Help welding 6G stick pipe

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Having problems with the cap weld on 6g bottom portion part of the pipe. Just wondering if theres any tricks or tips!SCH 60?70 included angle bevel1/16th face/land6G down hill1/8 6010rod110-115ampsmotion elongated zigzag
Reply:Your using 6010 for the entire joint?Letting your joint cool before capping may help a bit.Your amperage seems a bit high for me. I run 1/8 6010 at the same amperage I run 3/32 7018 at. 85-90 amps for me.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:1/8th 6010 all the way. I let it cool down for a bit but the bead hump more then 1/8th of a inch and have under fill at the top of the bead. As for the amps I tried 90ish but looks too cold but Ill try it again.
Reply:What machine are you using? 80 would be high on my machine. For a flatter bead capping, I long arc it. That only works on downhill.Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.                                         -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:down hill? thats crazy...
Reply:Machine is miller pipeworx 400. How much of a arc length you have between work piece and tip of electrode?
Reply:Amps are good for downhill, Fairly tight arc for any rod over-head or close to it. Is your pace slower or same as every other position? Siddy-ten stacks like a bastard downhill....Lincoln Power MIG 210 MP ( boat anchor )Lincoln Weld-Pac 100 HDHobart IronMan 230Cutmaster 42Jackson NexGenSumner Ultra ClampsDWM120
Reply:My welding pace is about the same as other positions...maybe I need go bit faster?About to start welding going up hill on pipe now.
Reply:Originally Posted by BenDoverMachine is miller pipeworx 400. How much of a arc length you have between work piece and tip of electrode?
Reply:Originally Posted by gizzardgutzWelding with 5p, 5p+ the arc length is practically non existent downhill or any position. What I call long arcing is maybe a touch more than 1/8" and only used when capping. No stepping, no Us, Js or any elaborate weave. Edge of the bevel to edge of the bevel keeping the rod tip just under the puddle about 10 to 15 degree angle. It takes practice but places a flat cap, not crowned so the fill pass has to be level with the pipe or the cap will be concave. It has been years since I've done this, but I did it too many times to not know what I'm talking about. I think I'm going to have to go into the shop and do it with photos to prove it. Problem there is I can't take photos while welding but I can show the results of each pass.
Reply:Originally Posted by BenDoverNow im having problems cap welding 7018 on the Vplate in the overhead position. Its just has a big crown in the middle of the weld. The fill pass is flat with about 1/16th to the top and im using a weave motion pausing at the sides. Running 7018 rods frustrates me .
Reply:They want a weave cap on the final weld.Running stringers would so much better then single pass cap.
Reply:Originally Posted by BenDoverRunning stringers would so much better then single pass cap.
Reply:overhead has far too much misconception. It is truely identical to flat and weaving a cap is peanuts, i generally weave all my caps on pipe with a 6010 root, and tig roots. Depending on diameter of pipe/wall thickness. use the same procedure as a vertical, quick across the middle and pause on the sides.
Reply:Originally Posted by Pressure_Welderoverhead has far too much misconception. It is truely identical to flat and weaving a cap is peanuts, i generally weave all my caps on pipe with a 6010 root, and tig roots. Depending on diameter of pipe/wall thickness. use the same procedure as a vertical, quick across the middle and pause on the sides.
Reply:Unless you're welding a 300-feet in diameter pipe, over head on pipe is a very short distance.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:when i first started welding before i had pressure tickets, i had a 1" plate all position cwb test i had to complete for a company, keep in mind i was in grade 11 at this time. ( working weekends etc) this test was specific to this company as they made huge structural members ( colums, trusses etc) the test plate was 2 feet long x 1" and i believe the included angle was 70* with a 1/2" backing strip, 5/32" 7018 OR you could use 3/16" which i did until i reached the cap. It took me 2 days to finish all 4 positions. Being only 17 years old i felt pretty cool doing my first test but it was an absolute breeze. My cap on my overhead looked VERY similar to my flat, its all in travel speed and rod manipulation my friend. I filled up that plate to be almost completely flush for my overhead, in doing this you can frickin cruise with your caps, with a 5/32" rod i could get about a foot down the plate, its hard to explain how fast you can move but im super fast across the middle and pause on the sides for half a second or less? with filling the plate almost flush with your filler you eliminate your need for pausing longer to fill to prevent undercut, The faster you go the less chance you have of gravity working against your puddle and making it want to sag. I must say though, after that overhead test my neck sures to hell hurt!
Reply:Originally Posted by Pressure_WelderI must say though, after that overhead test my neck sures to hell hurt!
