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Hi, 6 inch pipe.1/8 gapnickel landing6010 rootAmperage is around 65 - 70 depending on fitup.I'm struggling to maintain a proper keyhole and motion in 5-6-7 oclock position.I've tried kneeling, arms tucked to my chest and I have no bracing. I'm am wavering all over.I've tried folding the rods in half to help control the waver.I've tried posting up off a crescent wrench on lower lip, canted towards me. Left forearm on wrench and can't seem to twist and bend enough to get down there to see my weld. If you could explain to me or link me to a site regarding proper positioning.Any tricks or tips ??????//thanks.........
Reply:Haha well i see your problem already. Your parameters could definatly be tweaked. Try a 3/32 landing, and run a 1/8" 6010. I personally run 79 to 82 amps on my roots depending on the machine of course. So you seem a little cold on your amperage also. I dont know what diameter of rod you are running? but your gap is far to large in my opinon. Id go with less of a gap and more heat. I use slightly more than a 1/8" gap for my tig roots.Your keyhole configuration is always dependant on your rod angle, you should be square to the pipe the entire way around, learn to roll your wrist. Pipe welding takes practice. In your situation where i assume your in a testing envrioment, always start uncomforatable and finish comfortable. I would learn to start off by kneeling or bending down to start your overhead portion and slowly start to stand up as you rotate around the pipe. For my newer apprentices i always suggest holding the rod with one or two fingers while resting the heel of your palm on the pipe as a guide per say.
Reply:Great advice above. I would add that a long time seasoned welder will run as hot as Pressure Welder does above, but if you are new, you are best to start out about 70 amps and make adjustments from there. I know lots of guys that run85 amps from root to cap, but those are the guys that have been doing it for 25 years.You are on the right track.UA Local 598
Reply:Its all about what your comfortable with regarding heat and how much you can control. I would be very careful on how cold you go. 70amps on a 1/8" 6010 is about max in my opinion. Heres some advice on welding pipe in this fashion. The second you change your amperage all parameters generally have to be adjusted "as your learning" if you weld at 70amps your going to need a larger gap or you will not obviously burn through and be able to maintain a keyhole. With a larger gap your introducing more filler material than is nessecary to do the weldment, which in turn is going to create more distortion. Some of the positives of running a hotter root is having a nice flat root bead on the bevel side where essentially all you need to do is run a file along each edge and a quick wire brush. Now running a cold root you will have the characteristics of a high crowned bead and without a doubt some serious slag inclusions which will need to be ground out. Also with running colder roots, weather it be xray, or destructive you greatly increase your risk of incomplete fusion which at some times can be very hard to pick up visually. In my opinion i throw my apprentices right into it, its going to be extremely difficult at first but you learn as you go along, and one day it just clicks.
Reply:Ive got to disagree with you on that PW. 3/32 and 70 amps is the standard in my hall. Once you establish the keyhole, you just have to keep it consistent. But it does depend on how comfortable your are with the heat you are running.UA Local 598
Reply:WHughes, definatly 70 amps for a 3/32 6010 is more than adequate. But if running a 1/8" 6010, 70 amps is about as low as you would want to go.
Reply:I greatly appreciate the responses and input.Yeah, been running a 1/8th 6010 rod.....Moved into a 3/32nd gap. At your suggestions.Alright, My positioning today: (Instructor encouraged)Bottom of pipe about navel high.Crescent Wrench angled down, and canted slighty towards me on lower lip of pipe.Scooted in as close to pipe as possible and place of left forearm on crescent.-------Pivot around, down, and under the pipe. i.e. Swivel Clockwise. Slight bend in legs and most bend at waist.-----------------Trying to keep wrist cocked to the side and maintain proper angle.-----------------------Electrode is folded to half length.--------------------------------Strike arc and complete confusion!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!There has to be another way to make this work.I can't seem to see the puddle, it's on the backside, and with my wrist to the side it's extremely difficultI know this is hard to envision, as it's hard for me to decribe through words.I might need some pictures tomorrow.
Reply:Pressure Welder? Originally Posted by Pressure_Welder I would learn to start off by kneeling or bending down to start your overhead portion and slowly start to stand up as you rotate around the pipe. For my newer apprentices i always suggest holding the rod with one or two fingers while resting the heel of your palm on the pipe as a guide per say.
Reply:You have to contort your body into many positions in the field jsm. Ive been in so many different postiions in the boiler and other various confined spaces you just have to learn to adapt. I would go a little higher than naval, say half way up your chest. so that when you get to the top your still able to see what your doing. Then place yourself on whichever side of the bevel you'd like and bend your knees so you can see your tack on the bottom of the pipe. Start at the very back of your tack to warm it up and blow through and start your key hole. The key thing is to stay calm! reassure yourself that you can do it, take deep breaths before each pass.
Reply:Here is what works good for me3/32 6010 5p+ rod at 60-65 amps.STRONG 3/32 land.3/32 root gap.I whip my root in.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:I really dont think its going to do you any good to have people online tell you how to position your body, but I understand your frustration so heres how I do it.Left elbow on pipe to steady myself, stinger in right hand electrode straight out, full length. Start off kneeling and stand as your coming around, but on most size pipe I can finish off a rod on my knees. I run light 3/32 land, heavy 3/32 root and 1/8" 6010 5p+ at 75ampsHave we all gone mad?
Reply:sn0border88 your sick......."on most size pipe I can finish off a rod on my knees." this is a web sight about WELDING...ya pervert....just kidding,i am having the same problem...i keep getting blow-out at about 2 and 10 o-clockand the root is not too consistent. by the way i have a similar set up as above6'' pipe 1/8 6010 root1/8 gapland from 3/32-3/16 (I'm experimenting with it)and usually about 66 amps for the root, from what i read above, that's way too low.i know its mostly personal preference, but i have been experimenting with most of the variables, ie- speed, arc length, root gap, land size, positioning, and rod angle.i have only been working on the 5g for about 4 days now, doing about 3-5 pipes a dayi have not had any problems with the filler and cap, its just the root that's the problem.i appreciate the tips everyone has posted, they gave me a few ideas.I attend Tulsa welding school, and am supposed to test out of phase 5 today...but that damn root it my only problem, hope i can get it down todaythanks again,z.
Reply:Build yourself a pallet to lay on, cover up with a welding blanket.
Reply:master.mig I go with 1/16 inch land, and 1/16 + inch gap with 1/8 inch 6010. Use the cut and fill technique, about 65 to 70-amps. Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400 |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:22:58