Another option for cutting steel

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I've always hated cordless tools, since their cost is high and their life expectancy is so short.  But a few weeks back, I got drawn in by Ridgid's Lifetime Service Agreement, where they agree to replace batteries that fail -- for as long as you own the tool -- when you buy the battery bundled with one of their tools.  I think their drills and impact drivers are pretty good, and now I don't have to worry that every time I'm charging the battery I'm eating up another precious cycle.In fact, I liked them so much that I also picked up Ridgid's cordless circular saw on Ebay for $19.  The idea wasn't that I wanted to cut 4x8s away from any electrical outlets, but that the thing might be useful for cutting steel -- since it spins at only 2,500 rpm.  I got a pair of Freud Diablo metal-cutting blades for $29 a piece, and figured I'd give it a try and see if it would have the torque to cut mild steel. (Worst case scenario: I'd use the 6-1/2" blades on my 7-1/4" corded circular saw and throw away the cordless circular unit.)Here's a video with my first two cuts.  It looks like it will work pretty well.  I have no idea what the battery life will be like with steel cutting, but the blades are rated for 11,000 rpm, so I think the lower tooth temperatures of 2,500 rpm might mean a decent lifespan for them.  We'll see.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Do keep us informed! Nice ideaMiller diversion 165Miller mig 211Hypertherm pm 30Milwaukee 6230 14 inch chop sawMd 45 mag drill (RIP; fell on its head)New MD 45! Thanks to the esposa!Finally got an O/A setup
Reply:Nice!  I may look into that as well.  Could come in handy when the generator or an outlet are not available.  Thanks for posting the vid!
Reply:Ps, clean your shop! LolMiller diversion 165Miller mig 211Hypertherm pm 30Milwaukee 6230 14 inch chop sawMd 45 mag drill (RIP; fell on its head)New MD 45! Thanks to the esposa!Finally got an O/A setup
Reply:I do the same all the time, battery life is generally 10-15 minutes cutting time on 1/8th ALDynasty 200DXPassport plus w/ spoolmate 100victor 315c oxy/(act and prop)Miller digital elitemilwaukee power tools
Reply:Great idea...I've been wanting to do that for cutting aluminum.  I like the smaller blade size of these saws, since I would be cutting thinner stuff.  Still not sure i can get past the battery pack issues.  I've been thinking of a way to turn a cordless saw into a corded saw...some sort of adapter which uses the shell of the battery pack.KevKevin / Machine_Punk from The Aerodrome Studio - Lincoln PowerMIG 210 MP - Meco N Midget w/custom welding station - Vintage Victor 100Current Projects: The Aerodrome Studio
Reply:Great post. never thought about cordless...
Reply:I bought one of those blades a few weeks ago, thought I was going to build a 10 to 15 gallon hydraulic tank out of 12-GA. Thought I give it a try to make the long rips. Change of plans made the tank out of some 14-inch pipe. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack Olsensnip....Here's a video with my first two cuts.  It looks like it will work pretty well.  I have no idea what the battery life will be like with steel cutting, but the blades are rated for 11,000 rpm, so I think the lower tooth temperatures of 2,500 rpm might mean a decent lifespan for them.  We'll see.
Reply:Thanks, guys.shortfuse, I use Freud's 7-1/4" blades on a corded circular saw all the time.  The idea with this wasn't to replace that, but to have something I could climb a ladder somewhere and not have to worry about the heavier weight of a full circular/worm saw and also not to have to worry about a cord.  I've got a steel pergola in the planning stages right now, and this struck me as a way I might be able to fix a 24'-high mistake more easily than with a corded tool.  So it's really just an added convenience -- not a replacement for what I've already got.  I can't really see any compelling reasons to use it in the garage.  Although, who knows?Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenThanks, guys.shortfuse, I use Freud's 7-1/4" blades on a corded circular saw all the time.  The idea with this wasn't to replace that, but to have something I could climb a ladder somewhere and not have to worry about the heavier weight of a full circular/worm saw and also not to have to worry about a cord.  I've got a steel pergola in the planning stages right now, and this struck me as a way I might be able to fix a 24'-high mistake more easily than with a corded tool.  So it's really just an added convenience -- not a replacement for what I've already got.  I can't really see any compelling reasons to use it in the garage.  Although, who knows?
