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Trailer tongue length?

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发表于 2021-8-31 23:19:13 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Hey I am in the process of building my 5x10 trailer and at getting ready to cut my metal to make my trailer tongue.  Is there a standard size for the tongue?  I was looking at around 38" from the front of the bed to the middle of the coupler.  Does that sound about right?  Thanks for the help.Last edited by PoisonPancakes; 02-21-2008 at 10:27 PM.Reason: spellingOnly two defining forces have ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G. I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom.
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Reply:I am not real sure about a standard, but if it is too short it will jackknife quick. I would go measure some of mine, but it is pouring outside.Jody
Reply:The center of the coupler should be at or about 42" from the front edge of the trailer deck. On a 5'x10' trailer you should cut your tongue rails at 72" and it should meet the outer perimeter of the trailer side about 32" back from the front edge of the deck. That is assuming you will be using a 2" 50 deg. A-frame coupler. DaveI am what I am, Deal with it!If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!
Reply:dabar thanks for that spec of info.  I was looking at about 38-40" at first and was going to cut my rails at 66" but now I will make sure that I go to 42".  ThanksOnly two defining forces have ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G. I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom.
Reply:I have used the V type hitch a few times and like them.  The angle of the hitch will somewhat determine the size.Me!
Reply:http://www.championtrailers.com/UTIL...AILER_KITS.HTM
Reply:WhiskeyDeltaBravo, I have built a half dozen trailers to that design.  I don't think you can improve on it.
Reply:after building a few trailors I have found that if it's for your own use ,make the lenght from the axel to the ball the same length as your axel to axel distance of your tow vehicle this will make backing it up very easy also allow your self enought room to go 90* and not hit the trailor bed.Life is tuff,so be sharp  lincoln sp 100  cutmaster101  miller bobcat  miller 250 mig  $thousands in snapon
Reply:I hope I'm not breaking any unwritten rule by bumping this old thread.I did a number of searches on this topic.  The few results led me here.I would just like to toss out a few thoughts for discussion.Let me apologize for any newb comments I may have below.=================================================I bought a light duty 5' by 8' trailer to carry a sportsbike.  Sometimes 2 bikes.  As I started to configure the wheel chock, spare tire, tongue jack and tie down points it was obvious I'm going to be hugely tongue heavy.I had placed the wheel chock full forward on the deck.The logic I started with was from reading warnings about how one of the most common mistakes people make was not loading the tongue enough for stability.That's not my problem here.  In fact, based on the 60%-front-40%-rear conventionalin-the-box rubber-stamp time-tested concept many designs are based on, many other trailers must be massively heavy on the hitch.After my first weigh in, I shifted the chock back as far as I was able.  Still I was seriously front heavy.  About 16% was on the tongue.  I'm targeting 10%.The problem would be worse with 2 bikes loaded.  Possibly 18% on the tongue.After the weight shift to the back and the tongue lengthened from 37" to 61", the tongue weight is still at 12.5%.  The load is already as far back as it can be.  I wish I had bumped it to 70".  But it's not worth a do over at this time.The 2-bike balance may mean 14.5% on the hitch.  I really wanted 10% to 11%.If I had gone crazy and made the tongue 8'.  A cooky 96 inches.  I would still do okay with my sportbike loaded.  I have the option of moving the spare tire (with the carrier) and the tongue jack further forward to balance the numbers to 10% on the tongue.The numbers are more favorable for a longer trailer.  But you would have to bias the load __way__ back and leave most the front deck empty.  Paying for the space thatcan't really be used?What about trailers with tongue boxes?  Loading with 100 lbs or more?There's no way to balance that enough.=================================================So I started making notes for a future build based on my own design.The pivot point would be 55% front and 45% back instead of 60/40.I may even consider something closer 50/50.  But that's odd looking.Still it's the numbers that count.Maybe a tandam configuration would be easier to balance?Overkill.  I know.The tongue would be longish.  Try not to make it too freakish looking.Maybe make it capable of 2 or more lengths using swap out parts.Take a look at some of the beautifully designed "motorcycle" trailers on the market.  Don't they look out of balance?
Reply:Not necessary to drag up an ancient thread, just start your own.As for trailers, I think you may be overthinking this a wee bit.  Each percentage of weigh you are talking about is roughly what, 10 pounds?  Whoopee! You'll get way more weigh change than 30% due to dynamic loading when you back down the driveway. Every time you load it up it is going to be different just by the fuel in the tank, air in the tires, extra gear, less gear. Just get as close as you can, and don't worry about it too much. If you were loading 5 or 10 thousand pound vehicles, then I would worry aout it a lot more, but not a motorcycle. You will likely have more trouble keeping the trailer from bouncing.
