This one isnt hacked!!

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Hey guys!!Well, a little while back I discovered that I can make these fence unrollers and sell them to the local hobby farmers, and so Ive completed three in the past and now this one too. I made one kind of like it a month or two ago, but I cut something wrong and welded it solid, and the top beam was offset a couple inches from where it should have been, and the whole thing looked crooked. It was a real nooby mistake and one that I should have caught, but I didnt. Oh well, lesson learned and it still sold So anyway, I got the opportunity to pick up another 3" I-beam pretty cheap and so I went for it, and made the 4th fence unroller with it. I really wanted to improve on what the last one was, since I effed that one up, and Im pretty happy with the way this one turned out. I capped the ends of the tube with some 3/16" diamond tread that I had laying around, and even added a pair of triangle gussets. I like it...I really appreciate any constructive criticism, and I hope yall enjoy the pics, and the two movies. [Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3ipyWZID7E[/ame][ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOE4VcgcU70[/ame]How should I improve on my 7018 Vertical up stringers? Im using Hobart 7018, which isnt nearly as good as the excalibur stuff we have at school, atleast out of position. Have a good one, everyone!![Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:Nice job Lanse!Let's see it in action: Video #3.
Reply:very nice fab !     i always like watchin ur   videos   .      i can always  learn  something  new   from  another persons   perspective  and skill . .        oh and    ur stick welding   looks awesome   compared  to mine .Last edited by Thiel-Metal-Fab; 08-28-2011 at 06:46 PM.>Innovations are what i leave behind for History
Reply:Top left corner of that diamond cap looks like it got missed. I can see water getting in and freezing around me. Also looks like you still have some work to do on your welds as I see alot of undercut along the sides of the welds.I have mixed feelings about the material conditions I see. I understand that used/rusty material helps keep costs down and helps thing like this sell, and often farmers and all are not too picky about looks vs function. On the other hand the poor surface condition makes these look a bit "hacked" to me. You will find that often people forget about the cheap price as soon as they get it. All they remember in the long run is the look and the quality of the work. Work that looks like this doesn't say "quality" in my book. The 1st thing I noticed about the unit was all the pitting and rough surface on the lower disk.Just something to keep in mind in the long run. You will get more work overall doing a top quality job than you will by giving everyone the lowest price possible. It's a fine line to walk between pricing yourself out of the work, and having a quality product that will sell other work in the future. I get more than 95% of my new work either because my customers refer friends to me because of the work I've done for them in the past, or because the new customer sees the quality of work I've done for others..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I'd use it... could be better looking with the good advice  of DSW.  Keep up the good work in a positive direction.  Why is your younger kid brother in the pics?  enjoyLincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:you know, now i'm pissed at that farmer i use to work for when i was a kid, that sob made me and my buddy hand roll fence..tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:Plus 1 on everything DSW said.  If you could use new (or at least better quality used steel) it would help you get a better price.  Attention to detail will go a long ways toward the best product possible.  This means parts lined up properly, consistent size parts (gussets, etc.), top notch welds, no slag left on product, no under cut, no missed welds, no arc strikes and fill all craters.  Also, you need to pay attention to the orientation of your welds.  The crater at the end of a gusset can act as a stress raiser and lead to failure at that point.Another thing to consider is the strength of your designs.  Don't "cut" corners and try to get everything done on the cheap.  If a part needs to be made of a heavier piece of steel, do it!  A farmer is not going to baby any equipment.  It's designed to do a certain job and they expect it to do it without any trouble.  Most people will give a good opinion if a product performs well,  everyone will give their opinion of a piece of junk that didn't work well.  And they will generally tell twice as many people, also!Try to do all of your welding in position.  Lay it down, turn it over, roll it, what ever it takes to make it so as many of your welds are in the flat position as possible.  Make and use jigs.  Once you get a design that works well, make as many fixtures as you can to align parts and make your setups easy and quick.  Standardize your designs to the extent possible.  That way only minor changes are necessary to build for different brands of tractors, for example.Cut parts in batches.  It's quicker and easier to make parts for ten fence unrollers at a time than it is to constantly switch around making one off parts.  Find the most economical layout to cut your parts, whether its sheet steel or angle iron.  The goal is to have the smallest scrap pile possible.  This applies to what ever you build.Last, but not least.  Continue to wear your PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) whenever you are working.  That is the most important step you can take to ensuring your good health and a long life.You seem to be a motivated and fairly level headed young man.  Watch, listen and ask questions.  Ask for feedback on your designs.  Use your head for something besides driving nails and you can have a very successful welding career.  Always remember, the only limitations in Life are the ones that you allow.  Good luck and be safe, Bob."The man of great wealth owes a peculiar obligation to the State, because he derives special advantages from the mere existence of government."  Teddy RooseveltAmerican by birth, Union by choice!  Boilermakers # 60America is a Union.
Reply:Great idea. Keep up the work and keep the pictures coming.We are on our way to being farmers! Our site is always under construction so check back often for updates.  http://www.philosophyfarmstyle.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by joedirt1966Nice job Lanse!Let's see it in action: Video #3.
