help on outdoor table

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I'm building an outdoor table using a leftover piece of granite for the top.I'm using 2"x2"x1/8" square tube steel for the legs. I need some information/opinions on whether to close the legs with a plate at the bottom or leave open for any water to drain out? Or a weep hole near the bottom?I made a smaller version a couple of years ago and used the plastic inserts for feet, but water got in and caused a rust stain on the porch. Just don't want to have any rusty parts.It will be powder coated.Thanks in advance for your advice.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:If you close the legs at the bottom, water shouldn't be able to get in, right?Hobart 125 EZHobart Handler 140Everlast STH 160Generic 210 Amp Welder/GeneratorHobart Air Force 500i plasma cutterChinese 50 amp plasma cutter! Youtube Channel : Henrymac100
Reply:That's what I thought on the other one, but apparently it ran in under the granite and into the legs. Maybe I need to seal the top.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Buy some stainless and call it a day.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Yeah, well that or aluminum or plastic or wood. Or just don't build it and it won't rust either.I did not ask for a material recommendation.I want to solve the rust problem using regular steel. Can I get any legitimate replies?Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Ya. Weld a cap top and bottom before you powder coat. You can put the plastic(female-socket) foot on after it's done to keep the powder coat from getting scratched up on the concrete. BTW. Most wood sucks,all plastic sucks and aluminum is useless unless anodized."Solve" a rust problem ? With "regular" steel ? The Sahara is nice.Last edited by Burpee; 11-25-2013 at 04:49 PM.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Let me re-phrase my question.I may not solve the rust problem completely, but will I have less problems by leaving the tube (legs) open at the bottom so no water collects, welding the top and bottom as Burpee suggested, or do something else? If I leave the bottom open the powder coat will reach some of the inside but not if sealed. Is there something other than a rattle can to coat the inside of the tube?I'm sure some of you have figured out what works best. Thank you for any help.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Purge it with dry gas, then seal it fully closed. PC the outside.
Reply:Hot dip galvanized, then powder coated. That should solve any issues, though at added expense (maybe no as much as you might think though). For my stuff I just cap it top and bottom and then drill a weep hole at the bottom.
Reply:This is ignorant. Dip, sandblast, galv,powder coat choke chicken to photo of Helen De Degenerate.JFC . Buy some stainless.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Your overthinking this. Chill.Hobart 125 EZHobart Handler 140Everlast STH 160Generic 210 Amp Welder/GeneratorHobart Air Force 500i plasma cutterChinese 50 amp plasma cutter! Youtube Channel : Henrymac100
Reply:I'd put a 1/4" mouse-hole at the bottom, for a drain. Galvanizing and other plating will help against rust. But make sure your powder-coater approves it.
Reply:Frame the top to set on top of the legs and that would seal the top when welded. You could fill the tube legs with expandable foam after the powder coat and before you put the palstic caps on.
Reply:Weld up all openings. If your welds are "good," you won't have moisture seeping into the legs.  That means no rust internally to leak out and stain your concrete.   Electroplate the outside (or galvanize), then powder coat. Boom, you're done.
Reply:You can put a drip groove in the bottom of the surface.  That will prevent spilled liquid from the running down under the slab and into contact with the legs (assuming the counter top overlaps the legs).  Note that the view in the photo is the bottom of a solid surface counter top.  You can cut any number of ways or bond a drip edge.
Reply:I'd cap the openings, both top and bottom.  Besides, with the caps on the bottom, you'll be able to use some leveling feet.  They do make baller / bling stainless steel leveling feet.  I built these stairs, and used stainless leveling feet.  Been in place for about a year now...no rust.  I think they're about $35 ea. 2x2x.120 wall tube, rattle can galv primed, rattle can  Rust Tough paint. Jet 17.5" Drill Press1942 South Bend 16x84 Lathe1980s Miller 320A / BP --- 2013 Power Mig 2562012 Jet 7x12 Horizontal BandsawVictor O/A Setup
Reply:If you plan on capping all the openings AND electroplating it,  you MUST leave drain holes on the bottom at least a 1/4" for the Plater!  Otherwise any weld bead with a micro crack, groove or pin hole will trap acid from the pickling bath and leak out.  It's extremely common for that solution to constantly "weep" out of welds, because the plating rinse alone is not sufficient without proper drain holes.  I've seen plenty of welded joints leak acid out that cause horrible staining and eventual rust.  I myself have made a few lawn art projects that I plated, only to see constant acid weeping over a year or two later!  (Yes, that happens).  So, if you're going to plate and or galvanize it after the welds, make drain holes on the bottom.  When the project returns to you and it's properly drained and dry internally (due to big enough drain holes), you can cap the holes with rubber  stoppers, silicone or whatever. If you do NOT plan on plating it, no worries then.  The finish won't be as corrosion resistant, but you still can prime it, paint it or powder coat it. Just my advice.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Wb4rt,Unless you cap top and bottom, you're gonna get condensation inside the tube.  That's how the waters getting in there. I doubt it's from things running under the table and into the tubing.  I'd cap the bottom then fill the whole tube with argon while it's warm and no residual moisture is in it and then cap the top.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum