6010/6011 dc...

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What is this supposed to look like on the surface? I've seen countless photos of how it looks from the root side, but I honestly don't know how a good 6010 weld is supposed to look on the surface of a butt weld, or say in a fillet weld. If some of you could post pics, that would be great 6011 sems to weld pretty nicely on AC in my opinion, but I can't seem to make it look good on DC to save my life. (Although I haven't spent a lot of trying, admittedly). I have a lot more experience with MIG & TIG than stick welding, and they didn't teach us 6010 in the stick section in school, just 7018.Thanks for any help with thisGive me fuel, give me fire, give me that which I desire.
Reply:I like a whip/pause motion.Let the weld pool build; whip ahead then back. Here is 1 video, check you tube for more.Semper FiJesus may have been a Carpenter, but his dad was a Millwright" A grinder and a can of paint, will make a welder what he aint' "I've done so much, with so little, for so long, that now I can do anything with nothing!
Reply:6010 & 6011 are basically the same rod but they have different fluxes. 6010 is a DC rod & 6011 is an AC rod.Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.                                         -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:Right, I understand that 6011 is essentially the same as 6010 when run DC+, but has arc stabilizers added into the flux that allow it to be run on AC as well. I actually liked how it ran on AC, although I ran it without any real "manipulation" of the rod. But I can't make a nice looking bead on DC to save my life, it feels likeI've heard and read countless times that 6010 is a whip and pause rod, and that's how I ran it (Or tried...?), but It seems to make an ugly bead, just really "rough". I guess I'm trying to figure out if it's me contributing to that, or if it's just the nature of the beast?Maybe I should rephrase my question... Is it possible/normal to make a nice looking 6010 weld bead? If so, how should  an ideal bead look? I guess mine didn't look all that much different from Jodi's in the video, so maybe I'm on the right track after all. Thanks for helping so far guys. I might just need to fucus on not traveling so far with each "whip"Last edited by Primetime; 10-03-2011 at 02:03 AM.Give me fuel, give me fire, give me that which I desire.
Reply:I wouldn't use it to cap anything with haha..
Reply:I actually whip a lot more than Jody does, but the end result is still tight ripples.I am around 95 amps for 3/32- 7018 & 1/8- 6010.I also don't cap with 6010, it's my root rod then cap with 7018.You can drag 6010 if you get the amps just right, but it has a tight heat zone +/- 5 amps.If you want to drag it, keep turning it down 5 until you find that zone.Hope that helpsSemper FiJesus may have been a Carpenter, but his dad was a Millwright" A grinder and a can of paint, will make a welder what he aint' "I've done so much, with so little, for so long, that now I can do anything with nothing!
Reply:its definetly possible to get a nice looking bead with 6010. it shold look like a stack of dimes when done right. the distance between the ripples will be determined on how close you bring the rod back to the edge. ths rod is really hard to explain. after a few months of stick welding, 6010 became my rod of choice. of course i had to be good with 7018 also for the caps. i got some pics if you want to see them.
Reply:I don't know what lens he is using in his camera, but it's not dark enough.You really can't see the weld pool and notice the orange line left by the heat.I darken my lens to where you don't even see the slag puddle. I don't weld by looking at the slag, only the weld pool.That lens needs to be 2 shades darker for me. I like a shade 11 or 12 for 95 amps and up.It's just how I like it, but to each their own.Semper FiJesus may have been a Carpenter, but his dad was a Millwright" A grinder and a can of paint, will make a welder what he aint' "I've done so much, with so little, for so long, that now I can do anything with nothing!
Reply:Originally Posted by skelley521I don't know what lens he is using in his camera, but it's not dark enough.You really can't see the weld pool and notice the orange line left by the heat.I darken my lens to where you don't even see the slag puddle. I don't weld by looking at the slag, only the weld pool.That lens needs to be 2 shades darker for me. I like a shade 11 or 12 for 95 amps and up.It's just how I like it, but to each their own.
Reply:Originally Posted by jpmillerits definetly possible to get a nice looking bead with 6010. it shold look like a stack of dimes when done right. the distance between the ripples will be determined on how close you bring the rod back to the edge. ths rod is really hard to explain. after a few months of stick welding, 6010 became my rod of choice. of course i had to be good with 7018 also for the caps. i got some pics if you want to see them.
Reply:Agreed, but some videos are better at showing the weld pool than others at times.I don't know anything about those welding cameras and I've seen some videos just use a welding helmet.If I had a hood on and saw what the video looks like, I would say there was a shade 9 lens in that hood.I like a green/gray looking puddle and was hoping readers didn't think that the weld pool should look 'bright-white'.When I'm arc welding, it looks like a dime size puddle of mercury per se, and I focus on the toes of the weld.Shade 11 works good for me and if I use a shade 12, it forces me to keep a proper arc length so I can see the area ahead of me in my peripheral vision, if that makes any sense.Generally shade 11 until I go over 125 amps, then I bump up to a 12.Anyhow, I need more coffee and time to finish waking up....lol.Semper FiJesus may have been a Carpenter, but his dad was a Millwright" A grinder and a can of paint, will make a welder what he aint' "I've done so much, with so little, for so long, that now I can do anything with nothing!