Can't see my mig welds ?

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I am having a frustrating problem and am hoping someone will be able to help me out. I just picked up a MM 211 MIG welder. The one thing I remember about wire is how easy it is to lay down a nice weld. I have a Cigweld darkening helmet that can be set from 9-13.The helmet is about 15 years old and I don’t even think they are made anymore, however it seems to work fine. When I get the tip of the gun where I want it and pull the trigger, I cannot see anything. I see a flash, but I can’t see the wire, the puddle, or the metal to make a straight weld. Today I was welding with .030 wire and practicing on ¼” x2” flat. I have tried a bright light, and adjusting my shade settings. So far nothing is helping. I have no line bi -focals, and it may be a little better welding without them; however I have to stick my face tight to the weld. With my stick welder I can see everything so this is the last thing I was expecting to be troubled with.Does anyone else have this problem? If so is there a way to overcome it? At present, I am just welding blind. It makes for kind of a sick feeling. Any help or comment would sure be appreciated!                 WS
Reply:make sure your lens isnt dirty, if it is that will make things difficult. also have you tried using a different helmet?
Reply:This may help.  I posted a question on vision a while back, interesting responses:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ighlight=blindI can see with the stick welder, but not mig or very low amperage tig.  Turned out to be correctable vision problems due to my age.But definitely try another helmet too. Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:New helmet and reposition your head "around" the mig gun, in order to see the puddle.  I also have an "old school" helmet that is NOT an auto daring type.  I just move my head around the nozzle, in order to view the puddle.  If you can't see the puddle, either your noggin is in the way or your helmet is blinding you.  Get a new one.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Thanks for all the replies and thanks for the link MinnesotaDave, some good reading. I will head over to the welding shop tomorrow and talk to them about a new hood. My CigWeld is all pitted and scratched,  I will see if by chance they have any new glass that will fit it. I suppose I will find each is different.I am 55, when I did the mig last I was 40. I suppose this could be a part of the problem. My no lines are progressive and have transitions lenses in them. In Dave’s link it was mentioned this is counterproductive. I will just have to keep trying things as I certainly don't want to give up. If anyone has any other suggestions I would appreciate hearing them.              WS
Reply:You don't have to spend a fortune on a new hood. The optics on my large window, "old school", fixed shade Jackson are every bit as good as my $300 Miller. You can usually pick up a decent fixed shade hood cheap. If nothing else it's always good to have a backup that doesn't need batteries..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWYou don't have to spend a fortune on a new hood. The optics on my large window, "old school", fixed shade Jackson are every bit as good as my $300 Miller. You can usually pick up a decent fixed shade hood cheap. If nothing else it's always good to have a backup that doesn't need batteries.
Reply:Could you have back lighting interfering with you ability to view the welding puddle?  When the lens changes state and goes dark, the back lighting become very reflective and the lens looks black, that was happening to me when I started out. Where I find the auto darkening hoods the best performer is when you start and stop or move to another location and when welding sheet metal. Those type of instances runs circles around the fixed shaded hoods . As to batteries the hood I have the batteries lasted 5 years and can be purchased at Wall-mart so they are very easy to find.GregMagazines have issues, everything else has problems
Reply:In the last few years I've begun having similar problems. These old eyes (71 yrs) don't work like they used to anymore. I've tried many things, but here is what I'm doing now. I bought a Miller Digital Elite hood, added a cheater lens, and still I sometimes can't see where to weld. When this happens and I'm welding steel I now draw a soap stone line along or next to the weld location so I can follow it. The soap stone burns off just ahead of the puddle and doesn't affect the weld. If I'm welding aluminum I usually have less problems, but  sometimes I still need a line to follow and use a Sharpie black marker pen. It also burns off just ahead of the puddle, but if any is remaining after the welding it can be easily removed from the parts with alcohol or acetone. When choosing a cheater lens it will be necessary to find one that puts the weld into focus at the position that you normally hold your head when welding. I found that drug store glasses can be used to help  find out which magnification is best for you and then a cheater lens.of that magnification can be bought. The glass cheater lenses work best and last the longest, if you can find them, but all will eventually need replacing when they get hazy or scratched. I have welded using drug store glasses under the hood, but found that the cheater lens in the hood works best for me. I did not do well with varilens or bifocals under the hood. If you are welding in a brightly lit area or out in the sunlight you may need to put something over your heat to prevent light from entering the hood. I've made a black leather piece with snaps to attach to my hood which hangs down behind my head to block the light. I don't use it much because it gets so hot in there when using it, but sometimes it is very necessary.CharleyLast edited by CharleyL; 03-31-2013 at 08:40 AM.Miller MM252Miller Bobcat 225NTMiller DialArc HF / DIY Cooler2 Victor O/A TorchsetsMilwaukee 8" Metal SawMilwaukee Dry Cut "Chop" Saw 5 Ton Wallace Gantry Various Grinders, Benders, etc.