Reply:Yeah, will that puppy cut 1/4" plate?Check out the Diablo video:http://www.diablotools.com/videos/St...sawblades.htmlLast edited by Ruark; 11-04-2012 at 10:25 PM.-RuarkLincoln 3200HDHobart Stickmate LX235TWECO Fabricator 211i
Reply:Rage makes a 7 1/4" chop saw for cheapDynasty 200DXPassport plus w/ spoolmate 100victor 315c oxy/(act and prop)Miller digital elitemilwaukee power tools
Reply:don't use the cordless over1/8", I have cut 1" with cordedDynasty 200DXPassport plus w/ spoolmate 100victor 315c oxy/(act and prop)Miller digital elitemilwaukee power tools
Reply:Originally Posted by turkRage makes a 7 1/4" chop saw for cheap
Reply:Originally Posted by turkdon't use the cordless over1/8", I have cut 1" with corded
Reply:Yeah, there's no substitute for a strong circular saw.  I've used both a Skill 77 and a cheap HF 7-1/4" model -- both have worked fine, but I'd go with the Skil if I had a lot of stock to cut.  I think the lifespan of the 7-1/4" blades is somewhat shorter than I see with the full-size 14" blades, but the 7-1/4" blades are running at ~5,000 rpm while the larger blades are running at 1,400.  So my guess is less heat and longer blade life.Ruark's video got me looking at some other Diablo videos.  Now I want to try one of their metal grinding flap discs.  Watch this video, and you might feel the same way.http://www.diablotools.com/videos/Fl...-Grinding.htmlJack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:I have that flap disc, there's something wrong with the video. Maybe no pressure on the solid disc.I use the flap disc to polish, but still use a grinding disc for general grinding.SqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A
Reply:I watched your video. Looks like it cut well. Never would have thought to try a slower spinning cordless with steel. I use my worm drive skilsaw with aluminum all the time using a standard carbide blade. I also have a plate saw for steel. I watched the Freud video. I was intrigued by the tooth geometry. I wonder how that blade would do in my plate saw?
Reply:Do keep us informed! Nice idea
Reply:Sounds like a good idea. Did not know about the battery deal. Please keep us posed on how it works out Jack.
Reply:My local Home Depot has the Diablo 0748F. I'm planning on using it to cut practice coupon strips out of 16ga and 11 ga salvaged steel control panel cabinets.I'll be running it in a skill circular saw that turns 4600 rpm.How long, or how many feet of cut you reckon I'll get out of this $40. blade? ,Last edited by jtcnj; 11-05-2012 at 07:13 AM.Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 and WP17. 75A AC is for pipe thawing!HH 140 - new addtion 9/2012.I didn't agree, but hoped for Hope and Change.I got change for myself and my family: for the worse.This is the reality of: Barackalypse Now. Again.
Reply:Jack,We have a similar DeWalt 18 volt cordless metal saw that we've had for a while, but I've noticed that recently DeWalt seems to have discontinued them. We bought our saw for the same purpose, high level light duty modifications and it does this well. Your saw is likely the Ridgid's equivalent model to our DeWalt so I would expect that you will get similar results with it.Our DeWalt saw does quite well on thin sheet steel and aluminum 1/8" or less. The battery charge life will be shortened if you are making a long steady cut, but will last longer if making many short duration cuts.. On 1/8 steel we can get 6-8 feet of cut per charge with a good blade and under the right conditions using DeWalt's high capacity lithium batteries. Use a clamped in place edge guide and run the saw along it to prevent blade binding and  both the battery and the blade will last a while. Feeding slow enough to keep the blade speed up makes the battery last longer too. We're still on the first blade, but the saw doesn't really get used that much. We have the Milwaukee 8" corded and their 14" miter chop type saws that do most of the metal cutting..CharleyMiller MM252Miller Bobcat 225NTMiller DialArc HF / DIY Cooler2 Victor O/A TorchsetsMilwaukee 8" Metal SawMilwaukee Dry Cut "Chop" Saw 5 Ton Wallace Gantry Various Grinders, Benders, etc.
