Trailer modifications

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So, I am trading my 5x12 single axle trailer for my dads friends tandem axle 16ft because he wants to downsize and i need something bigger.  Anyway before i start, heres a picture of the new trailer.  So its been sitting in the field since 2006, so im going through it and putting buddy bearings, new light system, probably tires.Anyways, I will mainly use it to haul scrap.  I do a few cars so i want to cut down the high sides to regular sides because you cant get out of a vehicle with them like that.  Also it makes it much harder to throw items over the side and impossible to load items with a engine hoist.  And the more weight I save, the better Basically my question to you is how would you go about this?  I know the top rail is detrimental to the structural integrity, so i was thinking to basically take about a foot off above the fender wells and leave about and inch of uprights on the rail and make a lap weld.Also any other ideas to help with haulin scrap,etc.  Been thinking about a winch, additional tiedowns, toolbox, etc.  Any ideas are welcome.  Also dont hesitate to post pictures
Reply:Originally Posted by mlasal1So, I am trading my 5x12 single axle trailer for my dads friends tandem axle 16ft because he wants to downsize and i need something bigger.  Anyway before i start, heres a picture of the new trailer.  So its been sitting in the field since 2006, so im going through it and putting buddy bearings, new light system, probably tires.Anyways, I will mainly use it to haul scrap.  I do a few cars so i want to cut down the high sides to regular sides because you cant get out of a vehicle with them like that.  Also it makes it much harder to throw items over the side and impossible to load items with a engine hoist.  And the more weight I save, the better Basically my question to you is how would you go about this?  I know the top rail is detrimental to the structural integrity, so i was thinking to basically take about a foot off above the fender wells and leave about and inch of uprights on the rail and make a lap weld.Also any other ideas to help with haulin scrap,etc.  Been thinking about a winch, additional tiedowns, toolbox, etc.  Any ideas are welcome.  Also dont hesitate to post pictures
Reply:Sorry if i worded that wrong.  I meant that i know it is nessassary to the structural integrity.  A new top rail is not in the budget.  I am a college student with much more time than money.Also i plan to just cut the uprights in two, leaving a inch or so of the uprights on the rail, take what i want out, gring to clean metal an run a lap joint on the two peicesLast edited by mlasal1; 03-07-2012 at 10:33 PM.
Reply:Cutting down the side rails will definitely effect the structural capacity of the trailer. It's a truss. Make the truss shorter, and you decrease the amount of load a truss can support. How much  the capacity will be reduced isn't something you can just guess at.The only semi good solution I see short of simply getting the right kind of trailer, would be to raise the "deck". If you had a bunch of 6x6's or something that made like a ramp to raise the vehicle height in relationship to the rails, you wouldn't change the capacity  of the trailer. Anything else would require either an engineer to redesign the whole system, or scrap the frame assembly and rebuild the whole thing from scratch.I think you'd be better off starting out with a heavy rated flatbed trailer that you add stake pockets and side walls to if you need both a flat trailer and  one with sides. Take this trailer and sell it to finance the right one..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:The sides are made to carry bulk material like debris and dirt and whatnot.  I dont intend to do this so hence the modifications.  It is rated as a regular 6000lb trailer, just like every other tandem axle angle iron trailer.  I want to have regular height sides but with the solid sheet under the rails which is hard to find hence modifying this one.  I know that the rails make a structural truss.  I also know that shortening them would reduce their strength.  it still has two 3500lb axles just like every other angle iron frame.  I just want the frame to match the axles so to speak.  It has a 5in channel frame, full wrap toungue, etc.  I need it to have the sides to match.  The sides can still hold the load at one foot just like the two foot sides can.  I simply am asking for the easiest way to go about doing this.  And yes i am confident in my welding skills.  It would be stick welded with a 220 machine.  Sorry if i came off rude.Last edited by mlasal1; 03-07-2012 at 11:00 PM.
Reply:Why do you think the whole "Truss" thing has so much to do with structural integrity of the trailer? I would be more concerned about what the axles are rated. From that I can tell the body of the trailer is only there for side/horizontal loads. Maybe the trailer Nazi's will point out something I am not seeing.14' PowerMig 210 MP13'Burntables 5x10 CNC Table14' SAE300 HE on a 12' Ram 4500 60 CA 4x4. Custom bed/bottles/reels.87' SA250d, 78 SA200,11' Ranger 250 GXT AC/DCThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 8112' Lincoln Precision Tig 22508' LN25
Reply:Cut it down, reuse the top rail, use a zip disc to cut it nice, won't affect the structure, if anything it will be stronger in its shorter state.  The sides have nothing to do with the main frame integrity, because chances are, they use the same frame for flatdecks, your shorter sides will have less chance of flopping around, but yes, you must have a top railing.Last edited by MilitiaMetals; 03-07-2012 at 11:02 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by TheJackalWhy do you think the whole "Truss" thing has so much to do with structural integrity of the trailer? I would be more concerned about what the axles are rated. From that I can tell the body of the trailer is only there for side/horizontal loads. Maybe the trailer Nazi's will point out something I am not seeing.
