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I side stepped from learning Tig welding to Arc welding to do a few rough jobs where I don't need to waste the argon etc.and would appreciate some constructive and destructive criticism.Have watched a couple of DVDs, done some practice and wouldlike to know how bad I am (at arc welding I mean )and what I should do (other than giving up - which I won't,so don't bother trying to convince me Equipment:Fronius Magicwave 2200 Job used for Arc weldingRod6013 2,5mm (on the pack it says dc -ve or ac 65A - 90A)Parameters usedWelding current: 75A DC -veHot start current 180% of welding currentHot start current time 0.3secArc force dynamic correction = 0(soft low spatter arc)Antistick = onElectrode = con (constant current - for rutile and basic electrodes)Uco = 30 (voltage cutoff - setting voltage lower requiresless lifting to end welding)The picture shows three small pieces of 2,5mm mild steelwhich were left overs from cutting with a plasma/without anypreparation, tacked at ends and welded (had a couple of breaks in the welding - guess the arc lenght may have been too longfor the Uco). This is practice for a few things I need to make from 3mm angle/tubing. Attached ImagesLast edited by vjeko; 01-19-2011 at 12:29 PM.Reason: include picture
Reply:Obviously Fronius has cheated you and sold you a Magic Wave without the magic, or possibly a Chinese version of the magic.As you said, your arc length was probably excessive. 6013 can be run as a "drag" rod, with the coating lightly ridding along on the joint. Also, look at traveling slower, let the puddle develop to a reasonable width and then maintain the arc on the leading edge of the puddle.
Reply:OK thanks, now to find the magic - will post picture when themagic comes
Reply:I just went through you exact situation posted pictures and got tons of great advice. I might not be any better but I sure feel like a much more accomplished welder.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=48197http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=48239http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=48288http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=48344My greatest advice from someone very very new to the game is, Keep it tight and try to stay steady. A second hand on a long electrode after you strike the arc is handy. And working on flat stock with directly improve joint welds.Good luck and keep us updated.
Reply:Much appreciated scot ! Will go through your posts and get back to practice/postthe results. Really appreciate all the feedback from everyone And now to find the magic/confidence.
Reply:Not sure what settings you are using - try electrode positive (work clamp negative). I don't think I've head the term 'DC -ve'. Again, try electrode '+'6013 can be dragged. That means extremely short arc - lightly touching base metal.For practice get a larger (thicker) piece of metal - relatively flat and clean. Ask local steel supplier about 'drops'. Those are the excess pieces after cutting operations. They will get about 10c a pound when they recycle it. If they don't give it to you free, you should still be able to buy it from them by the pound.Draw a line and follow that line left to right, with the rod just slightly leaning in the direction of travel.(assuming you are right handed).Two hands - there are pros that can one hand weld - you and I are not one of those. Two hands with left arm/elbow resting on something (assuming you are right handed). If you don't move the rod in a nice steady pace, you get jumps where the bead turns ropey, skinny, and relatively high (for such a skinny bead).Slow down - the beads should look like circles stacked on top of each other. I see triangles which to me means you are going to fast. (its possible you are holding too long of an arc as well). if you go slower, another benefit is that the slag will be thicker and chip off easier. Note, wear eye protection when chipping. That slag is hot!Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX
Reply:Practice, practice, and more practice.
Reply:OK, will follow all suggestions. con_fuse9, you suggested to try DC +, whereas on the pack of 6013s made here in Croatia it says = - or ~, which means DC current electrode negative or AC current (I see the same thing for 6013s on another pack I have from Air Liquide, Germany). Before I started practicing I confirmed my understanding with technical support here in Croatia - they say you get better results, less spatter etc. with DC - (electrode -) for the 6013s.
Reply:I would try some 6010 or 6011. (I hate 6013.)Good luck.
Reply:Originally Posted by vjekoOK, will follow all suggestions. con_fuse9, you suggested to try DC +, whereas on the pack of 6013s made here in Croatia it says = - or ~, which means DC current electrode negative or AC current (I see the same thing for 6013s on another pack I have from Air Liquide, Germany). Before I started practicing I confirmed my understanding with technical support here in Croatia - they say you get better results, less spatter etc. with DC - (electrode -) for the 6013s.