Reply:Jack, I noticed you cutting with a short sleeve shirt.  Do you not get affected by the sharp bits of material flying off from the cut?  I usually end up wearing my leather welding jacket when I use my worm drive saw and a metal cutting blade.Also, I had seen that video before, but gave up on finding a place that sells the flap discs.  If you find a place, be sure to let us know!Last edited by RhymesWithBob; 11-05-2012 at 09:37 AM.Reason: Flap
Reply:Originally Posted by RhymesWithBobJack, I noticed you cutting with a short sleeve shirt.  Do you not get affected by the sharp bits of material flying off from the cut?  I usually end up wearing my leather welding jacket when I use my worm drive saw and a metal cutting blade.Also, I had seen that video before, but gave up on finding a place that sells the flap discs.  If you find a place, be sure to let us know!Impressive fast grinding...the Diablo flap disk.  Just wonder about the lifetime???  Grinding disks seem to last quite a while, and I would think the flap backing would wear our faster.  Anyone compared the durability/longevity of grinding disk vs. the Diablo flap in the video?
Reply:Originally Posted by BrazinI have that flap disc, there's something wrong with the video. Maybe no pressure on the solid disc.I use the flap disc to polish, but still use a grinding disc for general grinding.
Reply:Don't get me wrong, I have gone though a few handfulls of those flap disks, and I will continue to keep them around.  They do a totally different job than a grinding disk. if I was going to grind a weld flat I'd start with the hard grinding disk because It's going to stay on the high spots only, after the weld is close to level I'd switch to the flap disk to polish the surfaces together. The hard disk will outlast 10 flap disksSqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A
Reply:Along the line of the topic, what blades (nonabrasive) do you prefer in your circular saws?  I was going to use my Milwaukee circular saw with a blade for mild and aluminum.  Any drawbacks for a hobbyist going this route?
Reply:I'm not an authority on this -- but I've always used regular (carbide tipped for hardwood) blades for aluminum and then steel-specific blades for mild steel.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenI'm not an authority on this -- but I've always used regular (carbide tipped for hardwood) blades for aluminum and then steel-specific blades for mild steel.
Reply:Freud blades are (generally) decent stuff.  I like them.The Freud Diablo SteelDemon ferrous-metal cutting blades work and work well (within their limits).I have used a ferrous-metal cuting blade in a 7-1/4 inch circular saw ('sidewinder' at ~5000 rpm as opposed to a worm-drive at a slightly lower rpm).  Worked and worked well on the 1/4 inch plate I was cutting.  The cut edge was straight (I used a straight-edge clamp.  Use one!!)  and the edges were sharp!!  Wear eye and ear protection, and watch out for the hot and sharp chips!!Note that Freud has two slightly different 7-1/4 inch ferrous-metal cutting Diablo blades.  One is a 38-tooth for cutting up to 1/4 inch thick mild steel (D0738F) and one is a 48-tooth for cutting up to 1/8 inch thick mild steel (D0748F).http://www.diablotools.com/blades-7.htmlThey also have a 56-tooth (1/8 inch thick mild steel capacity) and a 70-tooth (18-gauge mild steel capacity) 7-1/4 inch blade.  So RTFM (or label) as to what blade you get and what it is for!!The Diablo 6-1/2 inch ferrous-cutting blade (D0648F) is rated for cutting mild steel up to 1/8 inch thick.http://www.diablotools.com/blades-6.htmlThe nice thing about all those Diablo blades is that they are made to be used in a 'regular' circular saw and not a 'special' low-speed saw.http://www.diablotools.com/blades-ferrous.htmlFreud also has some blades made for the slower-rpm circular saws, so RTFM (or label) and pay attention as to what blade you buy/use!For cutting aluminum with a circular saw, if I were cutting aluminum more than maybe once or twice, I'd go and buy something like the Freud Diablo blade made for cutting aluminum (non-ferrous metal).  In 7-1/4 inch diameter that is the D0756N 56-tooth blade.http://www.diablotools.com/blades-non-ferrous.htmlAlthough you can sometimes use a 'regular' carbide-tipped circular saw blade to cut aluminum, you have to check and verify what tooth grind your existing blade has.  Something like a flat-top tooth grind (as in a wood-cutting rip blade) or an ATB tooth grind (general-purpose or combo blade) will not be as good of a choice for cutting aluminum as a blade with a TCG tooth grind.  It may cut the aluminum, but will dull and wear out much faster than the 'tougher' TCG blade.Cutting metals with a carbide-tipped blade can work OK, but be very aware of clamping the work down well (if using a handheld circular saw) and using a straight-edge guide (so you minimize chances of binding the blade and inducing kickback).  Kickback in wood is bad enough, getting a blade to bind in a piece of metal and then the kickback there could be worse!!Again, use PPE (eyes!!!!! and ears and skin).  And watch out for the hot sharp chips and the sharp freshly-cut metal edges!re: flap discshttp://www.diablotools.com/cutandgrind.htmlFlap discs work well for what they are.  But they do wear out much faster than a hard grinding wheel.  Use the right tool(s) for the job at hand and all that.  I use both as needed for the task at hand.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Moonrise,Lotsa good info on the metal cutting blades!!  Thanks.  Gonna bookmark this.I don't have an abrasive or dry cut metal saw and was contemplating trying out the 7 1/4" blades in my old corded Skil circular saw and this helped a lot in deciding what and how to use them.
