Tig welding 2 pieces together? Questions?

admin

I'm practicing on round pipe and when I get an arc going and start dipping my filler rod I can't seem to dip the rod in the spot I need it. I'm using an auto darking helmet had it set on 9 and tried it up to 13 and it just seems the arc is still too bright to see where the two pipes line up.Any words of advice on this?Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Turn the shield on.Two turn tables and a microphone.
Reply:Funny.It's not blinding bright but bright enough to where it's hard to see the metal.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:If a 13 shade doesn't cut the glare you have something else going on besides the welding lens.Two turn tables and a microphone.
Reply:Such as?Anyone have a picture of what it should look like through the lens so I can compare and see what I have?Also another question, I dip the filler rod and pull it back out but keep it in the enevlope and it starts to ball up and melt and drop by itself. Am I too hot or not pulling it up far enough?Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:hes not being funny he's serious. the problem you describe is exactly what it looks like when you don't turn a helmet on. What kind of helmet are you using?_______________________OF COURSE I DON'T LOOK BUSY... I DID IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME
Reply:Originally Posted by trouble007hes not being funny he's serious. the problem you describe is exactly what it looks like when you don't turn a helmet on. What kind of helmet are you using?
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleSuch as?Anyone have a picture of what it should look like through the lens so I can compare and see what I have?Also another question, I dip the filler rod and pull it back out but keep it in the enevlope and it starts to ball up and melt and drop by itself. Am I too hot or not pulling it up far enough?
Reply:Move it more vertical if it's balling up ?Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Also my welds tend to be more >>>>>> instead of ) ) ) ) ) ) What does that mean? And is there a bad thing to too much gas? I'm using 17cf/hr "ish" of gas on 16g-18g. I am welding SS and Mild both the same size.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleMove it more vertical if it's balling up ?
Reply:pictures would help.......Hard to believe you can't notice a difference  from  9-13   shade.......Your hood must have a problem, try a different hood and get some pictures of your weldsLast edited by B_C; 04-07-2011 at 05:45 PM.  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleAlso another question, I dip the filler rod and pull it back out but keep it in the enevlope and it starts to ball up and melt and drop by itself. Am I too hot or not pulling it up far enough?
Reply:>>> when i get these it tells me my angle is  too flat, means pointing too far down the line..aim more directly into the plate..
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbead>>> when i get these it tells me my angle is  too flat, means pointing too far down the line..aim more directly into the plate..
Reply:That's not tig welding.  That's dropping poop.Too hot, too cold, bad travel speed, wrong torch angle, etc, etc.You can't weld what you can't see.  You need to get the hood problem solved before you develop any more bad habits.You're definitely NOT ready to start welding pipe.Seriously, you need to look into a basic tig class maybe at a local CC.  If you keep on doing what you're currently doing, you're  going to develop bad habits which are hard to break.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Classes at community college are not in my budget nor my schedule.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:FWIW, I learned how to TIG weld on stainless. I do have a lot of bad habits, some of which I've been able to break, but others I can't seem to get rid of. I read all I can on the subject and practice whenever I get a chance. It really helps to look at pictures of stainless welds done right, and try to make yours look the same. Experimenting and practicing is fine, hood time is the only way to improve your skills, but don't make any critical welds on structural parts or components that will be pressurized until your welding improves considerably.The v-shape of your beads tells 2 things: 1) travel speed too fast, and 2) torch angle too acute. The fact that they sit really proud also indicates that they're relatively cold, you're melting too much filler & sucking heat out of the weld -or- the current is set too low. How thick is the pipe you're welding?Hold your torch 90 degrees dead nuts to the workpiece, then tilt it away from the direction of travel about 10~17 degrees. Use an angle finder or protractor if you have to, just to see what 10 degrees looks like. It's not very much. With the correct torch angle you won't get a huge plasma flame blasting forward over the joint and obscuring it, which will let you see better. It also won't melt your filler into a ball before you can dip it. If you do melt your filler into a dingleberry, stop and cut it off. It will make a $hitty mess if you try to dip it, and often contaminates your weld with oxides/carbides. Forcing yourself to stop and cut it off every time may seem tedious, but it's like negative reinforcement, it will teach you to find the sweet spot in the gas envelope where the filler doesn't ball up. Another rule of thumb I picked up: arc length should be roughly equal to tungsten diameter. It's worked for me so far!Also, what kind of filler are you using? Are you using steel filler on stainless? Reason I ask is because your welds sit really proud as though they're cold, but are sugared like they would be if the SS got too hot. Either that or you're using steel filler on stainless...