Reply:I'm back, for the next round of comments.It's very cold outside with the dry northern wind "bura" blowing along the coast. Fortunately, the south side of the house has a shielded terrace where I spent good part of the day practicing, bundled up like a grizzly bear (yes, I spent quite a bit of time and not much to show for it - could just picture someone saying I'd never earn any money that way .) Looks like I didn't take detailed enough notes of pics/machine setup, so excuse me if there is a mistake. To start with, let me repeat the list of setup parameters which I have at my disposal so that you can point out what could be the problem/what could be improved (other than amperage, arc length and speed of movement) :(1)Main current(2)HCU(Hot start current)(3)HTI (hot start current time)(4)Anti stick - I have it ON(5)Electrode = con (constant current - for rutile and basic electrodes)(4)Arc force dynamic correction as you increase the figure, you get a harsher arc/more spatter (not 100% sure what I should be aiming at here I tried to make it as low as possible (low spatter) and no sticking.(5)Uco (voltage cutoff - setting voltage lower requires less lifting to end welding)All welds with 6013 2,5mm electrode DC- (actually found 6013s from 3 manufacturers and tried them all fairly similar but on one the coating seemed to disintegrate faster than the others).After further practicing on thin steel (and having bad results again I took heed of the comments regarding practicing on thicker metal . 5mm thick steel 150mm*250mm , was covered with rust, somewhat pitted 60 flapdisc didn't clean it up , so I went over it with a grinding disc, followed by the 60 flap disc:pictures:5mm_80A_toprow_1.JPG - 5mm_80A_toprow_3.JPGI'm no expert, but I think this is looking a better than the first post . The thick metal removed so many variables from the picture, it was much easier to just practice. Also, as soon as I made a resonable weld, the slag was also much easier to remove. Attached Images
Reply:Next I tried another row but reducing the Uco i.e. how much I need to lift therod to stop weldingUco =20 and 25 resulted in sticking, Uco 30 worked.Main current 80A,HCU 150%, HTI 0,5sec,Dyn 40, Uco 30pictures:5mm_80A_bottomrow_1.JPG-5mm_80A_bottomrow_2.JPG Attached Images
Reply:Next, I became too brave and tried to go back to thin metal2mm thick , 25mm steel flat - big disappointment after playing with differentcurrent settings, all other settings kept constantpictures1. 75A 9Just reduced a bit from what I had for the 5mm steel2. 70A3.I think this was 50A i.e. below the recommended lowest (65A for the 2,5mm 6013)4.can't remember5.55A Attached ImagesLast edited by vjeko; 01-22-2011 at 04:08 PM.Reason: more info
Reply:Next I took a piece of 3mm thick, 20mm wide L profile (the material I will be working first my first small projects)you can see pictures of both the weld and the underside. Attached Images
Reply:And finally 3mm thick square tube 20mm wide Attached Images
Reply:Would appreciate comments/suggestions and answers to the following:(a)On the package for the 6013 2,5mm rods the amperage is listed between 65A and 90A. As you can see, I used an even lower amperage on the 2mm steel, thinking that could help me is it OK to go below the recommended /when?(b)What do I need to do to get the welds on the thinner material (2mm and 3mm in order ?(c) Flap wheels which grade do you use looks like 60 is still too fine for something which is rusty (from experience , what works best start with grinding wheel on very rusty surfaces or go directly to rough flaps ?(d)Im starting to get a feel for what the weld should look like what about the surface on the backside of the weld and area of steel which was welded ? I have seen welds which were red hot, back of metal being deformed, metal swollen etc(e)Any further advice on use of the settings "Arc force dynamic correction" -(don't quite understand when you want the harsher arc) AND "Uco"
Reply:Try laying longer, straighter beads on flat pieces for starts. Those are just large tack welds to me.The heat isnt your biggest problem, just lay beads and pay attention to which is the slag pool cooling, and what is the actual weld pool, then you can adjust speed, and determine if your heat range is good.The slag really should peel up as your welding, and you should see no porosity in said weld.Lincoln Power MIG 210 MP ( boat anchor )Lincoln Weld-Pac 100 HDHobart IronMan 230Cutmaster 42Jackson NexGenSumner Ultra ClampsDWM120
Reply:THIS IS WHAT IS WRONG.....You need to be welding a joint.NOT just on the edges or middle of a FLAT plate.Get two pieces of metal like 1/8 inch thick and lightly bevel the mating edges.NEXT tack weld the (coupons) at each end.THEN make your weld right down that V groove.THAT is how you practice and make evaluations.But since you skipped going to a welding class you would not know that.Get a book on welding from the library.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:That's telling him DB! Since he's not American perhaps you should use more capitals. I hear it helps people who do not speak english natively to just talk LOUDER at them.Also, maybe vjeko doesn't have access to the kind of schools and libraries we seem to take for granted. I think he mentioned a few times he was in Croatia. Keep up the practice vjeko. There are a lot of helpful and supportive people on this forum. I know I just joined WW and who the he!! am I for correcting a "veteran" member (and CWI at that) but it really bothers me to see rude behavior from adults that should know better.E.