Reply:You may want to consider rear jacks for a trailer like you are describing as well. If there is ever a load placed in the rear of the trailer while it is unhooked from the tow vehicle the tongue end may just lift up unexpectedly. Even with a bike on it something as simple as walking to the rear of the trailer can have an unexpected result.Ken
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerNot necessary to drag up an ancient thread, just start your own.As for trailers, I think you may be overthinking this a wee bit.  Each percentage of weigh you are talking about is roughly what, 10 pounds?  Whoopee! You'll get way more weigh change than 30% due to dynamic loading when you back down the driveway. Every time you load it up it is going to be different just by the fuel in the tank, air in the tires, extra gear, less gear. Just get as close as you can, and don't worry about it too much. If you were loading 5 or 10 thousand pound vehicles, then I would worry aout it a lot more, but not a motorcycle. You will likely have more trouble keeping the trailer from bouncing.
Reply:Your math and your thought process is good. The problem is your tow vehicle. 100 pounds tounge weight rating is just plain stupid. Why would anyone design something that way?
Reply:Originally Posted by KGIORYou may want to consider rear jacks for a trailer like you are describing as well. If there is ever a load placed in the rear of the trailer while it is unhooked from the tow vehicle the tongue end may just lift up unexpectedly. Even with a bike on it something as simple as walking to the rear of the trailer can have an unexpected result.Ken
Reply:The OP was planning to build his 5' by 10' trailer with a tongue of 38 inches.I'm sure he based this on "conventional" thinking.  Wouldn't it be more practical, if hehad the parking space for it, to build it with a 75" tongue?  He may even want to changethe 60/40 axle placement based on his expected loading patterns.
Reply:Originally Posted by GeorgeV6XGood point.  It would be $50 well spent.I can't disagree with you.  But there are quite a few "class I" situations out there.My observation begs the questions...Why are tongues so short on manufactured trailers?Why is the 60/40 choice the most common axle placement.If you take a look at the attached picture, you may see what I see.  The axle is way back... maybe more than 60%.  The V-nose makes the tongue look and act even shorter.If the front 20% ended up being loaded like the back 80%, the trailer could easily be overloading a class III hitch.Imagine the trailer configured for a load in the back.  Say 2 sportbikes.The front (including the V-nose area) had tools, supplies, etc.If the trailer needed to be towed without the sportbikes acting as counter balance behind the axle, the problem can be worse.My Carry-On trailer is close to a 61%/39% split.  It came with a 37" tongue.The front 20% can't really be used.  So I have 14 inches up front for air or foam.The other question I'd like to float out there would be...Why isn't the tongue on manufactured trailers of all kindsat least 45" long?  On some designs it seems to me (by doing the numbers) a tongue should be 60" or longer.Minimum code?  Just asking for trouble.
Reply:Originally Posted by cd19I have a trailer similar to the one in your photo, the axle may not be quite as far back but it still allows plenty of room to overload the tongue of the trailer.  A trailer with axles further back will normally ride nicer.
Reply:Originally Posted by GeorgeV6XYes.  A longer tongue also applies this concept.True.  I'm just suggesting the 60/40 axle placement may not be the best compromise to make the most versatile and useful trailer.A tongue of 60 inches for that trailer would not be outrageous either.  You need the elbow room between the tow vehicle and the point of the V-nose.  No?  Yes.  That would the other end of the spectrum.  The tilt design doesn't really have that much room to play with unless some kind of mechanical help is installed assist the tilt.
Reply:I've always gone a few inches more then half the width of the vehicle towing it, impossible to cause much damage if you jack knife it. Also a longer 'pole' is much easier to back up,of course much depends on your tonque weight..Brian
Reply:61 inch tongue on a 5' by 8' trailer.It would be better if I could move the axle forward about 7 inches. Attached Images
Reply:Measure from the hitch on your towing vehicle to  the outside of the vehicle and add a few inches. This way you will have clearance when making sharp turns as in backing.  Use this measurement for the hitch length. If the hitch is too short you will hit the trailer when turning short.Welder- Miller Thunderbolt AC 225-DC 150 Plasma cutter, Miller Spectrum 300O/P torch- Victor 100
Reply:http://www.oldengine.org/members/rot...ler/tongue.jpgI like this idea.http://www.oldengine.org/members/rot...r/trailer.html
Reply:Is this an enclosed triailer like in post 16 or an open trailer like in 21? The enclosed one looks like it will create LOTS of wind drag for that old Mustang to overcome. That little ponycar is not a good tow vehicle for much of anything. Small light trailers at best, and you have got to think about stopping power too. It might be worth thinking about a trailer brake set up as well.
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauIs this an enclosed triailer like in post 16 or an open trailer like in 21? The enclosed one looks like it will create LOTS of wind drag for that old Mustang to overcome. That little ponycar is not a good tow vehicle for much of anything. Small light trailers at best, and you have got to think about stopping power too. It might be worth thinking about a trailer brake set up as well.This is what I mean.  This design is much more useful.  The axles are placed about 54% from the front of the deck.  I'm measuring from the beginning of the main deck.  Not the V-nose part.Considering that this is a car carrier, and most cars have a front bias in the range of 57/43 or more, we may even be better off with a 52/48 split.  Any adjustments to add tongue load can easily be made by adding weight to the V-nose area.I still think the tongue is too short for turning and other considerations. Attached Images
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