More mig/ stick welds

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Miller 200- voltage 21 wire speed 30 75/25 mix arg/co2 Lincoln 140 Pak MIG Everlast powerarc 140 STLincoln Tombstone
Reply:Lincoln Ac/Dc stick welder DC+ 90 amps with 1/8 electrode. Lincoln 140 Pak MIG Everlast powerarc 140 STLincoln Tombstone
Reply:The pointy ripples tell you your are traveling too fast in a lot of those welds.The stick welds don't look right. You don't list the rod you are using, but it's clearly not 6010/11. 90 amps DC is way too low for most 1/8" rods like 6013, 7014, 7018, unless you are holding a fairly large arc length.  I usually have most students who we have dragging the rod, up around 125ish DC+. That would explain some of what I'm possibly seeing. Another thing that would cause that is if you got those small pieces of plate super hot, say if you just kept running bead after bead, after bead without stopping to cool the piece. All that extra heat will act like you cranked the amps up on the machine.Mig welds also look like they may have some issues. I'll have to look at what "21" is on a MM200, but I think I remember those machines just having a high low and 5 or 6 taps vs a numbered voltage adjustment like the newer machines have. You don't list wire size. 30 on the wire speed makes me think you are using moderately large wire, say .035, but I can't really tell. I see what looks like colder beads on one end of that plate as well. I'm wondering if some of what I'm seeing is also those plates got way too hot and weren't allowed to cool between beads.I'd suggest you run your beads the long ways on the piece, not across the short distance. Running 2 or 3" beads doesn't help you much. When I started learning, we had to do our welds on 12" pieces. That forced us to have to do a restart on each run and made us learn to travel the full run of a stick. I see a lot of students who can do nice welds say 3" long, but as soon as you give them a 6" or 8" piece, they can't run a  decent weld the full run of a rod..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWThe pointy ripples tell you your are traveling too fast in a lot of those welds.The stick welds don't look right. You don't list the rod you are using, but it's clearly not 6010/11. 90 amps DC is way too low for most 1/8" rods like 6013, 7014, 7018, unless you are holding a fairly large arc length.  I usually have most students who we have dragging the rod, up around 125ish DC+. That would explain some of what I'm possibly seeing. Another thing that would cause that is if you got those small pieces of plate super hot, say if you just kept running bead after bead, after bead without stopping to cool the piece. All that extra heat will act like you cranked the amps up on the machine.Mig welds also look like they may have some issues. I'll have to look at what "21" is on a MM200, but I think I remember those machines just having a high low and 5 or 6 taps vs a numbered voltage adjustment like the newer machines have. You don't list wire size. 30 on the wire speed makes me think you are using moderately large wire, say .035, but I can't really tell. I see what looks like colder beads on one end of that plate as well. I'm wondering if some of what I'm seeing is also those plates got way too hot and weren't allowed to cool between beads.I'd suggest you run your beads the long ways on the piece, not across the short distance. Running 2 or 3" beads doesn't help you much. When I started learning, we had to do our welds on 12" pieces. That forced us to have to do a restart on each run and made us learn to travel the full run of a stick. I see a lot of students who can do nice welds say 3" long, but as soon as you give them a 6" or 8" piece, they can't run a  decent weld the full run of a rod.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWThe pointy ripples tell you your are traveling too fast in a lot of those welds.The stick welds don't look right. You don't list the rod you are using, but it's clearly not 6010/11. 90 amps DC is way too low for most 1/8" rods like 6013, 7014, 7018, unless you are holding a fairly large arc length.  I usually have most students who we have dragging the rod, up around 125ish DC+. That would explain some of what I'm possibly seeing. Another thing that would cause that is if you got those small pieces of plate super hot, say if you just kept running bead after bead, after bead without stopping to cool the piece. All that extra heat will act like you cranked the amps up on the machine.Mig welds also look like they may have some issues. I'll have to look at what "21" is on a MM200, but I think I remember those machines just having a high low and 5 or 6 taps vs a numbered voltage adjustment like the newer machines have. You don't list wire size. 30 on the wire speed makes me think you are using moderately large wire, say .035, but I can't really tell. I see what looks like colder beads on one end of that plate as well. I'm wondering if some of what I'm seeing is also those plates got way too hot and weren't allowed to cool between beads.I'd suggest you run your beads the long ways on the piece, not across the short distance. Running 2 or 3" beads doesn't help you much. When I started learning, we had to do our welds on 12" pieces. That forced us to have to do a restart on each run and made us learn to travel the full run of a stick. I see a lot of students who can do nice welds say 3" long, but as soon as you give them a 6" or 8" piece, they can't run a  decent weld the full run of a rod.