Reply:Donald Branscom, your input is appreciated even though you were "yelling" (maybeDonald likes to yell ) - just kidding.Welding_swede has the general picture of my situation and I am sure quite a few people are in similar situations. Just to give you an idea Im in, well, Id call it almost a village by your standards two hardware stores in the next village only 6013 and 7018 rods (nothing for MIG TIG, well, what is that ?). I have to go to the largest town in the county for anything more. There I would have to order 309 TIG wire or something out of the ordinary (small shops use TIG for stainless work). I doubt the next village library has anything decent on welding well, I could go to the county library some 30km away, but I get better material on the web and it suits me since my two mother languages are English and Croatian (lived in Melbourne, Australia from my childhood for most of my life). I called around for a welding school and the nearest one is 150km away.When I was in Melbourne, I didnt have the time for welding courses the job/travel/time didnt permit it. When I was in Germany, I actually tried to find a welding school and the only thing I found was the pro course and it cost a lot of money. With the language, job/travel/time, that was again not possible. And here I am now, still wanting to learn welding for a hobby for a start but interested in artistic work in the long run. Well, I invested a whole heap of money in the TIG and plasma and now I must force myself to learn to use them properly.The only other alternative I see is maybe paying a welder to teach me , but am skeptical this would be that much better than learning on my own.MadMax31 - I know what slag is and what the weld pool is, but by your description/separation of slag pool/weld pool I may be missing something (seeing the forest and not the trees) i.e. as per videos I watched, I don't look at the arc but at the weld pool - now what are you actually looking at /differentiating between slag pool/weld pool and why. Sorry, picking at details since that's all I have to go on to get a deeper understanding.
Reply:it seems from the progress that you are seeing the puddle as you weld. its looking better. as donald suggested make some fillet joints. and in the absence of a skilled weldor looking over yer shoulder keep posting pics here..ask teh hardware store to get you some 6011.. it welds a lot differntly that other rods, it requires the rod to move in and out of the puddle to let the puddle solidify dimeatatime.....and works very well through rust. a grinding wheel is all you need to remove rust & scale, save the polishing discs for finished work..
Reply:When we were burnin 6013 to introduce us to SMAW, we were told to pay attention to our arc gap, the size of weld puddle, and after some hours, we should be able to discern the slag pool cooling behind the actual weld pool. Once we knew what the actual weld pool was, then we could see what we were welding, and not just running beads.I hated the slag entrapment we seemed to always get on fillet joints, when the metal was cool. 2F is technical term for our lesson. 1/2 inch from start, always had some form of entrapment. It taught us too slow down, and pay attention to the slag pool, as well as the weld pool, then....No more entrapment. The guys who could not eliminate the slag entrapment, were not focusing on pool as much as they were on their arc gap... 6011 you'll need to whip, or manipulate the pool by some other means, dont whip too far out, just enough to allow pool to solidify, then burn back and stack dimes...Lincoln Power MIG 210 MP ( boat anchor )Lincoln Weld-Pac 100 HDHobart IronMan 230Cutmaster 42Jackson NexGenSumner Ultra ClampsDWM120
Reply:Vjeko,I admire your determination. Although I'm certainly not qualified to advise you on your welds, I will relate the recent experience I've been going through. As part of the welding program that I just enrolled in I had to pick up a few textbooks. All of them (and most of the stuff I've picked up on WW and the Internet in general) suggest starting with stringer beads on 3/16" (5 mm) mild steel plate 15 cm X 25 cm or so. Most of my texts call for 6013 for starting out with stringers. They suggest the long stringers to build skill with running consistent, straight beads and the length should require stopping to change the electrode which will build skills in tying in starts/stops. I've heard it described on WW as learning to crawl before you walk. Not to say that there's anything wrong with trying some joints, just seems to make sense that a person may benefit from developing the rudiment skills before trying to find out what's wrong with his joints. You can run these stringers at 13 mm intervals (according to my books) and when you're done you can continue to use the pieces by trying your hand at "padding" plates.One of the books I have seems pretty well written and has excellent illustrations. I got mine on Amazon instead of going to the school bookstore. Its: Welding Principles and Applications - 6th Edition by Larry Jeffus.Best wishes and I look forward to comparing notes in the future here on WW.Eric
