Forks for a John Deer compact tractor.

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This is the first complete set of 2 that I have to build.Front loader set.Added a strip of 1/4 x 1 1/4 to the inside of the 4" channel for a bit of extra strength.Was gonna just make them fit on the 3 point also, but we have plenty of material (and time since my TIG machine is on the fritz) soooo...The front forks are removable (even with the guard) but the back ones are boxed in place so all you got to do is drop it, pull the pins and drive off.I used 1/4 wall 2x2 for the frames, 1/4 3" and 6" flatbar for the gussets, 1/4x 1 1/4 flatbar for the guard on the front, and 1/4 4" channel for the forks. All welded with a 220v Millermatic DVI as Zap says...set on KILL If you cant fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem."Boy, everyone starts with a full bag of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience before the bag of luck is empty."-Grandad circa 1990ish
Reply:Now that's a forkin' machine!Nice job.Buy American, or don't whine when you end up on the bread line.
Reply:It looks like you put a lot of thought into the forks as far as the gussets and the stiffiner. That is a great addition for anyone with a frontend loader or 3 point. Nice job.
Reply:Soo you can now carry two pallets at one time. I know someone who might like one or the other of a set of forks like that. I will have to send him a link to this thread and see if he is interested. I just can't be sure if he would want them for the front or back, I'm sure he wouldn't want both though. Now all you need is some JD green paint so they look like factory options to the folks that don't know better. Home Depot has it, that is a match to the JD green with out the JD price, they have the yellow too. It's made by Rustoleum.
Reply:Thanks for the comments guys We just happen to have a whole 5 gallon bucket of "safety yellow" paint. close enough to JD yellow I guess.If you cant fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem."Boy, everyone starts with a full bag of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience before the bag of luck is empty."-Grandad circa 1990ish
Reply:Looks good.  I would recommend a hook underneath the lower cross bar of the frame so that the forks can't tip out accidentally.  I was told that was an important design feature to look for by the dealer I bought mine from.  They said it was a safety issue, FWIW.-DaveXMT304 with: 22A Feeder, or HF251 Hi Freq DC TIG air cooled
Reply:Originally Posted by davecLooks good.  I would recommend a hook underneath the lower cross bar of the frame so that the forks can't tip out accidentally.  I was told that was an important design feature to look for by the dealer I bought mine from.  They said it was a safety issue, FWIW.
Reply:Here's a local outfit for example.  Notice the notch below the lower rail, dead center?  To remove them - You need to slide the forks to the middle where the notch allows them to clear as there is a "hook" that grabs under the lower rail so it can't fall off in use.  The dealer told me it was an issue so it must be one of those things that has happened a few too many times so they now design for it.  You could probably do it the same way they did by welding on a small flat bar below and a hook on the bottom of the fork.Click on the photo or on the Download Specs link for better shots, though it doesn't show it very directly.http://www.virnigmfg.com/index.php?p...mart&Itemid=71-DaveXMT304 with: 22A Feeder, or HF251 Hi Freq DC TIG air cooled
Reply:Originally Posted by davecHere's a local outfit for example.  Notice the notch below the lower rail, dead center?  To remove them - You need to slide the forks to the middle where the notch allows them to clear as there is a "hook" that grabs under the lower rail so it can't fall off in use.  The dealer told me it was an issue so it must be one of those things that has happened a few too many times so they now design for it.  You could probably do it the same way they did by welding on a small flat bar below and a hook on the bottom of the fork.Click on the photo or on the Download Specs link for better shots, though it doesn't show it very directly.http://www.virnigmfg.com/index.php?p...mart&Itemid=71
Reply:It looks like there is enough extra material hanging below the crossbar to drill a couple holes and put a bolt & nut through the plate to keep the forks from riding up. It doesn't take much to keep them down. Looks great, BTW.Millermatic 200Hobart Handler 120Victor O/A & Ramco BandsawLincoln 225 ACSnapOn AD HoodMiller XMT304/22AHypertherm Powermax 1650 G3Lincoln Idealarc DC600 w/Extreme 12 VSMiller Digital Elite "Joker"
Reply:Yeah I think anything that keeps it from popping off from the bottom would be wise.  I guess could see carrying something along and hitting a dip or bump that makes the load rebound and un-weight the forks could cause the problem - dunno.  It shouldn't take much.-DaveXMT304 with: 22A Feeder, or HF251 Hi Freq DC TIG air cooled
Reply:I am making a pallet fork attachment for a Kubota compact tractor now so this item is of great interest.In the units pictured the front set have drop-on clips top and bottom so the forks can't swing out no matter how far forward the rig is curled, as long as the positioning bolts are good and snug.The 3-point set for the back are permanently mounted at the top with square-in-square tube.  I don't see how the forks can swing away from the frame by any appreciable amount with the square-in-square tubing suspension.  Square pegs in closely fitting square holes don't rotate.I was not planning on limiting the forward swing of the fork tines on mine.  I planned on hanging them from telescoping pipe that will permit them to swing forward away from the bottom rail as the loader curl is tipped forward.  The curl of the loader arms permit 180° curl from facing the ground to facing the sky and I didn't want to permit facing the tines at any appreciable downward angle.  A regular fork lift has a limited forward tilt.  But with a compact tractor's extreme forward tilt (for dumping a loaded bucket) this could become problematic should the tines be allowed to dig into the earth, especially forcibly under hydraulic power.  As for a bounce momentarily lightening a carried load, any load should be carried with enough back tilt to prevent it from sliding off the tines.  A slight back tilt keeps the tines resting back against the lower rail while in motion when empty, also.Just my slant.- MondoLast edited by Mondo; 04-02-2012 at 04:04 PM.Reason: spleeing corretshunsMember, AWSLincoln ProMIG 140Lincoln AC TombstoneCraftsman Lathe 12 x 24 c1935Atlas MFC Horizontal MillCraftsman Commercial Lathe 12 x 36 c1970- - - I'll just keep on keepin' on.