Reply:Weld some actual joints!
Reply:Originally Posted by TSCGG13Weld some actual joints!
Reply:Yeah if those were run at 90 amps DC+ with 1/8" 7018, you were holding quite a long arc length. I did a thread where I ran some beads at 100 amps and I had to hold a pretty good arc length to get decent beads. With 7018 you risk porosity in the welds if you hold too long an arc length on them. I'm betting the slag looked like crap before you chipped.90 amps DC is the minimum 7018 rods like Lincoln Excalibur have listed for 1/8". Rods like Lincoln 7018AC list the minimum amps at about 110 on DC. Those beads look way wider than I'd expect on amps that low.I'd crank the amps up to 125 and drag the rod since you are learning. It removes on variable from the equation you have to deal with right now..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWYeah if those were run at 90 amps DC+ with 1/8" 7018, you were holding quite a long arc length. I did a thread where I ran some beads at 100 amps and I had to hold a pretty good arc length to get decent beads. With 7018 you risk porosity in the welds if you hold too long an arc length on them. I'm betting the slag looked like crap before you chipped.90 amps DC is the minimum 7018 rods like Lincoln Excalibur have listed for 1/8". Rods like Lincoln 7018AC list the minimum amps at about 110 on DC. Those beads look way wider than I'd expect on amps that low.I'd crank the amps up to 125 and drag the rod since you are learning. It removes on variable from the equation you have to deal with right now.
Reply:if you're practicing beads i would have run them the long way on the plate also keep a bucket of water handy and a pair of vice grips so you can cool off the plate once in a while. if you only got short practice pieces tack a few together so you can weld out the full length of the rod.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:Originally Posted by docwelderif you're practicing beads i would have run them the long way on the plate also keep a bucket of water handy and a pair of vice grips so you can cool off the plate once in a while. if you only got short practice pieces tack a few together so you can weld out the full length of the rod.
Reply:I can see in your stick welds that your arc length, rod angle and travel speed consistently changed all the way across your beads. You want to keep those the same all the way through your bead. As stated, run 1/8 7018 around 125 amps and hold the arc length very short. Drag the rod on the metal. Keep your travel speed, arc length and rod angle consistent all the way across. Your beads are a bit too wide. Speed up a little and or weave a bit less. At the end of each bead, hold the rod still for a second before you break your arc. This will help fill those ugly craters your leaving at the end of each bead.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by snoeproeI can see in your stick welds that your arc length, rod angle and travel speed consistently changed all the way across your beads. You want to keep those the same all the way through your bead. As stated, run 1/8 7018 around 125 amps and hold the arc length very short. Drag the rod on the metal. Keep your travel speed, arc length and rod angle consistent all the way across. Your beads are a bit too wide. Speed up a little and or weave a bit less. At the end of each bead, hold the rod still for a second before you break your arc. This will help fill those ugly craters your leaving at the end of each bead.
Reply:All the good advice has been said already.Especially cooling the metal. In most WPS's there is a max interpass temperature.. which is a very important specification.And a +1 on running longer beads. I used to practice mig/fcaw with an 18"-24" T plate. It gets you real good real fast at tie ins with a wire feeder and stick. A lot of structural tests may have you run a 12"+ bead with a restart about halfway. Changing your body position while keeping the proper angle will screw up some newer guys, so practice it. Or start welding smaller pipe with stick and get used to it fast. The first time I did a 2" xxl with 6010 and 7018 was a tragedy. I can do it rather nicely now, 2 years later. Also learn to adjust your wire feeder without numbers. As in, don't rely on the settings.