TIG vertical up

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I had some of these to do, so I tried to go up instead of turn the piece.   1/8" plate 1 1/8" flame cut plate.  In places its a butt weld others its a fillet.  One I was not happy with so I laid the piece flat and made a second pass.  Some came out better than others.Lincoln V350 pro, #18f water cooled torch, 3/32 tungsten, 3/32 E70S-6 filler.   I also tried E70S-2 with a little better luck see next post.This one I  rejected and put a second pass on with the piece flat. Last edited by David R; 12-18-2011 at 05:56 PM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I did this one flat trying out the S-2.  I was surprised it did work better.   Last time I tried it the S-6 flowed better so I stayed with it.  FLAT Same weld FLAT, not vertical up.  I just thought it was pretty.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:2nd and 3rd pic look waaaay cold. Crank that baby up and do the same. TIG don't care what position your in.
Reply:second post looks very nice.  1 question;  what is the advantage og tig on something so thick as opposed to using mig or stick?
Reply:It looks a little cold pass with under cuts.wait until you see a puddle and go 90 degrees for the trigger.then slowly go up words when you see that puddle.Welding is the best trade ever.
Reply:Out of curiosity, why are you using tig for this application?IW Local 580 NY, NY
Reply:Originally Posted by HOBARTsecond post looks very nice.  1 question;  what is the advantage og tig on something so thick as opposed to using mig or stick?
Reply:just noticed the thick piece in the pics.  assumed everything was the same dimension.  good luck with the tig work.
Reply:This is the biggest reason  I could not do this with MIG or Stick.  Not too good TIG  either.Here are a couple more flat welds.   I have been doing this all week, finally getting the hang of it.   1 1/8" to 1 1/18"  2oo amps all of em,  3/32 E70S-2  ,  3/32 electrode,  Gas lenz #8 cup.  15 cfh.  Same weld, wire wheel after cool.DavidLast edited by David R; 12-19-2011 at 08:37 PM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:A few more today.   1/8" 304 stainless, vertical up,  1/16 308L filler  1/16 tungsten.Its going to be a Charcoal grill.  This is the support for the grate the fire will be on.  DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Welds look great David.  Still learning here.  Are 200 amps enough for .625" material to be joined well?TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:Originally Posted by Drf255Welds look great David.  Still learning here.  Are 200 amps enough for .625" material to be joined well?
Reply:David,On the last stainless welds it looks like you need to increase the amperage a little. Is the filler balling up on you and blobbing off, or are you just inconsistent about adding the filler?At the starts of your weld try adding filler twice to the puddle before progressing forward in your travel.ESAB Migmaster 250 Hobart Ironman 230Multimatic 215TWECO Fabricator 181i & 211iHH125EZ - nice little fluxcore only unitMaxstar 150 STH - very nice
Reply:I am inconstant.... and not too steady.   Those beads are about 1/8" wide.    On the first one I just started welding, on the last ones, I added filler, then moved down, more filler, then up to the top.  Using only enough heat to make a fluid puddle trying to keep the dark colors out.  I was standing almost over top looking down.  Not much support for hands.   Welds are what I got, no cleaning or wire brushing after.Stainless is a tough one, but I hope to master it some day.  When everything is right, it flows like butter.  Puddle is silver shiny.  I did a 3 basin sink on Friday.  One was leaking into the other.  I started at 40 amps touch start.   I was not moving too much and things got too hot.  I bumped it up to 60 then I could move right along and the HAZ was actually smaller.  Everything was going good until somebody opened the (&^%%#$@ door next to the sink.  I got discoloration on the other side but no sugaring.  No back purge used.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Do you know how to walk the cup?? , these welds would be allot easier if you didn't try to free hand them or (and I know you probably don't want to hear this) but a tig finger would help allot with keeping you a little more steady. Also, when welding SS or even MS a heat sink(aluminum/copper) helps control your heat tremendously. Oh and on SS you really need to get your puddle going and get moving asap.....Last edited by DemonSpeeder; 01-25-2012 at 10:26 PM.Lincoln pro mig 180Lincoln Square Wave Tig 300/wp 20/home built water cooler Victor, Purox, Harris, O/A welding/cutting setupsVintage Craftsman drill pressVintage Craftsman/Atlas 12"x 36'' lathe7''x 12'' w/c band saw Everlast 140 st
Reply:Originally Posted by David RI'm still learning too.   Yes 200 amps should be enough.  As long as you can get a good puddle going.  Do you have an air cooled torch?David
Reply:david that last weld in frame # 9 looks real nice. just keep at it. the more you do the better you will get. you need to have enough heat to get a nice fluid puddle started quickly .once it's started you then start adding wire , you want to move fast enough to not blacken the stainless steel ( blueish & gold color is fine & normal when welding stainless)  but not so fast as to get ahead of the puddle and not get good fusion  (a nice flat bead with ripples close together) always let the parts cool down before trying to wire brush or polish the beads. otherwise the coloration will stay on the parts.burned yellow gold look.
Reply:Hey David, as already stated, a block of aluminum will control your heat very effectively. With stainless, keep your torch angle minimal. You'll find everything goes to shi+ if you don't. Also on vertical keep your tungsten nice and close. I usually use a knuckle on a flange to guide me up.Good luck!Marc Leonard