My TIG machine died. Need a replacement.

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My 10 or so year old Maxstar (or something like that) Miller had a cardiac arrest yesterday.. It thinks that it's over heated, as soon as you start it up.. I hear it click to reset 5 seconds after turning it on, but it remains in the flashing yellow overheat mode and doesn't allow an arc.I've sent in in for repair, if possible.. So, what I'm shopping for is a VERY LIGHT, VERY SMALL TIG machine.. I have to travel with it on planes, so weight's a big issue.. I only need 90 amps or so when using 120v, and actually 90% of my welding is done at around 24 amps, as I'm usually just putting a tiny dot of weld on razor sharp tips, and I have to do this without buring away on either side..This Miller has been my constant travel companion for 10 years, so I have no idea what's out there in current technology.. All it's got to do is give me a positive and negative plug, be light, and small.. I run a mini torch that's directly hooked to gas, and scratch start all I need.. I don't need remote amperage control, I don't need high freq, and it doesn't need to control my gas..So, I'm really after a simple machine, and money isn't an issue.. I just need it light, small, and I need it to last..
Reply:I have a friend locally who is selling a Maxstar 150 with contractor kit, if you're looking to stay blue.  If you're willing to venture out into other brands, I hear Thermal Arc makes a nice portable machine./I'm sure some people here will recommend the Harbor Freight machine as an option, too, but I have no personal experience with TIG welding with it for extended periods of time.
Reply:If you are using the welder at such low amperage, it isn't very likely that it has overheated. I have had the same problem with a Maxstar 140 when the power cord had a poor connection, so hopefully that is your only problem. The Maxstar 150 has been around for a few years now, and are very reliable. They would be a logical replacement if you were happy with your old one.
Reply:Originally Posted by Pro-FabIf you are using the welder at such low amperage, it isn't very likely that it has overheated. I have had the same problem with a Maxstar 140 when the power cord had a poor connection, so hopefully that is your only problem. The Maxstar 150 has been around for a few years now, and are very reliable. They would be a logical replacement if you were happy with your old one.
Reply:paper,The aforementioned Maxstar 150 that my friend has (in Louisville) he is selling for $700 with the Miller case, TIG torch, etc.  I didn't mention the price before, but I know that he's hardly used the thing.  I was going to buy it, but I can't justify a DC only machine.
Reply:Great price, but the problem with the Miller's is that the gas is run through the machine, with a selenoid.. I'm only doing a dot of weld, and I have to strike an arc to purge all that line of O to get Argon to the torch.. I'm typically running 40' of hose to the machine, and then need a minimum of 25' of tig hose.. With what I showed, or what I'm currently using, I just plug my + and - to the machine, turn on the argon with the knob at the torch, and within 20 seconds I'm ready to weld..The Miller case in his kit doesn't do me any good, nor does the TIG torch.. The welder unit itself would work, but it's not saving me that much money, and none of this is coming out of my pocket.. I'm just expensing the kit as a needed tool.. I've already got a padded Pelican case for shipping.. Please don't get me wrong.. I appreciate the offer, but the more I look at the current Miller machines, the more I'm looking elsewhere.. It's my application.. If I was in a shop making nice little stainless trinkets, I'd be all over that.. But with my travel and constantly setting up the machine for 5 minutes of welding, I like the Lincoln kit..Still searching for something like or better than the Lincoln, though..
Reply:ESAB makes some lightweight tig machines that might be worth looking at. They are wet weather rated and use a torch mounted valve for gas control. They are 230v and weigh under 20lbs. Thermal arc also makes a small portable unit as well.
Reply:Originally Posted by paperGreat price, but the problem with the Miller's is that the gas is run through the machine, with a selenoid.. I'm only doing a dot of weld, and I have to strike an arc to purge all that line of O to get Argon to the torch.. I'm typically running 40' of hose to the machine, and then need a minimum of 25' of tig hose.. With what I showed, or what I'm currently using, I just plug my + and - to the machine, turn on the argon with the knob at the torch, and within 20 seconds I'm ready to weld..The Miller case in his kit doesn't do me any good, nor does the TIG torch.. The welder unit itself would work, but it's not saving me that much money, and none of this is coming out of my pocket.. I'm just expensing the kit as a needed tool.. I've already got a padded Pelican case for shipping.. Please don't get me wrong.. I appreciate the offer, but the more I look at the current Miller machines, the more I'm looking elsewhere.. It's my application.. If I was in a shop making nice little stainless trinkets, I'd be all over that.. But with my travel and constantly setting up the machine for 5 minutes of welding, I like the Lincoln kit..Still searching for something like or better than the Lincoln, though..
Reply:Originally Posted by FegenbushAlso, what exactly is it that you weld frequently?  If you don't mind me asking, that is.
Reply:Have you ever tried puting quick release type conectors on the hoses? I am getting tired of screwing the gas hose on every time I set up my maxstar. I also thought they might shorten the purge time, because they seal the hose when disconnected. Attached ImagesIan TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:No, I haven't, but I like the thought.. My current purge line is just 0-ring seal that we use on the sides of the paper machine.. It's come in handy to be able to cut out a section of hose when I run into a bad side seal..  I just use a very small hose barb to hold the 0-ring on the fitting, since it's a tight fit, it's not been an issue..I like the thought of not needing wrenches to connect the argon hose.. If I could get away with that, I could just use one for putting the regulator on the gas bottle and the rest would be just snapped together.. Excellent idea!!
Reply:It's a lousy picture but here's what I went to on all my stuff. It's a ISO B series brass in 1/8" size. I like it because it seals both sides keeping dirt and trash out as well as reducing purge time. Attached ImagesMillermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:QDs work great. We made several argon manifolds and hung the regulators off the QDs with no problems. Get brass of course.