Rust Removal

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I picked up a bunch of vise grips (15) on Craigslist, the seller said in the ad they had surface rust. When I saw them , the condition ranged from not too bad to put away wet. I read about soaking rusty items in white vinegar to remove rust, I was going to try this but I'm wondering if the vinegar will also remove the plating on the clamps. The other way is some oil and a wire wheel.Any thoughts or other suggestions?Here are some of the clamps, the best and the worst.
Reply:If they work ok I'd wipe em down with a coat of wd-40 and leave em be. They're tools. Aint spose to be pretty
Reply:Wire wheel on a bench grinder and wipe with WD40.
Reply:Course Scotchbrite pad, grease the pivots. Throw some paint on the bad ones. Run a tap into the tool and down the bolt and apply some anti seize. You can get new springs at the industrial bolt supply type place. They should work good as new.Last edited by Jimmy_pop; 03-28-2013 at 01:01 PM.
Reply:http://www.jelmar.com/CLRbasic.htmNothing Ever Got Done By Quitting, Never Give Up.
Reply:For the lighter rust, I'd follow the above suggestions, whichever one you like. For the real rusty ones, I'd let them soak in Coke, molasses, vinegar or the acid suggested in the ^ post. They would also be a great candidate for a electrolysis process if you want to play around with that sort of thing. They won't come out bright though.__________________
Reply:You can get a few free repair part like springs and screws from Irwin.http://www.irwin.com/support-services/replacement-parts"USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:washing soda, water, battery charger, donor metal=
Reply:This stuff will work:http://www.evaporust.com/You can get it at Autozone. Soak your pieces for 24 hours and they will be good as new.I just used some to clean out the rust from a Harley gas tank.Worked like a charm. kidtigger24  They think I’m crazy, but I know better. It is not I who am crazy. It is I who am MAD!
Reply:Originally Posted by abDCwashing soda, water, battery charger, donor metal
Reply:Put them in a cement mixer with whatever chemical in the above comments you like the best. Throw in a little sand and gravel if it is really bad. Kind of a redneck tumbler.
Reply:We get tools sent to my electroplating company all the time.  A few things for you..... If they are "Irwin" brand "vise-grips," they are plated with nickel.  Second, if you have rust on them, the underlying nickel (or zinc, cadmium, etc...) plating is already sacrificed and destroyed.  I suggest you remove the rust with a wire wheel, then send them off to your local plater for the LEAST expensive finish of "yellow zinc."  Aka "type II zinc."  If you get them replated in the more durable (and original) nickel finish, it would be cost prohibitive and you'd be better off buying new pliers.  Plus, the "yellow zinc" is very durable for tools and such and will last a long long time.  An electroplater will be able to remove the rust that you missed with the wire wheel, without a problem.  Plating makes it so you don't have to constantly wipe down the tools with oil, thus also making the tool a dust and debris magnet.Last edited by SuperArc; 03-30-2013 at 02:32 AM.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:I've noticed that when I wipe down warm stuff with oil, it doesn't seem to rust for a long time.  I wonder what would happen if you put small tools/parts in a boiling pot of oil. Then just wipe them off good afterwards.My name's not Jim....
Reply:I use muriatic acid followed by a bath in a baking soda solution to neutralize it.  You'd have to disassemble them.   Afterwards, heat them up on your grill and then WD40.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:The electrolysis video shows you the polarity to take the rust off.Take the "sacrifical" anode out, replace it with a piece of Zinc.Of course switching the polarity and replate it yourself.Should work??????
Reply:If you soak them in vinegar too long it will remove the plating. I don't know about the real rusted ones. Try one , you can always repaint it.
Reply:One variation on the muriatic acid (Hydrogen Chloride) method is to use "The Works" blue toilet bowl cleaner.  Last I checked, it's about 20% acid and also contains a significant amount of Rodine inhibitor to reduce attack of the base metal itself.  It's a buck a bottle at the dollar stores, so you don't need to buy a big jug.  Best used out of doors where fumes can't get near anything you value.  Rinse off with baking soda or another basic solution.http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wo...with-the-worksPhosphoric acid is probably a safer and gentler alternative.  In any event, I would remove the springs to prevent any possible embrittlement. Attached Images"USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmI've noticed that when I wipe down warm stuff with oil, it doesn't seem to rust for a long time.  I wonder what would happen if you put small tools/parts in a boiling pot of oil. Then just wipe them off good afterwards.
Reply:Heating does reduce the oil's viscosity, allowing better penetration of the oil into the nooks and crannies of the metal and so affording better protection of the metal from oxygenTo the OP - I'd also suggest electrolysis (or since the tools don't look "that bad" Turtle Wax Chrome cleaner) followed by a rub down with plain oil. Any rust the forms later can easily be removed with a bit of steel wool and more oil. All my vises are bare metal and oil, no paint - very easy to maintainLast edited by wirehead; 03-31-2013 at 12:09 AM.XMT304 (school)SP125+ (home)HF 4x6 BandsawGood judgement comes from experience and much of that comes from bad judgement.
