Thinning Rustoleum to coat inside of tubing

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I coated the outside of some 1 1/2" sq tubing that's 12' long with Rustoleum primer and would like to do the same on the inside. I was thinking of taping one end, pour the primer in, tape the other end and teeter the tubing back and forth.  It's a bit thick and I'd like to thin it some, it's water-wash up so would I add a little water to thin it?  That seems a bit odd for Rustoleum. Thanks.
Reply:Safer just to put enough in to cover at the manufactured viscosity...You might heat it some to get it to act thinner without changing the chemistry...Weldandpower Lincoln 225 AC,DC with Briggs 16hp gas engine.WW2 era Miller TIG.
Reply:Water clean up.  What kind of rustoleum is this?
Reply:Rustoleum Painter's Touch primer - it says right on the can "multi purpose latex paint".  I'm going to add a little water until it's thinner - it can't hurt that much if I don't go overboard.
Reply:Unless it says on the instructions ' ok to thin with water' you risk encapsulating excess water at the joining surface between the paint and the metal... Usually when people are using Rustoleum they are not wanting to do THAT.... You had clearly already decided to thin it with water before you posted. So go for it...Weldandpower Lincoln 225 AC,DC with Briggs 16hp gas engine.WW2 era Miller TIG.
Reply:This is the rustoleum you want not what you have.http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGBrand.asp?bid=2V
Reply:use heavy string and a rag like a gun patch and dip rag and pull through
Reply:that  latex    sounds  like  rustoleum   brand  ,       not   the  rusty metal  paint   .      im gonna guess  that latex  is for indoor use>Innovations are what i leave behind for History
Reply:What is the tube going to be used for? is it going to have any more welding done on it? personally I think that the bore cleaing method as mentioned earlier, would be the easiest. And probably most reliable, save just filling the whole tube with paint and then pouring out the exess. If you're going to doing any welding on that tube I wouldn't be putting any paint on the inside. 1, fumes, and 2, ruining the work you've already done with the paint.If the ends of the tube are to be "sealed" (very hard to truely seal with welding) than there will be limited oxygen/moisture in the tube and the paint really isn't needed. as any rust will not have the components to continue the oxidization process. If the tube is open, and not for exterior use, than again it wont have the components for oxidization as the moisture levels in the air will be limited. If the pipe is to be for exterior use, and not be "sealed" than I would question youre choice of using tubing as apposed to angle or channel. As tubes tend to hold water/moisture longer than angle, and channel  even in dry periods.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:go to a automotive body shop supply and get some undercoating and the sprayer/wand made for  spraying inside rockerpanels etc, might even get it in an aerosel can......
Reply:I wouldnt use a that waterbase paint, unless it's primed first.... even though most paints used today for collision repair are water based, but thats just for color,not for rust/uv protection.
Reply:Originally Posted by retiredIWuse heavy string and a rag like a gun patch and dip rag and pull through