Help me figure out what the F@#! im doing.

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Hey guys, heres the deal: I got a dynasty last week ( Click here to see it ).  Let me start by saying this, the first time i ever really tig welded was this morning when i got her up and running for the first time. It took me a little knob twisting to get some nice arcs going but i did it and steel went smoothly i got my beads looking decent in short time but they still need about 10,000 hours of practice before ill be slightly happy. Aluminum was a nightmare.Here are my questions:1. HF Start doesnt seem to work, i always need to give the metal a quick tap to get an arc rolling. Do i have to set it up in a specific way or is it malfunctioning? (i know the earlier dynastys have issues with the HF start)- Pic of the front panel below.2. What is the best tungsten for AC alum on a  inverter machine, I have been using green and im about to kill someone. I do alright laying beads on flat plate but i cant tack 2 pieces together to save my life. 3. What is exactly is crater? and how  i adjust it? and why do i choose between start off or crater?Do you guys have any other tips/pointers to help improve my skills. I have read a considerable amount about tig and what to do with your hands, selecting amperage (seems simular to stick) and etc...I just really want to make sure i understand as much as possible about setting up the machine the best way to hold a stable and concentrated arc. I am in college and have plenty of time off from class so ill be practicing as much as possible.Miller Dynasty 300 DXMiller CST280Miller Maxstar 150 STH
Reply:Jees mate, I started with my meco aviator this morning and next thing I know I'm welding up the neighbours ride on mower engine mount.Maybe too complicated, I like the KIS principle!!Peter
Reply:Originally Posted by SilveradoHey guys, heres the deal: I got a dynasty last week ( Click here to see it ).  Let me start by saying this, the first time i ever really tig welded was this morning when i got her up and running for the first time. It took me a little knob twisting to get some nice arcs going but i did it and steel went smoothly i got my beads looking decent in short time but they still need about 10,000 hours of practice before ill be slightly happy. Aluminum was a nightmare.Here are my questions:1. HF Start doesnt seem to work, i always need to give the metal a quick tap to get an arc rolling. Do i have to set it up in a specific way or is it malfunctioning? (i know the earlier dynastys have issues with the HF start)- Pic of the front panel below.2. What is the best tungsten for AC alum on a  inverter machine, I have been using green and im about to kill someone. I do alright laying beads on flat plate but i cant tack 2 pieces together to save my life. 3. What is exactly is crater? and how  i adjust it? and why do i choose between start off or crater?Do you guys have any other tips/pointers to help improve my skills. I have read a considerable amount about tig and what to do with your hands, selecting amperage (seems simular to stick) and etc...I just really want to make sure i understand as much as possible about setting up the machine the best way to hold a stable and concentrated arc. I am in college and have plenty of time off from class so ill be practicing as much as possible.
Reply:Originally Posted by SilveradoLet me start by saying this, the first time i ever really tig welded was this morning when i got her up and running for the first time. It took me a little knob twisting to get some nice arcs going but i did it and steel went smoothly i got my beads looking decent in short time but they still need about 10,000 hours of practice before ill be slightly happy. Aluminum was a nightmare.
Reply:You need to turn the knob thats above output to HF start NOT lift arc. That will give you your high freq. start.
Reply:Originally Posted by SilveradoHey guys, heres the deal: I got a dynasty last week ( Click here to see it ).  Let me start by saying this, the first time i ever really tig welded was this morning when i got her up and running for the first time. It took me a little knob twisting to get some nice arcs going but i did it and steel went smoothly i got my beads looking decent in short time but they still need about 10,000 hours of practice before ill be slightly happy. Aluminum was a nightmare.Here are my questions:1. HF Start doesnt seem to work, i always need to give the metal a quick tap to get an arc rolling. Do i have to set it up in a specific way or is it malfunctioning? (i know the earlier dynastys have issues with the HF start)- Pic of the front panel below.2. What is the best tungsten for AC alum on a  inverter machine, I have been using green and im about to kill someone. I do alright laying beads on flat plate but i cant tack 2 pieces together to save my life. 3. What is exactly is crater? and how  i adjust it? and why do i choose between start off or crater?Do you guys have any other tips/pointers to help improve my skills. I have read a considerable amount about tig and what to do with your hands, selecting amperage (seems simular to stick) and etc...I just really want to make sure i understand as much as possible about setting up the machine the best way to hold a stable and concentrated arc. I am in college and have plenty of time off from class so ill be practicing as much as possible.
Reply:If you have a foot pedal, you can turn the start/crater functions off and use the pedal to slowly ramp down the power at the end, while dipping the filler rod, to fill in the end crater.  On aluminum, you may find it helpful to turn on the start feature and turn up the start power control, as this is a hot-start, meaning it helps you get the puddle going quicker when the metal is still cold.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:It's pretty much all been noted, but the most glaring problems I see are:1) The Process Switch is in the Tig Section, but it needs to be changed from DC(-) to AC.2) The Output Switch needs to be changed from "Lift Arc On" to HF Remote.I set the post flow, and use the pedal for the rest.Later,Jason
Reply:I didn't see it mentioned.... you can use the 2% like said, but not pure, which is green. I never have but have been told the machine will spit it out, ruin it, etc. I like ceriated or lanthinated much more than thoriated myself. Check for spelling on those, but you get the point lol
Reply:Go to http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...oard/index.phpClick on resources, Manuals and Download the manual for your machine by entering the Code so you get the correct manual for the year of your Dynasty.Download the Tig Handbookhttp://www.millerwelds.com/resources/TIGhandbook/READ IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!More Tig Infohttp://www.millerwelds.com/resources...-guide-graphicEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:I wish Miller would go back to using those knobs....one glance and you can see just how everything is set....all the way across the shop!!!!Miller Dynasty 700Miller 350P with Aluma-pro push-pullMiller 280 Dynasty with expansion card Dynasty 200 DXMigMax 215 Enuff power and hand tools to create one of anything..... but mass produce nothing!!!
Reply:Does that model/year dynasty have autolink meaning will it run on 110,230 etc..?Ya gotta spend money to make money!
Reply:I appreciate all of the input guys, i just wanted to get some feedback on your prefered settings since i know so little. I got the manual the day i bought the welder and i have checked out the tig help material on the miller site. ( I probabaly should have titled the thread "Dynasty Help" or something )As for my aluminum issue i tried out some gold (lathinated?) electrodes and it made a world of difference. I can lay a nice bead on a flat piece of aluminum but when i try to tack 2 pieces together with no filler i just cant seem to get it. Also theese electrodes dont split like the green ones were.  Originally Posted by welderShaneDoes that model/year dynasty have autolink meaning will it run on 110,230 etc..?
Reply:Originally Posted by Silverado I can lay a nice bead on a flat piece of aluminum but when i try to tack 2 pieces together with no filler i just cant seem to get it.
Reply:Originally Posted by SilveradoI appreciate all of the input guys, i just wanted to get some feedback on your prefered settings since i know so little. I got the manual the day i bought the welder and i have checked out the tig help material on the miller site. ( I probabaly should have titled the thread "Dynasty Help" or something )
Reply:Originally Posted by SilveradoAs for my aluminum issue i tried out some gold (lathinated?) electrodes and it made a world of difference. I can lay a nice bead on a flat piece of aluminum but when i try to tack 2 pieces together with no filler i just cant seem to get it. Also theese electrodes dont split like the green ones were.
Reply:Originally Posted by SilveradoI can lay a nice bead on a flat piece of aluminum but when i try to tack 2 pieces together with no filler i just cant seem to get it. Also theese electrodes dont split like the green ones were.