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleClasses at community college are not in my budget nor my schedule.
Reply:Oh geez. I have my priorities in order and welding is just a hobby.First comes work, child, dog then hobbies.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleOh geez. I have my priorities in order and welding is just a hobby.First comes work, child, dog then hobbies.
Reply:Borrow another helmet to confirm the results or borrow another buddy to weld and see his results I'm thinkin its your viewing recognition and the helmet.Take your helmet to lws and have them weld.Vin.
Reply:If you can't take an instructional class, see if you can get someone with experience to demonstrate proper technique. What you are doing is not practicing, as you are displaying a high degree of inconsistency in whatever it is that you are trying to do. You must try and duplicate a precise set of motions, and if you don't know what those motions are, you have nothing to practice.If you can't see clearly through your lens, give it a thorough cleaning. If you butt two pieces of light gauge metal together, the joint should not appear blurry at all. If it appears sharp and crisp you know that your vision is ok, and the lens is clean. If you are welding light gauge metal while wearing a #10 lens, you should only see the area close to your puddle in great detail. If you can see what is going on around you while welding, throw out the welding helmet.
Reply:Now for a few newb questions ... Gamble ... How long have you been welding? Did you start right out with TIG? Why not O/A? ... O/A has been building battleships and race cars since forever ...I have been there, done that ... I have taken the scars and left the smiles to prove it ...  U.S. Marine extraordinaire ...Wars fought, tigers tamed, revolutions started, bars emptied, alligators castrated ...
Reply:I started with a HF flux welder and used it for a year or so then moved up to a lincoln Mig that I have had since last summer and now tig. I do stick weld on occasion at my dads house because that is all he has and I would like to be decent at all 3. I have no desire to o/a weld at all.Here are some welds I did last night.^^For the life of me I couldn't figure out how to do this one again. I made a video just have to upload it, maybe you guys can see what I'm doing wrong.This was flat stock which I used a flap wheel on. Red tungsten, 80 amps and some were with 3/32 rod and some were 1/16th rod.Last edited by Gamble; 04-09-2011 at 08:42 AM.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal DealerThose last ones don't look so bad for a newbie with a fluxcore machine.But for tig, they are the pits.We are not trying to be mean, but you are making it easy for us!!! For now, stick to just making a puddle on flat 1/8" material, without filler. Then, with filler. Get to where you get a decent bead going, and your speed is good, the color gets good and not black-gray. Then start welding pieces together.You are missing some key points; the hood may truly be an issue. Definitely, the machine is a simple unit with no adjustment, so this will be a problem. Expect to go through a full bottle of gas just learning the basics.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:watch the arc start and watch the puddle start to melt, and after the puddle gets bigger, touch the filler rod to the side of the puddle opposite the torch (called the leaading edge of the puddle)..move and do it again.. but your joints are cold, so make sure you have a puddle before you try to add filler...small filler will cool the puddle less than thicker filler...
Reply:make sure something isnt blocking the sensors for the helmet. some times if im welding far away or realy close up my hand with the filler can block the sensors and i get a good flash.  i check my helmet before i weld by looking up at the lights or at the sun too see if it darkens.also with the puddle. the way i learned was too start the arc slowly, the puddle starts out as kindof a backword c . cuz im right handed. it might be a forward c if your left handed. once the puddle makes a complete o dip your filler then move down the line a little and wait for the c to make an o and dip.  i learned that with the heat probably a little low. but it worked for getting the rythem and routine going . now i can do it with more heat and go a little faster.  start out slow to learn the process.