Reply:Hello all, I've been in the optical industry for 14yrs now & like stated here & link about, age, colors in lenses, & surround light effects how we see, also some health conditions. Depending on your life style our eyes start to fade around late 30's or even later on some folks. This reasoning is due to the lens portion in our eye's wearing out almost like how our skin begins to wrinkle or stretch. So when this occurs we loss acommadation ( the lens that used to contract to allow us to see arms length or closer now doesn't work like it use to) so therefore bifocals are now needed in some cases or just a refreshed Rx.Lens color choices also help us see beter in some cases. I haven't came across these AO or gold lenses but could see there benefits as in the same cases as shooting sports loving yellow lenses.  I personally am having trouble in some cases seeing the puddle but then again I'm still in training but go back & forth using glasses & not. I'm only 32 but the again I deal w/those damn little screws putting the lenses in the frames everyday so I'm sure my no line progressives or computer (arms lenghts or custom) glasses might come sooner than most. Work distance is important in a lot of cases so having a custom pair of work glasses is sometimes a must like DSW said. To see clearly guys, check yearly! It's not just for vision purposes its also helps in detection of others underlining health concerns cought early.I make eyeglasses by Day  N let the sparks fly at Night...Miller digital eliteDiversion 165Millermatic 211 w/spool gunSpectrum 375Buildpro 1/2 table w/fixtures08 F250 Powerstroke
Reply:Originally Posted by Whopper StopperThanks for all the replies and thanks for the link MinnesotaDave, some good reading. I will head over to the welding shop tomorrow and talk to them about a new hood. My CigWeld is all pitted and scratched,  I will see if by chance they have any new glass that will fit it. I suppose I will find each is different.I am 55, when I did the mig last I was 40. I suppose this could be a part of the problem. My no lines are progressive and have transitions lenses in them. In Dave’s link it was mentioned this is counterproductive. I will just have to keep trying things as I certainly don't want to give up. If anyone has any other suggestions I would appreciate hearing them.              WS
Reply:Well, I gave up for the day. I tried a few different things and so far nothing has worked. I had an old pair of drug store cheaters and I couldn’t say as there was any noticeable difference. I also had a pair of prescription safety glasses that have no bifocal in them. I used these for shooting with a scope and again they didn’t cure the problem. I had an old helmet with a good non pitted shade in it. I cleaned it up and gave that a try. The lens in it was an 11. I could see the metal pretty good before I hit the trigger. One problem I had with this helmet was that upon arcing, it took a while for my eyes to adjust to the sudden blast of light intensity. Usually 3-4 seconds. I am using Argon co2 mix and solid wire, so I am trying to push the puddle. The best beads I made came when I pulled the gun. Just seemed I could see better. The only other form of success came when I would start and stop my welds every couple of seconds. With the blinding flash gone the red metal would help throw enough light so I was able to continue on in a straight line. It definitely worked better that a continuous weld.I will try again tomorrow. Thanks for all the help and tips!           WS
Reply:Originally Posted by Whopper StopperI had an old helmet with a good non pitted shade in it. I cleaned it up and gave that a try. The lens in it was an 11. I could see the metal pretty good before I hit the trigger. One problem I had with this helmet was that upon arcing, it took a while for my eyes to adjust to the sudden blast of light intensity. Usually 3-4 seconds.
Reply:Doc is right the cheaters are not quality lenses. Some can where them & some cant, It's all numbers equaling to more or less (+/-) to get the image clear. Wait till your new glasses come in & try then, if troubles still exist the hood may be a problem? Progressive (no-line) lenses are great b/c it has 3 focal lengths in the lens vs a bi-focal (w/line) only has 2 focal lengths. Good luckI make eyeglasses by Day  N let the sparks fly at Night...Miller digital eliteDiversion 165Millermatic 211 w/spool gunSpectrum 375Buildpro 1/2 table w/fixtures08 F250 Powerstroke
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWA good bit of this doesn't make sense to me. With a fixed shade 11 hood down, I can't see the material at all under average light conditions. It's only after I strike the arc that I can see anything. The only shades I can truly "see" thru when down, are all shade 3-5 lenses primarily for OA welding and cutting.  The sudden blast of light also doesn't make sense in some ways. The only issue I'd had with a "sudden blast of light", is when welding in the booths at the other tech school. The close quarters and glossy white paint, meant I'd get a ton of reflected light in the back of the hood. In some ways "blinding flash" almost makes me want to have you go darker on the hood shade. In several cases I've found a good bit of the issue is that the brightness of the arc is blinding the student. They say they can't see, and want to go lighter, when in fact it's the lighter shade hood that is the issue. They need to do darker, to block more light, so the arc doesn't overwhelm everything else..