Reply:While a agree with DSW 100%, I do understand your point and have done the same when in bind.  I always ask the customer do you want new steel or salvaged steel.  I often point out it is only looks as all the steel will be of sufficient grade to handle the job.As for the welds... Your flat welds look good, your vertical up needs work.  they look cold and you appear to be long arcing.  Be sure to clean all your welds well and knock off all bb's.  As for the raw cuts be sure to grind all raw torch cuts and if you have cut a circle, be sure it is a circle.  Attention to these types of details will take you far.  You will find what separates good welders from great welders is the attention to detail.I helped another welder who was down on his health for a while keep his customer base.  He custom built equipment for similar to what you are doing.  He kept a photo album and sold his implements before he built them.  I realize that may not be doable at all times but he seemed to work it out.  He could built most all the basic implements in about 2 days.  He would cut and fit day one and then weld and paint on the second.  He delivered on the third or forth day.  If they wanted to come and pick it up they cold.  they put a material deposit down so the sales were almost always final.  He had a satisfaction clause of some sort, but most never blinked once they had their toy/tool.  He used new steel only.For what you are doing, you could have the picture of your implement and then the breakdown of price levels.  Price ranges instead of actual prices due to reclaimed steel takes longer to make usable than new steel.  You have to look for it, also you have to clean it up, and it detracts from the norm of fit up.  your jigs can be used from implement to implement if you material stays the same.  everything changes when your material is never the same dimensions.I love the can do attitude and the teachable disposition.Last edited by Scott Young; 08-29-2011 at 06:23 PM.
Reply:I like what you are doing Lanse, but here are some suggestions from a welder and a farmer. I have rolled and unrolled over 2,000 acres of fencing. I moved towns and moved the cow pasture a few times so it is not 2,000 aces, more like 350 acres moved too many times. I wish I would have had one of your unrollers.Anyways, stay with the "cheap" steel. Farmers won't care about the condition AS LONG AS it does not look like it will fall apart. Everyone is right about the welds, they do want them to be strong as they will be putting it to the test with every usage. The farmers who want the good steel already have their own preferred welders and will only use you for the idea.  As for construction, I would get rid of the 3/4" round stock for the center. Personally, that looks cheap, and that would turn me off from purchasing it. Instead change it out with a 1 1/4" or 1 1/2"  sch 40 pipe. It will not cost you any more money, but it will give a much stronger look and will hold up when the fence gets tangled around itself. Pipe is the cheapest shape you can get. The gussets look good, but if you weld it, it needs to be done right. The caps should be welded solid. As stated before, it is always easier to make 10 gussets at a time rather then each one. Plus you will get better doing each one and your 5th one and on will come out nice. Welding: When you were welding the plate to the tube, you were holding the rod at a very low angle. Instead you should hold it at a 85*, and a 10* drag angle. You looked like you were holding it at 70* and a 70* drag angle. As for your verticals, you are middle welding (as you would do with 6010), and not holding your edges, and a little cold. Instead, I would 6010 tack it and lay it down to 7018 flat/horizontal weld it. You will in turn save money by using the most of the rod. But you will lose on the practice.But overall, I like it.Also, I would like to see it in use.Last edited by Country Metals; 08-29-2011 at 08:48 PM.
Reply:Thank you, CM!! I appreciate it. I actually plan on cutting a bigger hole and using some second hand pipe, because that rod is the weakest link on the thing. And because my plasma cutter will be arriveing soon, so nothing made of metal is safe I know that I need to work on my uphill stringers with 7018, I can make a pretty good weave with a 6010 first pass and then two of 7018, but just going uphill with 7018 in a straight line is something I have yet to "get". Do you have any advice?[Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:I wish I would have gotten this tip when I was in welding school, but I would go down to 3/32" 7018. The smaller rod will enable you to run slower and have more control. And will give you time to actually see what the puddle is doing before you have to move it so your feet don't get holes in them. Once you master 3/32, then 1/8" won't be as hard but you will have to move faster.You have to move edge to edge like you do on a normal second + pass weave with 7018. The problem with it is an 1/8" rod has too much steel in it to allow you to flow your edges when just learning.Last edited by Country Metals; 08-29-2011 at 09:29 PM.
Reply:I think the critcism here has been constructive and you have gotten some good advice. Looks to me like you are making good progress, both in your design and in your welding/fabrication skills."The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25
Reply:Manse, when running your root pass vertically make sure that your electrode is very close to the base metal. Also this is the one position that you can use a push angle because the molten metal and slag are staying behind the electrode as you go. The tighter you keep that arc the better off you will be. Good luck,Marc.
Reply:Sorry, my phone auto-corrected your name. Lanse, lanse, lanse, lanse, lanse.All betterGOOD LUCK!
Reply:yes, you should practice overhead and out of position welding. however, I don't see why you needed to do them on a project this size. I like the idea, and the gumption behind it. but like many have already said. farmers aren't going to care how it looks, just so long as it works. Welding in position will help it work. and the effort needed to get something that size into position is minimal.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Looks good dude. How much does that thing weigh?Go Cards!!!!!
Reply:More than him would be my guess.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:If he drank a bottle of strawberry pop and stood on his head, he would make a damm good thermometer!  Just having fun Lanse, nothing serious.  I USED to look like that!"The man of great wealth owes a peculiar obligation to the State, because he derives special advantages from the mere existence of government."  Teddy RooseveltAmerican by birth, Union by choice!  Boilermakers # 60America is a Union.