Clear coat for clean steel?

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I have a question about using rustoleum clear coat on clean, no rust, no mill scale, mild steel.  This is basically a yard art project made using 1/2" round bar, bent on a HF compact bender and some scrolls made with 3/16 x 3/4" flat using the scroll attachment, has anyone used the scroll attachment for 1/8th inch material (maybe using a schim) instructions say to use only 3/16.  Anyway like the looks of the shiny clean steel and was wondering about its durability in outdoor environment.
Reply:Don't know how it'll hold up to direct sun, but I've using Flood Penetrol as a primer for bare metal, it's oil base and it is extremely tough and dries clear. They sell it as an additve to paint to eliminate brush marks, I haven't tried it that way. I buy it at Lowes. A quart is $10.  I spray it with no thinning.                                                        MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Thanks for the reply, I will look into that product.
Reply:It won't hold up very long, and scraps off easily. Try using clear guard from sculpt nouveau. Also have had good luck using outdoor poly urethane, get the quick dry stuff from the home store.
Reply:You could have it clear coat pwder coated. That would be the best.
Reply:Thanks, that's something i had not thought about.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerIt won't hold up very long, and scraps off easily. Try using clear guard from sculpt nouveau. Also have had good luck using outdoor poly urethane, get the quick dry stuff from the home store.
Reply:Why wouldn't automotive clear coat work?  Seems like it should, it lasts for years on cars, unless I am missing something here.
Reply:I have a receiver hitch plug on my truck that's metal art I bought years ago. Sprayed it with clear cote from WAL MART and its held up amazing to all the road grime.
Reply:Probably not as important in WHAT you coat it with as in HOW you coat it.You must accidentally coat it while you are pretending to try to coat something else.I have found that even the cheapest paint cannot be removed if you accidentally spill it on a surface it was not supposed to get on.
Reply:They sell it as an additve to paint to eliminate brush marks
Reply:RduffI want the same answer  -  This is my experience.The really good stuff is not in the Home Store / Big Box.Poly-urethane works best on indoor raw metal in the intermountain-west and dryer regions.  Thirty year old pieces look mint.   I would not use it outdoors.Powder Coat / per Bob / is a viable option, P/C boasts a 20 year UV life - but be aware.Generally, Powder Coaters want to: get it done, get the check, and get it gone.  They are not concerned with your art.The two issues with P/C clear-coat is: metal preparation, and gloss.The metal must be prepped.  Sandblast is the universal pep because it is quick - it cleans and provides a tooth.   When color-coated, the surface can't be seen so aggressive and indiscriminate blasting is convention.When clear-coating art, do the surface prep yourself.   Deliver it - scuffed and wiped to your surface tolerance - in a bag.P/C Gloss - I have seen many pieces of decent metal art destroyed by gloss P/C.The artist doesn't know about P/C - and the operator just hears'clear coat'.  So the piece gets 100% gloss - and ruins the piece.Specify: 'Matte or Flat' clear coat, provide test coupons, and pay for the the test run, with the best Coater in your area. The best Power Coaters are former auto painters.The finest Automotive Clear Coat also works well.  Expect to spend a $140.00 plus-plus a gallon, six to eight coats properly allied.And don't discount mla2ofus' recommendation, he produces in a harsh climate and his work looks this good:      http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...nts&highlight=His creativity is owed to having drank Hopper Water.Always open to performance  -  Anyone with better results?Opus
Reply:The Rustoleum rattle can stuff doesn't work outdoors very long.  I've made literally dozens of welded lawn  art projects as gifts for friends and family.  I was using the Rustoleum clear coat "matte" and "gloss" for about two years.  I noticed that after about 4-6 months, intense heat coupled with sprinklers caused rust.   I could never find an "outdoor" poly urithane.  Everything I found was labeled "indoor" use.   That said however, I used the "indoor" stuff and it holds up slightly better than the Rustoleum.  I'm still searching for something more durable but not wanting to spend money on powder coating.  I really love the tough clear coat finish Estwing uses in their new bare metal hatchets, hammers and axes.  I wish I knew what that coating was.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Try some of this stuff......http://www.sharkhide.com/sharkhide_metal_protectant.htm
Reply:Originally Posted by gocirinoTry some of this stuff......http://www.sharkhide.com/sharkhide_metal_protectant.htm
Reply:The jury is still out on the penetrol as the brass is the first time I've used it as a clearcoat w/ sun exposure. Time will tell.                                  MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Rduff - I scroll 1/8" with that scroller all the time (don't use a shime either).  Works just fine, after the making the mods to remove the flat spot every one of those HF units put into the scrolls.
Reply:Thanks Poptm, I was hesitant try 1/8, however it would be easier for me to work with.  As for as the clear coat, I appreciate all the interest sounds like others have had the problem.  I think I will go with a primer and rustoleum hammered silver paint.  I've used the hammered copper and silver several times with good results.  Thanks again for the replies.