Reply:If you can see through it without welding and you have spots after welding the shade is too light.I'd suggest getting a new lens - they are only $4 to $6.Try a #9 and a #10 since you are using a mig at fairly low amperages.Hope that helpsDave J.Last edited by MinnesotaDave; 03-31-2013 at 07:56 PM.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:By the way - what part of MN are you in?  Welcome to come to my shop and figure your way through new stuff.  Troubleshooting on your own can be frustrating. Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveBy the way - what part of MN are you in?  Welcome to come to my shop and figure your way through new stuff.  Troubleshooting on your own can be frustrating. Dave J.
Reply:If you have any old frames, get some computer lens made for them and you will be a lot happier in the shop. They are set for the working distance you usually use in the shop for just about everything. When I need to read is back to the trifocals and then back to computer glasses for welding etc. A set of lens's should cost $50 or so for just the lens fitted into your frames. Do get the UV and scratch guard as that's something worth the extra $10 or $20 that they cost.
Reply:Well, an update on my problem. This morning I went into Northern Tool and decided to start from scratch. Being my old helmet was over 15 years old I wanted to rule out any problems with it. I didn’t go overboard just in case and bought one of their $70 self-darkening hoods. The one I bought had 34 reviews with each being 5 out of 5 stars. It has the grind feature which I found to be something I should have had long ago. Only once I forgot to flip the switch before returning to welding. I doubt if that will happen again.I came home set up the helmet and took some 1/8”- 1”x2” tube and put it on the table. I turned on the 211 and touched of an arc. What a beautiful thing! Evidently all my trouble was with my old hood. I could see everything perfectly, the metal, the wire and yes the puddle. I spent the next hour and a half digging through my junk and running beads.In hind sight, the only thing I wished now is that I had bought a new helmet when I bought the MIG the other day. I could have turned my 5% into a 15% rebate. Regardless I can’t thank you people enough for all the tips and comments. I had made a list and was fully prepared to go down it trying to figure out my problem. Now I can get on with enjoying the Miller. I enjoy the forum and following the adventures of all the posters. The archives have provided me with a wealth of information along with hours of enjoyable reading. Take care and thanks again!             WS
Reply:I am glad you got it figured out and hope you like the new 211 Some people have tried putting a light on there helmet to shine onto your work piece, also there is a company that makes a light that clips onto the Mig gun.  I struggle with these same issues as I am over 50 myself, I sometimes set a light up to shine on the work to help see.As far as glasses go I also were transition bi focal s  but you really cant use the bifocal in your glasses unless you have them at the top of the lens or are wearing a large view helmet, and forget welding overhead if your looking through the bottom of your glasses The best I have found is to not wear my glasses but that leads to not being able to see when doing anything with the hood up,My compromise is my glasses on and a cheater lens in my helmet but it is a compromise Good luck with the 211 I think you will really like it
Reply:Thank god you figured it out! I was pulling for you. I got a 211 a couple weeks ago too. I'm 32 and without my glasses I can't read my alarm clock that is a foot away. Murky jean pool got me my eyes not age.(Home)Miller Maxstar 152 (sold)MM211/spool gunLincoln AC 225C(Work)Dynasty 350Powcon 300STLincoln SP-175TWeldlodgic AWS150sWeldlodgic AWS300Custom Resistance seam weldersCambridge Vacuum EB weldersI smell something burning.
Reply:On a bright sunny day with the weld area in the sun, you should be able to see the steel prior to striking an arc if you're using a #10 shade.  And you can still make out the weld path ahead of the arc under these conditionsThe problem comes when the area is in shade, or you're working in the dark or under poor lighting conditions.The moral of the story here............................ALWAYS WELD IN BRIGHT SUNLIGHT WITH THE SUN JUST SLIGHTLY OFF TO THE LEFT OF YOUR SHOULDER "Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/