Lincoln V-310 invertec

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We recently acquired a Lincoln Invertec welder. The machine comes with a lot of bells and whistles as far as adjustments go.  I previously welded with a Lincoln TIG 300/300. It was 70's vintage and of course analog technology.   My question on the new welder is this. I now have the ability to adjust the frequence or pulse when TIG welding with DC. Being the 300/3000 machine was straight DC it was not adjustable.  What is the criteria for using that mode ? I primarily weld mild steel and stainless steel.Randy
Reply:Two benefits potentially from using pulse.Pulse lowers the average heat put into an object.  On stainless you might notice that the distance on your pedal between too hot and too cold is a bit bigger.  As you may have guess that if you turn on pulse, say 50% duty cycle, you will have to up your peak current to get the same penetration.  On out of position welding, the pulse might make the puddle freeze a bit faster - or actually give it a chance to freeze.  You end up setting the high current (or normal power) a bit higher than you normally would, and you set the background current just above were the puddle would freeze.  Yes, if you run at 10 amps, eventually the puddle might completely freeze, but you are only running at the background rate for a split second.On thinner stuff, try setting pulse frequency to 150pps, and background to 25%.  Set your main current to whatever you need to get the penetration you want.  See what you think.I find it a bit easier to control the overall heat, but I also find that I'm more likely to go cold and I have seen a perfectly round puddle freeze in ugly ways (I think it was cooling too quickly). Secondly, high frequency tends to focus the heat.  Not something you might want on an outside corner, but maybe an interesting option when the gap isn't quite big enough.That being said, a couple things about inverters.If the machine maxes out at say 350Amps, that's all you got.  You add pulse and the effective heat might only be 250 Amps.  Sure its more focused, but your maximum heat that you can put into an object goes down.  If you are already struggling with that 3/8" steel, you might find yourself welding cold.I can't speak for pros, but I suspect the real craftsman can do just fine without pulse.  Call it a crutch.What you will rarely find is anyone calling out exactly how to setup the machine.  In the end, its kinda up to what you like.  You will have to experiment to figure out what is best for you.   For the times when someone throws a one of job at you, I think you will find turning pulse off gives you more predictable results.  Keep notes.Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX
Reply:You have one heck of a machine.   AC / DC correct?   Does it do pulsed spray Mig?I do fine with out pulse.  I try it now and then more to time my dips than anything else.  DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I weld on a Dynasty 300 DX, at work, which is similar (bit less powerful, and fewer features) to the Lincoln 300. At home I've got  Lincoln invertec 205 AC/DC inverter. I love welding Aluminum with the inverter. Generally speaking 120 Hz and 85% DC Neg is a good starting point. In my experience Ceriated tungstens work best on inverters for AC, due to their good arc starting qualities. I can weld very nicely at 300 amps with a 1/8" Ceriated tungsten, with a tip sharpened at about 30 degrees giving very good control and without putting much wear on the tungsten either. Inverters can pulse in AC and DC. I've played with AC pulse, but don't have too much torch time with it. The DC pulse is great for doing the lay wire technique where you basically leave the rod in the puddle. DC pulse is also great when you are welding near an edge that you want to preserve, such as welding a plate on the end of a tube to cap it.  That machine looks sweet, I'd love to play with one of those! Here's a trick, for doing small consistent tacks using pulse. Set the machine up like this: pre-flow ~1sec, post flow ~1 sec, Pulse settings ~.5 pulse per sec, 5-8% peak time, 10 amps base. You'll have to adjust amps based on what you're tacking, but for 16 gauge stainless, around 100 works pretty well. Set your torch where you want it. Push the peddle and in one second you will get a very short hot burst of current, which slopes down very rapidly. Take your foot off the peddle before the next pulse, and you've probably got a very nice tack, repeat and you will have another very consistent tack. It's best to set the amperage control to panel, and if you're doing a lot of tacking, it's even better if you use a momentary switch on your torch.Proud to support Reliable Sheet Metal Works, in Fullerton, CA.Full service sheet metal fabrication serving Orange County since 1926.http://www.reliablesheetmetal.com
Reply:Randy-That's quite a high-tech machine alright. I noticed that it's no longer listed in their catalog, and I asked someone at Lincoln why not, and he said basically that they couldn't keep the price low enough to be competitive. I do recall they were big $$$ new.I also saw that they offered a neat water-cooler with it which had a variable-speed pump, I was wondering if your machine came with it?David R-It's AC/DC, but just TIG, not MIG. I've never seen an AC/DC TIG and MIG in one machine, but I'm sure the Chinese will have one any day now. JohnA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps
Reply:Originally Posted by Silicon-basedIt's AC/DC, but just TIG, not MIG. I've never seen an AC/DC TIG and MIG in one machine, but I'm sure the Chinese will have one any day now. John
Reply:I have a V205T too, I would agree that it will just take lots of time playing with it to find out what works.   I have been using mostly default settings until I run into a weld that doesn't work well. that is when I start fiddling with the settings.  haven't got much time on it yet thoughTiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Just guessing, that welder was 5,000 to 8,000 new.  It was not out yet when I bought my V350.I walked into the LWS wanting a V205T and walked out with an Thermal Arc Arcmster 185. No problems in 5? years.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:To all,     Thanks for the help. The advice on keeping notes is very valuable and found out from the beginning, because of the available infinite settings that it is mansdatory to write it down. It has a memory for your settings so that helps a bunch. When I first got the machine I called Lincoln for some help on settings. They basically told me they didn't know and if I figured some good stuff out if I would mind sharing it with them. Of course in a general way they know what to do but it was a brand new product and little to no field time on them.   We did get the water cooler for it. Kind of mandatory when you have a lot of work to do in my opinion.Some days I'm under the hood for 8 or more hours. I think the package was about $8500 USD.  We also got the wheel kit.  I had been welding with a TIG 300/300 which weighed about 500 pounds.The invertech has a handle on top of it and I can effortlessly carry it , lift it up and set it into my trunk. Amazing what the technology has brought a welder to in the way of weight. We'll see how long the electronics hold up. The 300/300 went 33 years with only an on off switch and a water solenoid change. That's pretty respectable.   I have always liked Lincoln products. I went to their weld school in 1973. Got a buzz  box for Christmas when I was 14 years old. Last winter I bought a 180C Lincoln MIG and their 205 invertec, both for home use.  Both very nice units. Thanks for the replies.RandyLast edited by rcs9250; 12-17-2011 at 06:28 AM.
Reply:I have the V-200T, predecessor to the 205T but DC only. Bought new in '97 and still going strong.JohnA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps