Help with Welding Tubing Fitment

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Hello, newbie hereI'm trying to build a gokart frame out of some round tubing and I'm looking for some advice. How do you keep the tubing perfectly inline with each other? Are there any tools/clamps that can help hold tubing at angles other than 90?On a somewhat related note, if anyone has experience fabricating motor mounts for a 4cyl motorcycle engine, advice would be greatly appreciated.Thanks for reading and I apologize if this has been asked before, couldn't find anything when i used the search function.
Reply:Take a look here;http://www.trick-tools.com/Clamps_Ma...d_Fixtures_691You many not want to spend what some of these tools cost but you can get some good ideas and make your own.http://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:Originally Posted by cheekibreekiHello, newbie hereI'm trying to build a gokart frame out of some round tubing and I'm looking for some advice. How do you keep the tubing perfectly inline with each other? Are there any tools/clamps that can help hold tubing at angles other than 90?On a somewhat related note, if anyone has experience fabricating motor mounts for a 4cyl motorcycle engine, advice would be greatly appreciated.Thanks for reading and I apologize if this has been asked before, couldn't find anything when i used the search function.
Reply:Originally Posted by wade23454Perhaps it would help if you post a picture of the kind of gokart you are trying to build.  Coping tubing can be done with paper templates that you can download, or with a piece of angle iron and a drill press.  So many answers..... depending on your skills and tools.
Reply:I don't want to rain on your parade but, amateurish skills, a stretched frame and a larger engine could be a like a recipe for a disaster. Post lots of pics here, heed the advise. There are lots of great guys here willing to help (you just got advise from one of the best).If you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them.
Reply:Originally Posted by SWellsI don't want to rain on your parade but, amateurish skills, a stretched frame and a larger engine could be a like a recipe for a disaster. Post lots of pics here, heed the advise. There are lots of great guys here willing to help (you just got advise from one of the best).
Reply:Post your location in your profile in case there is a member close by that could help you in person.Depending on the guage of the tube you are using, you may be able to sleeve it inside with another smaller tube. That would be the easiest way to keep straight and add strength at the same time. For example, I'm building some mini bike forks out of 7/8" 16 gauge tube because i could not find any 14 gauge, so I am sleeving them with 16 gauge 3/4" tube to add strength. Most likely your cart is 7/8" 14 gauge tube, so 3/4" may be a tight fit. You may be able to grind some 3/4" 14 gauge tube or some 3/8" steel pipe enough to sleeve 8" on each side. Would not take too long to do that. Double tube would give you a better chance with your stick welder too. 3/8" steel pipe is .675" od and 7/8" 14 gauge tube is about .709" id so that might fit and you could simply buy 2 10" nipples and cut the threads off to make a good splint that will not be seen. Buy black pipe, not galvanized!Practice, practice, practice on some scrap before you attempt the weld on the actual cart!  I also suggest you leave about a 1/16-1/8" gap, make several tacks on both sides so you can check the alignment, etc. and then weld the tube.Post some pictures and you will get a lot of assistance with this project. You can do it, but you need to be sure you have engineered it correctly and your welding skills are up to the task.Last edited by wb4rt; 02-26-2014 at 09:03 AM.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Originally Posted by cheekibreekihttp://www.kartweb.com/2006/Showroom...-scChassis.jpgHeres a generic picture. I already have frame, just trying to stretch it a bit in order to fit a larger engine.Skills are pretty amateurish and Ive only got a lincoln 225 amp stickalso, thank you ztfab, got some ideas i could try from thoseany help is still greatly appreciated!
Reply:Originally Posted by wb4rtPost your location in your profile in case there is a member close by that could help you in person.Depending on the guage of the tube you are using, you may be able to sleeve it inside with another smaller tube. That would be the easiest way to keep straight and add strength at the same time. For example, I'm building some mini bike forks out of 7/8" 16 gauge tube because i could not find any 14 gauge, so I am sleeving them with 16 gauge 3/4" tube to add strength. Most likely your cart is 7/8" 14 gauge tube, so 3/4" may be a tight fit. You may be able to grind some 3/4" 14 gauge tube or some 3/8" steel pipe enough to sleeve 8" on each side. Would not take too long to do that. Double tube would give you a better chance with your stick welder too. 3/8" steel pipe is .675" od and 7/8" 14 gauge tube is about .709" id so that might fit and you could simply buy 2 10" nipples and cut the threads off to make a good splint that will not be seen. Buy black pipe, not galvanized!Practice, practice, practice on some scrap before you attempt the weld on the actual cart!  I also suggest you leave about a 1/16-1/8" gap, make several tacks on both sides so you can check the alignment, etc. and then weld the tube.Post some pictures and you will get a lot of assistance with this project. You can do it, but you need to be sure you have engineered it correctly and your welding skills are up to the task.
Reply:You will need to drop to 3/32" instead of 1/8" electrode for the metal thickness you are dealing with and drop your amps to around 70 or so.You should be practicing on some scrap pieces of similar tube BEFORE you start welding on the actual project.  The so called practicing will help you learn what is required to handle the real project as far as heat and speed you need to work with.7018 is a rather difficult rod to master, so that aspect is also going to be in the learning curve.A short length of steel angle clamped to the tubes is also a good way to hold them in alignment. But the suggestion to sleeve them or pin them on the inside is the best one.Last edited by walkerweld; 02-27-2014 at 01:37 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerweldYou will need to drop to 3/32" instead of 1/8" electrode for the metal thickness you are dealing with and drop your amps to around 70 or so.You should be practicing on some scrap pieces of similar tube BEFORE you start welding on the actual project.  The so called practicing will help you learn what is required to handle the real project as far as heat and speed you need to work with.7018 is a rather difficult rod to master, so that aspect is also going to be in the learning curve.A short length of steel angle clamped to the tubes is also a good way to hold them in alignment. But the suggestion to sleeve them or pin them on the inside is the best one.
Reply:you might do better with 3/32 6010  than with 3/32 7018. the 6010 will run at lower amps than the 7018 and blowthrough should go away.
Reply:Youmay even want to drop down to 1/16" rods in a 7014 or 6013. They are easier for a beginner and don't require as many amps.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.