Reply:I'm a bit hesitant to comment on your welds since I'm so green at welding myself and I have zero experience with that particular rod, but I'll give it a try and just take it as a suggestion to try rather than words of experience. If 6013 is like 6010, you will want to keep the arc tight even if you have the electrode touching the work piece you should still be able to maintain an arc as long as you keep the stick pointed slightly backwards into the puddle, about a 5-10 degree travel angle. As you see the puddle develop, "step" out of the puddle just enough to see the molten metal freeze, then bring the arc back to the frozen puddle and create another puddle slightly ahead of and overlapping the previous one. Maintain a consistent travel angle at all times. When I set the amps on the machine I'm working on, I set it in the range that rod is to be burned at and then adjust according to what I'm seeing happen at the arc and the direction of travel (flat, horizontal, vertical, overhead...). If the machine is up too high, for me, then I'll be having a hard time keeping a consistent puddle or when I go to step out I am essentially dragging the puddle forward rather than letting it freeze. I found that 7018 was a bit easier to get a hang of than the 6010 at first, but 6010 is easy once you get in a groove. The two rods also work pretty well together since 6010 seems to burn out a lot of the crap that might be on the metal and is easy to clean the slag off of, 7018 just makes a buttery smooth weld to cap it off with. Anyways, my advice is worth what you paid for it, but I hope it helps you out.
Reply:Again, thanks for all the comments ! I will practice and analyze what is going onand post pictures after I feel I'm not getting any further (which may be very soon )I'm a beginner at this too... but I will say welding in cold temperatures gave me fits. I found that I had to crank up the amperage to compensate. It wasn't clear to me, but I suspect cold metal + cold transformer coils gave me less than consistent output until things got warmed up. I found working when things were less than 20 to 25 deg F were really frustrating. The other thing that I discovered (at least for my machine) was that the amperage indicator could not be trusted. I ended up purchasing a clamping ammeter, testing on A/C mode. The painted on amp gauge was pretty far off (120 amps on label = 90 amps or so actual).Your recent photos show lots of improvement. Keep up the work!--zip.
Reply:With the adjustments that you list I would like to see the a pic of your machine. In post #11 even though your welds were short you were on the right track. Leave the machine on the settings you had set in post #11 and the only adjustment you should make is only to the amperage. Play with the settings everytime is unneccesary and only makes thing more difficult. You should start practicing on t-joints and running longer beads and stacking them.
Reply:Thanks again for the comments !zipzit - I can't say anything about the temperature having an effect - I'm too new to welding (started using the TIG machine to learn TIG but sidestepped to learn arc for some rough jobs I didn't want to waste the argon etc. on) .Jay O - #11 is at 80A. Regarding the other parameters,-arc force dynamic correction was increased (this makes the arc harder/more stable(but more spatter) and helps with electrode not sticking (I am guessing, you adjust it to get no sticking/stable arc with minimum spatter- hot start current was increased to 150% of main current/0,5sec (I still can't tell whether my starts need to be improved/these parameters changed)- I increased Uco enough so that I lift the rod the amount I want to end weldingHere's a photo of the machine and the messy area around it - I "park" it and my "welding table" temporarily in this room - a desparate man does desperate things - the "trolley was laying around, so I made use of it and the workmate is begging to go back to woodworking but he'll have to wait a bit (a steel plate on the MDF saves me from fire) Attached Images
Reply:OK, I was back at practicing again today - now I'm really pushing myself to try to get to at least passable state so I can weld a few things which will help to reduce some mess.Today I continued with practice on thick plate (5mm) , seeing the weld puddle/slag puddle and at the end I tried to emulate a few faulty welds so that I could recognise them when I look at my welds.Regarding the weld/slag puddle, I'm still not there - more practice tomorrow.Regarding recognising my mistakes, I'm afraid I'm not too good at it either.I found the following web page:http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/arc-welding-faults.htm, printed out the photos and did some comparisons but am not sure I made the right assessment.Anyway, I took a photo of the "emulation" I did i.e. doing the wrong thing on purposeand would appreciate if someone could verify that the pictures represent what I noted. Attached Images