Reply:Very good points, Moonrise.  Thanks!Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:I also have the 18 v Dewalt steel saw,,,It works great but hard to see what I'm cutting,I have a Milwaukee 81/4 steel saw that I use most of the time cause it contains the chips best,But also use a ridged worm drive with the steel cutting blade on it,,,,I can see what I'm cutting best with it but rarely use it because of the chips it slings everywhere and co workers always look to see who is making all the racket.Chop saws,torch and plasma rarely come off the shelf these days.
Reply:Months pass.  Then...The little Ridgid saw finally came in handy.  I'm working on a pergola for a back yard deck I built, and had to shorten the structure by a foot.  This meant lifting each cluster of supports (there are 8) and cutting a 12" section out of them, then re-welding the foot of the thing back on.For reference, you can see the exposed section between the fence and the shade fabric on the left in this picture.Here's the way I relieved the stress on each leg.The nice thing about this little 6-1/2" saw is that you can get it into pretty tight spaces.  Here's a leg with the 12" piece removed.I propped each leg up with a piece of wood when I was finished, then lowered each side in steps.  This picture shows one leg shortened and one still long.Here's the job when I finished.  The little saw had only used about half a charge of the battery.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Wow, that is one good looking deck.Lincoln Electric, Power MIG 256Hypertherm Powermax 45 Miller Dynasty 280DXSmith O/A torchGenesis of a welding table
Reply:How do those Diablo blades handle aluminum? If the cut mild steel I imagine they will walk right through aluminum. Is there any reason not to use the one blade for both?
Reply:That turned out awesome. I saw the gate posted on the other site. When we comin over for grand opening ????  Your only about 3,000 miles away.
Reply:Nicely done!  Just curious, why the 12" modification?  Neighbors complain?  Too much wind lift?Did you have a set of plans, or was it job site creativity?  Nice....
Reply:Thanks!AKmud, I'm sure they'd be fine on aluminum.  But then, I just use my old woodworking blades on aluminum -- why spend the extra money?WenValley, there was no plan.  I'm just a hobbyist, and I'm pretty good at getting an idea in my head and refining it as I go along.  With this deck, I wanted to have a top part that didn't feel as flat, heavy and low as most pergolas.  The biggest reason for this was the fact that this little space is completely boxed in by walls.  One more flat surface above, and I thought it would feel like we were inside a box.  The next problem was that I didn't like the way most steel roof structures look so 'utilitarian,' so I went digging for roof designs that were more pretty than they were sturdy.  Mine doesn't have to support any significant weight, and I don't have snow load issues here.  Cathedral arches jumped out at me as a tried-and-tested design that would draw your eyes up.  I thought that would be great for my idea to cover the deck with shade fabric.  In the end, I had to 'flatten' the arch more than I'd like to keep it from being too tall.  If I stuck to the classic dimensions of a Gothic arch, the roof would be about 28' tall.My neighbors have been great.  They haven't complained.  But when I got the shade fabric up, I got a look at the thing from my neighbor's lawn and it just hit me like a bullet that the thing looked like an enormous circus tent from that perspective.  The problem is that only the top half is visible past his garage, and the tiny 1/8-acre lots we live on mean it was just looming over his place.  I made a few changes to the way the edges of the thing worked at that point, but also worked out how much I could lower the thing without it compromising too much from my own perspective.  He's thanked me for the changes -- but never had complained.  He's a nice guy and I don't want to take advantage of that too much.Besides, that stripe of unshaded view on the far wall was bothering me.  So it worked for both of us.  Bringing the roof down the one foot also has had the effect of the place feeling a little wider, oddly.I had 35 mph winds recently, and it was fine with that.  We'll see how it does when the stronger winds come.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenThanks!AKmud, I'm sure they'd be fine on aluminum.  But then, I just use my old woodworking blades on aluminum -- why spend the extra money?