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Hello,I am trying to design a welding table as one of my first projects.I am going to be using 1/4" steel Tabletop. I won't go anywhere thicker because of the cost and the weight.But on the other hand I am worried about 1/4" warping and deforming so I figured I need to make a sturdy frame for the underside of the tabletop. Above is a picture I have of 3 configurations I thought of. The first and second uses flat bar on it's side and the third uses square tubing.Which frame configuration do you think would be the best?
Reply:your designs are framed /designed to carry weight, but when you weld the underside of the 1/4 plate to the framing it is gonna distort..do tiny welds scattered around to minimize it. only way to truly avoid it is make the top so thick that whatever heat it sees gets dissipated before it heats up a spot to the point where it wants to expand..then it expands into a cold spot that dont wanna expand and you get a dimple..
Reply:Looks to me, what you save in the cost of a thicker table top. You'll spend in material and labor in the framing.Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:3rd style. I probably would not do the center cross if my plate is nice and flat to start with. What are your dimensions, 24x48?Lincoln SA200, HH135, Lencospot, HF80 Inverter, Rockwell 11x35 lathe, HF drill mill, Kama 554 tractor w/ FEL & BH, Belarus 250AS, lot's of Chinese tools
Reply:Square Tube.
Reply:@ silhorn - excellent choice for a 1st project! Dwell on what 'CEP' said. Each of your designs will work, it's how you attack the problem and the cost/schedule to do so that makes the difference. Best, as always, is subjective. The "weldability" of the structure is key. Search the forum for threads on welding table design/builds. Many unique approaches, but at the end of the day you want a table that is stable and rigid with a flat top surface. Recommend a design a la Style #3, without the inner "x", using 2" x 2" x 3/16" HSS frame welded to 1/2" thick top. As 'weldbead' mentioned, stitch welding and backstopping for the top to support interfaces is the welding technique. Your overhang feature for the top surface is spot on. Attached image was my first table design/build. If you're into understanding "why?" things are designed/built/welded the way they are, recommend purchasing the following tech references:~ Design of Welded Structures, Omer Blodgett, James F. Lincoln Foundation, 1966~ Design of Weldments, Omer Blodgett, James F. Lincoln Foundation, 1963Both references are written for the fabricator, welder, designer and are replete with sketches and images. Continue to ask questions and post pictures of your build. Best fortune in your journey. Attached Images"Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:i would go with a similar design to the right side only without the long center brace. 4/5 pieces across the narrow dimention is plenty. if the bench top is only a 1/4" i would go right to the edge with the frame.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:Thanks for the advice guys.I guess I will go for third design. I am worried about warping from welding the frame on so I was thinking of an alternate way of drilling some holes through the square tubing and tapping a thread half way through the plate and then bolting the frame on. Also, the overall table is 48 x 24 but I am planning to split it into 4 pieces 12 x 24 (shown in my pictures would actually be 1 of the pieces) which are removable from the frame for easy and light mobility and when assembled will have about an inch gap between each piece for clamping.Last edited by Silhorn; 02-10-2014 at 05:45 AM. |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:20:39