Reply:I took some more pictures and would appreciate if someone could commentif I am on the right track to identifying the signs of good/bad welds:Picture:1: Sorry, took this late/not so good but maybe someone can comment2.comment is on picture3.comment is on picture4.(a)/start looks good, (b)looks like long arc and (c) looks like too slow 5.not sure Attached Images
Reply:some more6.not sure (looks good)8.start look ok, then I go too fast and then it looks ok again9.looks ok10.starts ok, then too fast11.looks ok , then too fast towards the end Attached Images
Reply:one more picture12.There is a difference in how close the dimes are but not sure what it meansOK, if someone has the patience to comment on the pictures, I will be very happy.Overall, the thick steel is "saving me" - I tried to weld on 3mm and 2mm steel andthe results are not so good - the main problem being that the weld/metal is getting red hot(and deforming the surface on the opposite side)even if I try to have a very short arc - how many amps should be used on 3mm and 2mm with a 2,5mm 6013 (I guess for the 2mm, one should swap to a 2mm electrode - unless one is experienced enough) Attached Images
Reply:As Bryan 27 mentioned, many people (myself included) prefer 7018 as a good all around welding rod. Your English, as written, is excellent, making me think you probably didn't originate in Croatia. Anyway, since there is a scarcity of books and classes, I think you'd do better by finding a local tradesman whose welding you like, and see what he'd charge you to teach you the ropes. Nothing teaches better than an instructor who knows what he's doing and can show you the tips and tricks that make a good weldor. I was taught to stick weld by a union iron worker who had many years of practice in making sounds welds that would pass inspection. Look around the town you are in and see what is available to you. Even an hour with a skilled weldor will be worth more than anything we can tell you on a website. Best of luck.DougMiller Syncrowave 350Millermatic 252/ 30A spoolgunMiller Bobcat 225g w/ 3545 spoolgunLincoln PowerArc4000Lincoln 175 Mig Lincoln 135 Mig Everlast 250EX TigCentury ac/dc 230 amp stickVictor O/AHypertherm 1000 plasma
Reply:Doug, I'll leave that option open until I practiced a bit more and come to a dead end.That will be a good base for getting instructions - much better than coming over looking like I haven't seen a welding machine and needing a week of practice before I could get to the essential stuff.I would still like the feedback/comments to help me identify the welds better as you can't be certain whether I'll find an "instructor" or just a welder and I think its crucial to understand what you're seeing/what corrections arenecessary (actually I now know someone I could ask but he's one of those typeswho would say, well you do it just like that - no patience or ear for needs of a beginner - will see how it goes.
Reply:vjeko, Here is a site on youtube that has helped me out alot. this guy has 10 videos and shows the way the puddle should look. Hope it helps and your welding has gotten better! Good Luck youtube.com/watch?v=8Nt9fS_WOZMLast edited by jim_mas; 01-25-2011 at 01:50 PM.
Reply:Hi Jim,Thanks ! Yes, those videos are really !!! good - they also helped me a lot- if you want to watch the whole business without the breaks etc - I did find them quite a long time ago - when I was like a squirrel collecting all info when I was waiting for the TIG to arrive (2 vidoes of approx 700Mb each) on the web - covers everything in all the youtube ones. The thing is, besides needing a lot more practice, I need to look at the welds and tell what I was doing wrong so that I can improve. Pictures of faulty welds can be seen eg. here:http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/arc-welding-faults.htmand I can tell from looking at the weld when the arc is too short or current too low (the buildup without flowing on the sides) or going too fast (the triangular/stretched dimes)but I can't read the welds which to me look good - some have larger distances between dimes, others are a bit flatter - and I can't read them whether they're good and why/why not. That is why I took all the pictures - hoping someone expert enough would just comment on the differences in each weld and what they mean.I think this would be beneficial material for any beginner.
Reply:Forgot to repeat something that wasn't answered before:(a)What current should I run a 2,5mm 6013 on 3mm steel ?(b)The marking on the pack of the electrodes says 65A-90A - can they be used below65A for thinner steel ?
