TIG question, why is the power cable inside the gas supply line? how to repair it?

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I was looking over my gas supply hose and found a hole in the hose, I go to cut it and put a barb and find a power cable inside, I'm assuming the reason for making it inside is to insulate the power cable and perhaps cool it as well, is this correct?So how do repair it, the hole is near the torch?Is there a way to rig it so the power cable goes straight to the tungsten?
Reply:Are you using an air or water cooled torch,  usually the coolant return flows through the same line as the power cable.  but yes the gas flow will add a small amount of cooling.  don't think  its very significant in an air cooled torchTiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:air cooled
Reply:also if it was water-cooled, wouldn't the coolant  just corrode the power wire? just doesn't seem right water and wiring mixed together.
Reply:Called the local gas supplier he was nice enough to answer my questions, says there is no way to repair a one piece cable/hose, but i'll figure out a way.
Reply:Originally Posted by kazx9ralso if it was water-cooled, wouldn't the coolant  just corrode the power wire? just doesn't seem right water and wiring mixed together.
Reply:Self amalgamating tape, or even electrical tape.
Reply:You can also get a 2 piece power cable for most TIG torches, where the gas hose and power cable run seperately. Looks like they run around $90. I prefer the one piece, though.
Reply:Western Enterprises sells the end fittings (without which one could not create TIG cables in the first place).  They crimp in place, and since the copper cable is stretchy you can crimp the center conductor then pull the hose over it and crimp the outer ferrule.Look here and scroll down:http://www.westernenterprises.com/en.../fit_inert.php
Reply:What kind of torch is it? You should be able to just order a new hose and swap it out. Parts usually aren't too expensive. It's worth looking into.KevinHobart Handler 210Tweco Fabricator 181iLincoln Squarewave Tig 175
Reply:Now that you cut into it you might as well just get a new one.  Intresting you can get a fitting though.  One time I acutlly successfully shortned a water cooled power cord at the torch end but it was pretty tough /close to failure.  I have had pretty good success using some aluminum gutter sealant made by alcoa.  It comes in a tube similar to toothpaste.  You have to wait about two weeks with it in a warm spot and can run a running half hitch of nylon string over it if desired after it is pretty much cured.  Then you keep it for a spare for the next time you burn a hole in the new one with the hot tungsten or something like that.  If you don't have some sort of protector for the hose or hoses if water cooled you should probably have a spare on hand.  Wandering around on this site I read about different materials for power cables, mine sure weren't rubber like.
Reply:Getting a new cable would be the best way to fix your problem of finding your cable with a "hole" in it.  (And I would also recommend determining how the "hole" got there, and taking steps to avoid this expensive situation from happening in the future.)  If abrasion caused the hole, there are cable covers available that can protect against it.  I would recommend the leather ones.  If the hole was caused by the overheating conductor inside to the point that it "melted" a hole in the cable surrounding it, your torch has inadequate power and duty cycle rating, and you should upgrade it to one with higher power and duty cycle rating.  CK worldwide makes them up to 200 amps @ 100% duty cycle.And to answer your question, the cable is inside the gas supply line increases flexibility, decreases bulk, and increases the cooling of the cable (Allowing it to be a smaller diameter than if it were not cooled by the inert gas.)
Reply:Don't throw away the cable.We made some VERY useful stick-welding stinger whips out of dead TIG cables (students kill lots of them).That few feet of light, flexy whip is quite nice. I cut the TIG cable end fitting just past the "flare" and slide off the threaded fitting, then squash/wrestle the ends into my stinger and cable connector. You have to keep after them because they pull out somewhat easier then heavier lead, but they are super comfortable for stick welding.The guys who trained me were pipe welders and said it is a common trick in the field.