Reply:Originally Posted by wireheadHeating does reduce the oil's viscosity, allowing better penetration of the oil into the nooks and crannies of the metal and so affording better protection of the metal from oxygenTo the OP - I'd also suggest electrolysis (or since the tools don't look "that bad" Turtle Wax Chrome cleaner) followed by a rub down with plain oil. Any rust the forms later can easily be removed with a bit of steel wool and more oil. All my vises are bare metal and oil, no paint - very easy to maintain
Reply:I'd throw them in my blast cabinet and then oil them.
Reply:A question for SuperArc.Could you give a ball-park figure for what it would cost to have these re-plated? I don't know if you are at $1 apiece or $10 apiece. I'm sure it varies by location, but just wondered so I would know whether to even pursue re-plating some tools.Thank you in advance.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Muratic acid works great it can be found at any hardware store and it's cheap. Let them soak until the rust is gone put them in water and baking soda to neutralize acid. Oil well.Put gloves on and eye protection when handling acid.Good luck and have fun.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jimmy_popCourse Scotchbrite pad, grease the pivots. Throw some paint on the bad ones. Run a tap into the tool and down the bolt and apply some anti seize. You can get new springs at the industrial bolt supply type place. They should work good as new.
Reply:I can't believe nobody gave me crap about the cemnt mixer option.  They are not easy to screed on a perfect slab.Cement mixer?! Are u crazy?! LolRanger 305gMillermatic 140 AutosetDewalt Chopsaw2 grindersMy Fists
Reply:I used white vinagar and it worked good, with a pair that were frozen solid. soaked them for a couple days.
Reply:Originally Posted by wb4rtA question for SuperArc.Could you give a ball-park figure for what it would cost to have these re-plated? I don't know if you are at $1 apiece or $10 apiece. I'm sure it varies by location, but just wondered so I would know whether to even pursue re-plating some tools.Thank you in advance.
Reply:How about por-15'ing them?
Reply:With oiled tools in the tool box, that would give me a major dust collection device, that would crap up the rest of my tools.  Tools should be properly stored clean and dry.  Ever see a tool box on the back of a truck with dirty rusty tools?  It looks like crap.  Light oil coatings evaporate and rust still finds its way to them. "Hey I didn't come to look and learn, I came to turn and burn.... If I can't light up, I'm gonna light out!"-JodyIdealarc 250 "Fatman"MM 252MM 211 "Little boy" Victor Torches
Reply:Bringing back a dated thread. It was mentioned to oil bare metal. Tools are usually plated or treated. Bare steel can be heated and boiled linseed oil applied. I wouldn't boil the oil, just make sure the tool is hot. Wipe off the excess and let dry (cool). The linseed oil creates a barrier like paint. And like paint, needs to be redone now and then. Regular oils like motor oil will just stay oily. You don't want that.__________________
Reply:Originally Posted by CamWI picked up a bunch of vise grips (15) on Craigslist, the seller said in the ad they had surface rust. When I saw them , the condition ranged from not too bad to put away wet. I read about soaking rusty items in white vinegar to remove rust, I was going to try this but I'm wondering if the vinegar will also remove the plating on the clamps. The other way is some oil and a wire wheel.Any thoughts or other suggestions?Here are some of the clamps, the best and the worst.
Reply:I'm of the lube them and use them school.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerI'm of the lube them and use them school.
Reply:Linseed oil is great for wood, but crap for metal.   Trust me, I'm a professional metal plater that owns a company with ISO 9001 and NADCAP certs.  We plate everything from aerospace and automotive components, (including milspec jobs), to the basic shade tree mechanic pair of pliers!!!    Oiled tools works, but electroplating is best.  The cheapest electroplating cost for your pliers is going to be a minimum of around $60.00.  That's with yellow zinc, from ANY player.  Nickel is better for wear protection, but would be around $90.00 minimum.  I would just hit them with a wire brush and wipe down with WD40.  However, if they are exposed outdoors daily, I'd get them plated!   Or, buy cheap Chinese clones from Harbor Freight and be done with this already.  'Nuff said.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Cement Mixer to "tumble" rusty Nuts and Bolts in a Sand/Gravel mix!Works awesome on VINTAGE hardware!ViseGrips?I would waste my time cleaning them!They will be covered in Grinder/Welder dust in not time!
Reply:Originally Posted by OldendumYou can get a few free repair part like springs and screws from Irwin.http://www.irwin.com/support-services/replacement-parts
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderCool.  Thanks.  Received   10 free springs today.
Reply:Originally Posted by blackbartI can't believe nobody gave me crap about the cemnt mixer option.  They are not easy to screed on a perfect slab.
Reply:another option - blast and parkerize:http://www.webshooters.org/diy_home_parkerizing.htm