Reply:I had too find a converter, I think yer running 3/32"...So 32nd rule...30 amps for every 32nd of an inch, but you use Metric, So I cant tell you any "Rules of Thumb"...90 Amps is likely a good starting point. Arrow heads indicate travel speed too fast. Watch your puddle width, as you travel, keep it consistent, and your toes will blend in better. Dont change your Rod angle While welding....Not for flat beads anyway...So far, so good. Keep at it, and burn some LONGER beads, try burning a whole rod start to finish..See if you can peel the slag as you go. If amps are too low, slow down, if amps too High, speed up!Lincoln Power MIG 210 MP ( boat anchor )Lincoln Weld-Pac 100 HDHobart IronMan 230Cutmaster 42Jackson NexGenSumner Ultra ClampsDWM120
Reply:MadMax31, will do. You suggested 90A but on the pack it says 65A - 90A - wouldn't I needto go quite a bit lower for running it on 3mm material (I was running 80A on 5mm material). Also, now I think I see one of my big problems - maybe a reason why I,m getting burn through/material getting red hot on 3mm material - if you look on posts #30 and #31, I'm running 2,5mm rod on 20mm wide material but am getting only 2 welds + some space on 20mm i.e. the welds are way too wide/too much material/too hot - they should be only a little wider than the rod (eg 5mm, so I get 4 rows of welds) especially if I want to lower the heat- right ?You didn't comment about going below the minimum specified on the pack/if/when this is done and what is the trick to using 2,5mm rod on 2mm material (or is it always wisest to choose rod diameter according to material i.e. get some 2mm rods ?
Reply:Well, for thin material, yes you should try running 65-70 amps...and I would angle my rod towards puddle to help minimize blow through, while building weld bead...Dont you have thicker material to practice with? Or is this the material you will be working with predominantly?You'll likely have to stager welds to prevent over heating base metal, and warping.Either way, have funLincoln Power MIG 210 MP ( boat anchor )Lincoln Weld-Pac 100 HDHobart IronMan 230Cutmaster 42Jackson NexGenSumner Ultra ClampsDWM120
Reply:This is all fine and dandy. The stringers look good for the most part.Phase Two........get on to gluing some metal together. You seem to be ready for the transition. Stringers do not a weldor/welder (I'm old fashioned, and don't like the new word) make.It's time to discover how gravity messes with the puddle. The technique required to wash in a lap joint. Making equal legs on a fillet. The list goes on.Partake of the joys of fitup The drudgery of the grinder..................In other words........get yer feet wet"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:And don't lay yer USB cord so close to the work area, it could get bespattered"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:OK, thanks for all the feedback !!!!, now back to more practice.
Reply:Hi vjeko, it looks like you are progressing nicely. This isn't something that you will master quickly. You may get some beads down then go to vertical and get frustrated again. Stick welding is very hard and you are doing great. Some have suggested finding someone locally to come and teach you. I think you should call around to some weld shops or construction sites and see if they would let you take a few minutes to just watch a pro run a few beads. This will let you see the puddle and manipulation and how much heat they are using. Machine settings are just guidlines and it does become more personal for many as far as settings go. I like that you started purposfully doing the wrong things to see what it does. This is important. Are you still running electrode -? Try running on electrode + and see how that works. You will probably be able to distinguish the difference between the puddle and the slag easier as well as it being smoother and more forgiving since rather then piling the weld on the plate you will actually be digging in a bit and having to fill the hole. Crank the machine up also. Try 100 amps or more even. You can run as low of amps as you can while keeping the rod lit but the slag will be trying to outrun you and even on thin material it will produce very tall welds. The smaller 1/16 6013 would be better for real thin stuff. They are more difficult to run though and the size you are using is perfect for practice. On your cold metal you should take a small torch and warm it up a bit. Run a bead then dip in water then run another stacked against it like a fillet. Keep doing this while continuing to cool plate in water. The plate will stay warm al long as you don't soak it. Don't do this for any purposeful weldments just practice as it speeds things up. Dealing with heat in the plate is something you will eventually have to deal with but when you are building things sometimes you must skip around as to not get the weldment to hot which is what can easily happen while practicing and that changes things so much that it might lead you to believe after you run a nice bead that then you are doing something wrong again when you may not be. Hope this helps as well. Best I can say is keep plate cool and just keep practicing.Millermatic 252Lincoln 175 plusTA 185tswTA 161stlhypertherm pmax 45Victor torchHenrob torchAn S10 for each day of the week |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:30:41