Stick welding Stainless steel

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Hey guys, Figured this would be a good one for a first post...I'm in a bit of a predicament. One of my hobbies is a rather close knit community and they are very specific of what they buy. Although my current product works, and is better constructed and more fluent than those sold by retailers, it is made of mild steel. The issue I have ran into is the fact that the clientele all want them in stainless. The reason I'm running to stick is for a few issues;I love SMAW (currently taking Stick pipe in hopes of passing a 6G WABO test...)I can't TIG well enough to do it that way.I dont feel like changing gases for the MIG and buying wire. Besides, if I can figure out welding SS with SMAW, it could pay off later in life come career time?I have never welded stainless, I'm aware of the risks involved due to the chromium and plan to take precautions. I plan on using 304 3/8" round stock for this entire project as that is what the original plans of mild steel were made of, and using 308-16 rod. All the welds are within 15 degrees of flat, and if anything up hill. I am confident I will be able to weld them but I just recently (IE hour ago) was told about passivation... After talking to a retired welder, he mentioned he never passivated the 304 he welded and never had a problem. My questions are;Should I just learn and practice doing it with TIG?Does 304 need passivation?Any tips for welding it with SMAW? The product itself will be outside as that is its primary place of usage. And part of it will be under the ground. I'm assuming the clientele will leave them out in the rain, sun, snow, etc.Thanks,-Matt
Reply:Hey bud, Stainless Stick is a tricky process. Most stainless doesnt like uphill however you can get good results by stacking tacks. Tack pull off let it cool for just a second then put another tack just above it. I learned this a long time ago from an old school pipe welder and it worked great. Remember stainless doesnt need the same amps as mild. Use about 1/3 less amps on stainless. Example if your running 3/32 7018 at 80-90amps then stainless 3/32 rods you would use about 50-65 amps. Heres a trick we also learned. The type of electrode you use makes a huge difference also. I HIGHLY reccoment Lincoln Electric  Excalibur® 316/316L-15 Electrodes. These work fantastic and are pretty much all position. Heres the specs below. Good luck bud let us know.AWS: E316-15, E316L-15.Top FeaturesQ2 Lot® - Certificate showing actual deposit chemistry and calculated ferrite number (FN) available online Designed with low carbon levels to help eliminate carbide precipitation in high temperature serviceMolybdenum grade for increased corrosion resistanceFlux coating is fast freezing for vertical down welding and slag is self-peeling for easy removalSmooth bead appearance with evenly spaced ripples and flat faceTypical ApplicationsMolybdenum bearing austenitic stainless steelsType 316 and 316LWelding PositionsAll
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