Welding pallet rack beam connector plate to beam

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I'm in the process of filling in the last section of pallet racking on the back wall of my garage.  To get the right fit I need a beam 87" wide, but the only 87s available are 3" height that (1) don't have quite the load capacity I need, and (2) don't fit the inexpensive wire decking that's readily available.  To get the right combination of capacity and size I think I'm going to have to shorten a 96" long, 4" height beam to 87" length.To do this I'll need to cut the connector plate (pictured below) off the long beam, shorten the beam, and weld the plate back onto the beam (also pictured below).  The plate is 3/16" steel and the beam is 14-gauge steel. I'll have easy access to all surfaces so I can get all the joints clean, and I can bevel the beam to ensure a good weld to the plate.  I would have expected the beam to be welded to the plate all the way around, but I've looked at the beams I currently have and they're not fully welded - they're welded on the front, at the bottom, and the top.  There aren't any welds on the back.  The 14-gauge of the beam is formed into the beam shape and tack welded at regular intervals along the seam.At this point I'm planning on using a cold saw to cut the connector plate off & shorten the beam, then gas welding the plate to the shortened beam using RG45 rod & a #4 tip.  I was planning on picking up a cold saw (Evolution Fury 2) anyway so this is a good excuse to pick it up sooner.  I considered SMAW (too hot/burn through) and 110v FCAW (too hot/burn through).  I don't currently have a GMAW welder.Does this sound like a reasonable plan or is there something I'm missing?  And any thoughts as to what the best way to clamp these things together is while I weld (or at least get it tacked)?
Reply:You can cut the 9" off the 14ga beam channel and weld it back together. Add in a small piece of angle below it for reinforcement or if a 1 1/2" or whatever square tube can slide inside of them and then you need minimal welding experience for a better hold.If you do splice the beam channel, don't put the seam in the middle, put it about 4" away from one end. You should be able to weld it together with a 3/32" 6013. Use a 3/32 7018 if you can put in a piece of square tube. 1/8" thick to take the heat from the 7018.Edit: Or you can have a local weld shop do it also.
Reply:Presumably you're installing more than one beam.With multiple beams, fixturing the spacing between the connectors to be as close as possible to the same,square to the beam and parallel to the opposite connector end---helps to allow them to fit into the columns......been there and dun that-it's not as simple as it looksBlackbird
Reply:I recently had to shorten eight 105" beams to 80".  I used a band saw to cut as close to the plate as possible and then cut the beams to length.Before I ground the plate flat, I marked as close as possible to the original spot where it was welded.  It was a bitch to get it lined up.  I used some magnets and shims to hold it for tacking.  A couple were a little off, so it was a little difficult to get them installed.  If not for the lead time, I would have ordered them to size.  The cost per beam is about $8, so we lost money on that one.
Reply:i would not bevel the 14 ga for fear of burning it up..the connector is 3/16 so concentrate the heat there and let the puddle wash over to the beam..but if its beveled the puddle may well eat the thin edge away.. a little heat on the 3/16 connector plates and the 110v fluxcore  should be just fine for this..id stick weld this with 3/32 6011 butt weld tight fitup...might be easist to get it lined up in place..temporarily put it  between the columns, tack and  then take it down to weld..hold with left hand tack with right....
Reply:Originally Posted by 6530. . .To do this I'll need to cut the connector plate (pictured below) off the long beam, shorten the beam, and weld the plate back onto the beam (also pictured below).  The plate is 3/16" steel and the beam is 14-gauge steel.. . .At this point I'm planning on using a cold saw to cut the connector plate off & shorten the beam, then gas welding the plate to the shortened beam using RG45 rod & a #4 tip.I considered SMAW (too hot/burn through) and 110v FCAW (too hot/burn through). . . .
Reply:After cutting and cleaning the pieces, install on racking posts and weld in place. No guess if square.Tim Beeker.
Reply:Originally Posted by tnjindAfter cutting and cleaning the pieces, install on racking posts and weld in place. No guess if square.