reply:the polarity selector shows dc+  and dc- in red..so when using them read the red numbers..ac is shown in white so when selecting ac read the white numbers
Reply:No offense, but if you have to ask questions on which set of numbers to read, you probably should not be welding on vehicle frames especially parts that will support the suspension. Newer vehicles use special steels and are often heat treated or tempered to get the correct working strength. Improper welding will often ruin an other wise repairable frame. There's a lot more to this than just grabbing a machine and sticking metal together, especially for a vehicle that may go on the road.6011 wouldn't even be on my list for a vehicle frame. I'd guess at a minimum it would need to be 7018 if not 8018 depending on what the manufacturer calls for. Even if this was strictly an off road beat around vehicle, I'd strongly suggest you either spend the time to learn how to do this right (expect to spend more money to learn than it would probably cost to replace the frame) or find some one who's qualified to do this sort of repair..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWNo offense, but if you have to ask questions on which set of numbers to read, you probably should not be welding on vehicle frames especially parts that will support the suspension. Newer vehicles use special steels and are often heat treated or tempered to get the correct working strength. Improper welding will often ruin an other wise repairable frame. There's a lot more to this than just grabbing a machine and sticking metal together, especially for a vehicle that may go on the road.6011 wouldn't even be on my list for a vehicle frame. I'd guess at a minimum it would need to be 7018 if not 8018 depending on what the manufacturer calls for. Even if this was strictly an off road beat around vehicle, I'd strongly suggest you either spend the time to learn how to do this right (expect to spend more money to learn than it would probably cost to replace the frame) or find some one who's qualified to do this sort of repair.
Reply:I'm a journeyman interprov autobody tech and totally agree with DSW, if I were to guess the next crack might be right at the large hole.Its getting away from your question, but its irrelavent now.The hole you plated over-to may be a crush zone or may be their to move stresses around the hole opening as you may well know any square off metal usaully cracks right in the corner wheras circles won't.Frames flex alot.You made it rigid, and work hardened the steel.So it will have to go.But its not the end of the world.It isn't as bad as you think.What probably happend is a bolt got loose and started the cracking not weight.Best advice get a replacement front horn from a junk yard and prep it 4 inches back of the cross member 60/40, double bevel and have a prof weld it for you as their will be verticle welds, if not 7018 dcep, don't over do it.