Reply:I understand physicsHere is three different trailers all built by reputable manufacturers that list this trailer as 7000gvwr.  Notice the frame is identical on these and the one i posted.  Mine will actually still be technically sronger because it has the .100in sheet helping hold it square, just like the plywood in the corners on a 2x4 framed house.  I understand your concept that the two foot truss is stronger.  Just like a 2x6 joist is stronger than a two by four.  But in the case of the trailer frame, my trailer is using a 2x10 when a 2x4 is proven to be strong enough every time.
Reply:Resizing that middle picture will let us read ALL of your text (much of it is cut-off on the right side).Lincoln AC225 & MigPak 140, Lincoln Magnum SpoolGun, Miller Spectrum 375-X Plasma, Syncrowave 200 TIG, Millermatic 252 MIG, Miller Digital Elite, General 7x12" horiz/vert bandsaw, 3' box/pan brake, 20 ton press, milling machine, 12x28 lathe, etc.
Reply:Edit sorry.  Here is the textI understand physicsHere is three different trailers all built by reputable manufacturers that list this trailer as 7000gvwr. Notice the frame is identical on these and the one i posted. Mine will actually still be technically sronger because it has the .100in sheet helping hold it square, just like the plywood in the corners on a 2x4 framed house. I understand your concept that the two foot truss is stronger. Just like a 2x6 joist is stronger than a two by four. But in the case of the trailer frame, my trailer is using a 2x10 when a 2x4 is proven to be strong enough every time.
Reply:For scrappin' that trailer is better just the way it is.  You will find more loose stuff to haul than you will car bodies.  Even if you shorten the rail, you still won't be able to open the doors.  Easiest thing to do is to roll down or bust out the window.  You crawl out and then fill the car with scrap.I spent about 3 years working at a scrap yard.  I'd like to think I've seen a thing or two in that area.  I have also hauled a bit of scrap myself.  My advice is to avoid hauling scrap for money unless you can afford to lose.  I won't touch it anymore unless it is mine or I can round up a full load for free.  Even then it's a risk because one destroyed tire can cancel out the money made on that load.  Once in a while when scrap spikes, you have to destroy two tires to cancel out a load, but it's still a very real risk.My name's not Jim....
Reply:I would just cut the side posts down to just above the mudguard, cut off and clean up the existing angle iron railing and weld it back on at the new heightOxy would be by far the easiest way of cutting it
Reply:Ya honestly, im thinking about leaving the sides.  What are some other good modifications to make it more versatile?
Reply:Maybe beef up the tail gate for loading cars.  Make it removable so the magnets can drag scrap out the back.  Add a winch.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmFor scrappin' that trailer is better just the way it is.  You will find more loose stuff to haul than you will car bodies.  Even if you shorten the rail, you still won't be able to open the doors.  Easiest thing to do is to roll down or bust out the window.  You crawl out and then fill the car with scrap.I spent about 3 years working at a scrap yard.  I'd like to think I've seen a thing or two in that area.  I have also hauled a bit of scrap myself.  My advice is to avoid hauling scrap for money unless you can afford to lose.  I won't touch it anymore unless it is mine or I can round up a full load for free.  Even then it's a risk because one destroyed tire can cancel out the money made on that load.  Once in a while when scrap spikes, you have to destroy two tires to cancel out a load, but it's still a very real risk.
Reply:I think you could shorten the sides some, or leave them.  What caught my eye is you said you were going to buy the bearing buddies. Money not well spent if you don't have the axles that go with them.  The exterior greasable axles will have a hollow up the middle of the axle and will actually direct grease to the inner bearing as well.  The add on ones I think you are talking about are really a lot of gimmick. They may or may not grease the outer bearing but do nothing but cause you to neglect the inner bearing. For the amount of times you have to grease, if you are on a budget , just pull them down , check them, grease them , maybe 20 bucks or less in seals and your done unless you drive a whole lot of miles.  go to the dexter axle site and you will see more on this.  Nice trailer overall , make sure you have good TRAILER, not car tires."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251   Syncrowave 300   30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200   1 short hood    SA250    SAM 400
Reply:I'd agree, no longer than it takes to grease what it should have for bearings, and no more frequently then you 'll have to do it, save your money on the bearing buddies.
Reply:Im glad you told me about the bearing buddies not being that great.  Ive always heard they were the best thing since sliced bread.  Definetly need to beef up the ramp.  A tractor or car will dent up that mesh.  I need a cheap clean toolbox idea?
Reply:Don't get me wrong, The bearing buddies on the proper axle are cat's ***. just don't get your bait back by installing half the combination on a regular axle. The advertisements are misleading.   Tool box is easy, Craigslist or tag sale used aluminum diamond plate cross box for S10 or Ford Ranger. I just picked 1 up , nice shape but no keys  $30, but 50-75 is very common if it gives you enough room it is a good way to go. Went to the local lock smith , he takes the number on the lock, key for $10.   Might want to just lay some planks on the ramp when you bring a car of tractor on board, We have found when you carry a skidloader in a dump trailer with the sheetmetal floor that the floor gets all wavy form the weight of the loader. Now we just drop 2x10's on the floor before driving into the trailer bed and the sheetmetal stays good. They are pulled out when you want to fill the trailer with material.Last edited by kolot; 03-09-2012 at 04:50 PM."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251   Syncrowave 300   30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200   1 short hood    SA250    SAM 400