Stainless Grill

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Today I had a total blast.  I had one fire box all tacked together and one half of the pieces cut.I spent yesterday fitting and tacking them so All I had to do is sit on a stool and have at it.   I had mixed results all day.   I am only talking color or lack of shielding.    I started with a #17 air cooled torch with a gas lenz and #12 cup.  I found the smaller (1/16")  tungsten is easier to control.   I tried 10 cfh to 20 cfh with no real difference.  I tried pointing the tungsten forehand and back hand.   Most of the welding was done around 60 ypo 70 amps.  It is really easy to get too hot.No matter which side I kept my toungue, the welds came out good or grey at random.  Most of my left hand welds looked a lot better than ones with my right.  I tried holding the torch close as can be.  Some came out great as in silver or some straw all the way to grey.  I think its shielding.   All are outside corners, no filler groove weld.   Its gotta be the shieldingDavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I tried every thing,   The WP 20 with a #12 gas cone and no gas lenz seemed to work best.  One fire box, 2 ashpans and some parts.   Casters, mounts with gussets, and 2 extra 1/8" mounts to be used as shims in case their floor is not level.  OR my frame twists.........304 stainless, Invertec V350 and Arcmaster 185 both around 70 amps.  308L filler if needed.More next weekReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Ru using a gas lense?If not try a smaller cup.that one looks to be to big.
Reply:Originally Posted by admsweldingRu using a gas lense?If not try a smaller cup.that one looks to be to big.
Reply:Originally Posted by cyclops6Here's a guy with over 6,000 posts and all you can do is offer advice, when all he is after is praise ?
Reply:Fair enough....
Reply:Originally Posted by cyclops6Here's a guy with over 6,000 posts and all you can do is offer advice, when all he is after is praise ?
Reply:big cup is good for outside corners specially on SShere's one of mine with brass backing, with a small gap there's no need for back purging as you can see.it also works with aluminium. Attached Images--------------------------------------------------------------www.becmotors.nlyup, I quit welding.. joined welder anonymous
Reply:been my experience that coloring has more to do with heat than shielding gas.  sugaring, like on the back side of a weld, is from lack of shielding gas, which isnt something that cup size has anything to do with, you need a second source to purge the  back side with.but that doesnt seem to be the case here. lass amperage and slower movement seem to have the most to do with coloring.  i prefer to use more heat, move faster and use a wire brush to control coloring...stainless brush of course..
Reply:Originally Posted by cyclops6Here's a guy with over 6,000 posts and all you can do is offer advice, when all he is after is praise ?
Reply:Bloody yanks, can't live with em, can't shoot em !
Reply:Looks great! I as well have trouble with stainless sometimes. Most of the time I figure out the angle in a certain spot will pull in air and contaminate the weld. Other times I seem to just overheat the material, I always shoot for full penetration over looks.See too much heat.
Reply:Originally Posted by cyclops6Bloody yanks, can't live with em, can't shoot em !