Reply:Sweet, thanks. I'll look for the C. I'm right handed as well. I have to make some adjustments to my bench so I can rest my forearm on something and weld, instead off just leaning over the vice.I have a video of me welding I put up on youtube. Sorry it took so long I never made a movie and never uploaded anything to youtube.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Here does this help?[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mERaEk3IByw[/ame]Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Looks like to me that your not holding the torch close enough? and your too slow on your DABS  make a quick movement with each DAB  not super fast but faster than your doing it in the video now......I like to hold my filler flatter and almost  parallel to the table slightly higher at your hand end......Last edited by B_C; 04-10-2011 at 08:39 PM.  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Originally Posted by B_CLooks like to me that your not holding the torch close enough? .....
Reply:^^correct, I had a few times where it would still ball up and drip before I dabbed it so it threw me off a little bit.So hold the filler at more of an angle?What should the correct distance from the tip of the tungsten to the work piece be? I will try again and post more.And once again thank you for your help. Anything else I should put in the video? I know it's hard to see weld from the video but it's a little flip camera, nothing special.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:The arc comes off like a cone. You can control it several ways. 1st point the torch more vertical so the cone points down, not out in front where your filler is. 2nd  maintain a closer arc.  1/8" is good for most learners. Here's where a good stable rest will help so you don't dip the tungsten in the puddle or hit it with the filler.  The closer the arc, the smaller the cone. The farther out you hold the tungsten, the larger the "heat" cone of the arc and the less control you have on the puddle. How close you hold the arc also controls some of the actual heat you are inputing. If you keep moving in and out with the tungsten, you keep changing the heat, and you won't get a consistant bead. Also it looks like you may have contaminated the tungsten several times in that vid. Each time you do you change the arc characteristics and widen the arc. 3rd  you could use a pedal if you had one to help with heat control. As far as the filler melting, besides controling the arc and keeping the arc closer, use a bigger filler that doesn't melt as easily, (Example 3/32" takes more heat to melt than say 1/16'). You need to be careful your filler isn't too big however or that will also cause issues. I also tend to keep the filler flatter to the plate, it keeps it away from the tungsten more as well as other things..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:the c thing can get you in trouble with thinner material if you hold the torch too long and get it too hot. it will put a nice hole in it. it works good with like 1/8" and up.  also i didnt watch the vid but i listened to it.  the tick tick tick is your rhythm. when you here tick....tick....tick.... tick.   you know your moving steady.   when you here tick....tick.... tick,tick,tick you know you either touch the tungsten to the puddle or the rod to the tungsten.  how thick the material is determines the heat and speed. it also determines how much filler you need. if the heats down low for thin stuff. just let the filler tick... tick...tick...      if its thicker material you might need to push the filler into the puddle more.i find with thin stuff i just move in a strait line but with thicker stuff i go in a circle motion.  others might be able to give better pointers on that thow.just practice practice practice. and if you can find someone that welds, get them to come and give you a lesson.  thats what i did and it made a world of diffrence. he showed me things i was doing wrong that i thought was right.  in person help is tons better then internet help.  although these dudes here know how to put visuals into words.
Reply:If that camera view is through the lense on your helmet, then there's something wrong with it. Try holding your torch more upright, you're leaning it too far back, also, as said don't melt the filler with the arc, use the leading edge of the weld pool.Last edited by Baila La Pinza; 04-12-2011 at 03:27 AM.
Reply:There is no helmet on the camera. I will try to rig something up though.I'm looking for someone to come by and give me a few pointers. For 1/8th material, how many amps is recommended?Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:I just watched your vid again and here's something else you need to get in the habit of doing especially on Stainless......when you get to the end of your weld DON'T pull the torch away so fast from the molten pool.........Hold it close until your pos flow is finished  flowing.....(that should be at least 10 seconds or more depending on your application) It's a good habit to get into even with mild steel........  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:watch your own video and see how far your filler comes away from the work....miller syncrowave 250hobart handler 140home made 400 amp engine driven in progress...
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleThere is no helmet on the camera. I will try to rig something up though.I'm looking for someone to come by and give me a few pointers. For 1/8th material, how many amps is recommended?
Reply:I have the calculator but to be honest I haven't used it. I have spent most of my time reading the books.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer