Farmer in need

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Sliding Gate Attached Images
Reply:Are you in need of a personal trainer? You know to build enough strength to use your gate.Lincoln Handy mig Longevity Stickweld140Hobart Handler 210
Reply:Nice but I see a huge potential for smashed fingers between the uprights. I'd add some sort of stop to make sure they don't slide all the way together as well as a handle to let you slide it.. The way you have it it doesn't look like there's any way to grab and slide the gate except to put your hand in the pinch area.You also might want to think about putting a small piece of teflon or plastic on the rails to act like a bearing so it slides easier if you ever do another one..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:There is a stop. The C clamp is on its so it kinda blends in in the picture. In the pics with it slid together thats as far as it goes. Its gives 2 " to keep from smashing your fingers. As for sliding and pivoting at this time it is almost effortless even for its size. Reguards to the weight of it, the last one the farmer had his beefers ran right through it, so hes a pretty big fan of overbuild. Great idea with the teflon. Im sure that as it rusts it wont slide aswell the teflon would deffinatly help with that.Last edited by KD Welding; 04-05-2012 at 07:35 AM.
Reply:Your going to need something on those sliding rails.  After the paint wears off it will be a PTA to slide.  If that gate is sitting on the ground I would add some wheels since it's already built.  At the very least grease the rails.
Reply:I think everyone thinks this gate is a lot bigger than it is. At its widest it's only 6' wide. I carried it on my shoulder with no problem and the bottom of the gate is a foot off the ground. There is no paint on it. This gate was installed inside a barn and has been used for over a year with no problems or complaints.
Reply:The size so much isn't the concern, there should be some wheels for it to slide on.  It slides easily enough in the shop but when it gets out there and gets dirt and cow crap on it, it's going to be a pain.  And I'd say if they run at this one they'll bust it up too.  That flat bar looks to take most of the side load when it's closed.  One mad heifer and that gate is going to pull right out of there.
Reply:Your right one angry beef hefer and its done but lets face it when your talking farm animals nothing is safe I dont care how heavy you build it. I grew up on a farm and believe me I know what those animals can do. I have seen them break stuff that most pickup trucks couldn't. With that said the basic design of the gate is just that. You can go to any number of farm supply web site and find a very similar design the only difference being that they use round tube instead of square. The flat stock on the gate is 3/16 and is shimmed 1/8 out from the other part of the gate, same with all the other cross bars they have play built into them to allow for rust, dirt and crap.... Wheels would work good for awhile and its not a bad idea but wheels get jammed up for crap aswell. I think overlaying the rails in plastic is probably the best idea yet. Had this gate been used in a different application than yes I would have spent alot more time puting in rollers or something along those line on it. The flat bar it absolutly the weak point but in the event a cow run through it open replacing a few pieces of flat bar is a lot cheaper than building a whole new gate. I was asked to build it this way by the farmer this is not my design we had gates just like it on the farm 20 years ago. When it plugs up with **** you just got muckle on to it shuck it back and forth a few times then your good to go. Thank you for you suggestions though everyone made some good suggestions. One thing I learned on the farm is stick to "KISS" cows dont care if you build a $200 or a $800 gate they will still try to mess it up.