Reply:Actually easier than I thought it would be. If I put a little more time and effort into it I'm sure I could make it look better. Learned something today!  Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Been practicing the 7018 overhead 5g position on pipe and still having it humping problem on the cap. Its getting better as I keep on practicing(not as much hump). I lowered my amps to 85-90ish just barely to where it sticks and moving somewhat fast with a tight arc.Seems like im still moving too slow or weave is too tight to cause it to hump. Just to mess around I ran a 3/32 7018 cap, it look better then the 5/32 7018!( must be my weave motion or speed?). Guess I have to keep practicing but I appreciate the help guys!
Reply:Originally Posted by BenDoverBeen practicing the 7018 overhead 5g position on pipe and still having it humping problem on the cap.
Reply:"FINALLY, somebody agrees with me------flat and overhead are IDENTICAL-----cept the $hit falling on you."Ain't that the truth!
Reply:Though I am still a student, I just got done testing on 6G stick, and at first I kept blowing through on the root.  I had been using 6010 rod and amps around 85-90.  After turning down the amps to 75-80 (really low, I know), and long arching each step, I was able to get the root down with no blow through and a really nice flush root.  75-80 amps is low as hell but it worked for me.Read my welding blog:http://weldeveryday.wordpress.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by Nightman_Cometh75-80 amps is low as hell but it worked for me.
Reply:60ish amps on what size electrode?!?!? That awful low which it sticks alot lol.High amp = moving fasterLow amp = moving slowCEP thats nice pen you got there on that pipe. You weave, step or drag the root? Also what postion you welding it?I'm not very good with pipe so I have to use the cut and fill method for the root pass. I only use 1/8 inch rod for the root pass. I turn the arc force all the way up for the root, then all the way down for the hot and cap when using 6010. Looking at the cap I'd say that 2 inch pipe was done in the 5-G position.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:In most cases on my mild steel pipe depending on wall thickness i use 1/8". Of course with a smaller wall thickness it takes more skill to run that 1/8" 6010 as apposed to a heavy wall. For instance on a particular header job i did for the blow down tank on our boiler, i had some roots on some 6" sch 160 pipe, Roughly 11/16 to 3/4" wall thickness. I run my root in at 82amps with 1/8" 6010, 3/32" land and 3/32" gap. I always whip my roots because i find dragging has too much uncertainty atleast with a keyhole you can visually see that your burning both edges. Then on this job or even on my 2" sch 160, i will run my hotpass and filler pass's at 92ish amps with 3/32" 7018, this goes for my 9018-b3 chrome ticket as well. ALL weaves i dont run stringers on my fill passes. Even on my cap's on heavy walled pipe in 6g or whatever position iam take 2" sch 160 for instance in a testing situation. provided im testing with a 6010 root and not a tig root, i will start my weave and weave the entire width of the bevel and i just KISS the top side of the bevel until she burns away and then back down and repeat, at 92 amps you really have to move with 3/32 but at this heat it creates a VERY smooth asthetically pleasing bead and garuntees your burning any crap out "which their shouldnt be anyways if your passes are sound" Its hard to explain how fast i move but i am able to reach bottom to top in maybe 15 seconds? When i finish that pass the pipe looks like a cap that has undercut on the top edge and thats what i want. I then take a 1/4" stone grinding disc that has been well used! and has a perfectly rounded edge NOT a square edge. I take my angle grinder and put it on edge, and i grind a perfect little groove slightly into my existing cap pass, and use the grinding wheel to just catch that edge of the bevel or "undercut" area and then run a fast hot stringer. I do this because our high pressure examiner wants 2 passes or else id weave the entire thing. Same procedure applies for my tig root'd pipes but just requires you to repeat the steps as per the width of the bevel.
Reply:Update instead of running the weave on the cap pass I ran stringers and the came out ok. Now on to tig root and fill then 3 stringer with 7018 for cap on 6g uphill sch40. Having problems doing root pass on the right side of the pipe. On the left side I prop my on the pipe and weave. I know you suppose to walk the cup but its feel like it impossible. I tried walking the cup at first on the left side, couldnt get the cup to walk smooth enough to weave. Gave the cup a small radius on the edges and tried different positions. The torch is a flex head and a standard cup(8?) ...any tips on walking the cup with both hands?
Reply:Originally Posted by BenDoverany tips on walking the cup with both hands?
Reply:nice root cep!
Reply:Originally Posted by Pressure_Weldernice root cep!
Reply:sch 40 mild steel pipeInclude angle 70root face none or 1/16th maxroot opening 1/8thfiller 1/8thCEP- Im try mess with it more by giving the cup round edge  and round out the bevel to see itll help.
Reply:I like a knife edge, (no land) 3/32 inch gap, with 1/8 inch filler, 3/32 inch tungsten, around 90-amps. It boils down to torch angle, tungsten stick out, and the amount of pressure you put on the torch, and travel speed. I also run over the filler no dipping until the hot pass, and sometimes no dipping until the fill pass.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400