Grapple/ New tines/ Innershield

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This is and old scrap grapple but was not well suited for brush and roots. I added the tines but looks like I will have to extend the claws as well as I used it today, it is better but can be improved.   For those of you who have asked, here is Flux core from an LN-25 running off Mid 80's Weldanpower 225 W/ onan.  CV Rheostat maxed on 10 running .O68 wire. had to turn it down to 50 in/ min to get these results but worked pretty good. Bare with me I haven't touched the LN-25 in probably 2 yrs. Have never ran it from the Weldanpower but I think .035 or .045 is better suited, Oh Yeah, were using 211 MP.[Here are better shots of the welds, what looks like undercut in the photo is a shadow due to the large radius on the 1/4 wall 2x2 square tube. some spatter can be seen but is characeristic of flux core. Also I made the mistake of not bringing the machine home so I had to peak in and around the claws to weld, not as thin as I used to be, LOL last photo is a horizontal slightly uphill on outside edge, note the craters where I didn't wait long enough for it to cool when I chipped the slag, you can eliminate alot of these by chipping along the toes of the weld instead of in the middle.Last edited by kolot; 02-12-2012 at 12:23 AM."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251   Syncrowave 300   30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200   1 short hood    SA250    SAM 400
Reply:Looks good!!  I've never really liked the grapple buckets compared to the root grapple style, but way to make use of what you have...  Ive picked up 2 LN-25s in the past couple months, havent ran either of them yet but they both had .068 flux core in them, one probably has 10 lbs left in it...  I've never ran that big of wire, but you certainly make it look good!!
Reply:I wouldn't mess with the claws or the cylinder mounts too much.  That exact bucket (maybe wider, but looks the same) was the bucket of choice at the scrap yard I worked at.  I've repaired many worn bushings, cracked tubes, broken ears, and hydraulic lines on those.  Any tinkering will get you into trouble.  We even built a few copies from scratch.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Tinkering and adjustments won't get me into trouble , but buying pins, bushings and related hardware from the Bobcat dealer will get you into the poor house, sit down now, pins and bushings will run over $600 , am I getting cheap or is that really high for a few pins and bushings, They aren't even large diam.  This was bought by me from an auto wrecker some time ago, I use it for brush and tree logs more than anything. Just can't get around the average size brush pile. It will more than pick the weight, just can't gather enough volume to suit me. I will get back to it come the spring."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251   Syncrowave 300   30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200   1 short hood    SA250    SAM 400
Reply:We made our own bushings from DOM and pins from stress proof. That part was never too bad.  All the bushings are welded on the outside only.  A torch for the weld and a hammer to knock out the remaining bit works pretty good.  I always turned a shoulder on the bushings so they fit right.  IF you have to extend the claw, I would cut them on the center line of the cross tube and extend them straight out.  That would leave all the cylinder mounts alone.One last thing.  Hoses and hard lines are a real SOB to work on.  Especially if some "operator" hooks them on something.My name's not Jim....
Reply:nice work, don't be so critical of the welds, they are probably many times better than the original work. x2 on the pins and bushings cost. 40% of the cost goes to product liability insurance and lawyer fees (welcome to liberal america, haven for lawsuits) regards, tom.
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmWe made our own bushings from DOM and pins from stress proof. That part was never too bad.  All the bushings are welded on the outside only.  A torch for the weld and a hammer to knock out the remaining bit works pretty good.  I always turned a shoulder on the bushings so they fit right.  IF you have to extend the claw, I would cut them on the center line of the cross tube and extend them straight out.  That would leave all the cylinder mounts alone.One last thing.  Hoses and hard lines are a real SOB to work on.  Especially if some "operator" hooks them on something.