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I just won my first Ebay item using a "Bid Sniper". A few weeks ago, I hadn't ever heard about sniping, but that would explain why I generally get outbid at the last second on Ebay.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Phoenix-Dry-...vip=true&rt=ncDon't know much about this model, but it looks quite a bit bigger than the 10lb model.I really wanted to do the refigerator with a lightbulb rod oven, but it would take up too much space in my workshop. I figure I can fire this thing up the day before my project starts and then keep it plugged in on station while welding.Previously, I was having trouble with 7018 not welding too well. I was using 1/8" and trying to run at 95 amps to join some 4.5mm plates. I am a novice welder and terrible fitter so I was having a bit of trouble with burn through on some of my weld joints.Maybe it was my imagination, but when I put a handful of rods in a toaster oven for an hour, I was able to run through all the rods without issue at the lower amperage.I'm using cheap rods(US Forge), so I'm sure that's the majority of the issue, but heating the rods seams to help me, so I'm sticking with it until I get some quality rods. Anyone else have better luck with preheating the rods?
Reply:I ordered some 3/32" and hoping that eases the pain a bit. I'm a glutton for punishment, so I ordered the "Hot Max" brand. There are NO reviews for them on the interweb, so not expecting much. I will eventually get my hands on some Lincoln Excaliburs when I feel I'm proficient enough to spend the extra money.Last edited by wade23454; 06-13-2013 at 08:26 AM.
Reply:I have found that 7018 does run better when hot from the oven. You will also be surprised at the amount of water in them. When you stock up the oven after an hour or so open the lid and you will likely see a lot of water condensed on the wall of the oven that came out of the rods.
Reply:I keep the portable oven around for really humid days, and for when there's welds that have to be right (and I'm using a fresh can for these welds). Otherwise I just use the 7018 out of a capped can kept in the house to help keep the humidity exposure low.I could say that I notice a difference, but I might be just kidding myself. It seems that the warmed rods light up easier. I get really frustrated at times with lighting a rod, and will scratch it to throw an arc to "warm" it up before actually hitting the joint (fillet joints sometimes light up hard due to the fact the tip doesn't hit flat steel but wants to wander into the groove). This would fail the weld on a code inspected job. But I can be real weird at times By the time I have the thing fitted, squared, and tacked, I'm ready to get it done, and want the welding out of the way as fast as possible. With me it's sometimes more about the building than the actual welding, I just need it done I was telling somebody the other day that I seldom seem to make anything for "fun", it's always a must-have-now dealRemember, this is just my rambling To be serious, and do it right, you should follow the manufacturers instructions for handling their consumables. If it's supposed to be stored dry..........store it dry, and use it dry."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Humidity is an issue over here. I have to change out the dessicants in our closets monthly or my entire outdated wardrobe will be covered in mold. I've thrown away a good amount of camping gear and luggage for that reason.The shipping containers for the cheap 7018 I purchase haven't been air tight to begin with. The latest was shipped in a plastic container with the bottom broken off and about 30% of the rods had the tip flux missing. Those should be fun to use.I bought a couple of 10# plastic containers with o-rings and thread on lids to store my rods.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammI keep the portable oven around for really humid days, and for when there's welds that have to be right (and I'm using a fresh can for these welds). Otherwise I just use the 7018 out of a capped can kept in the house to help keep the humidity exposure low.I could say that I notice a difference, but I might be just kidding myself. It seems that the warmed rods light up easier. I get really frustrated at times with lighting a rod, and will scratch it to throw an arc to "warm" it up before actually hitting the joint (fillet joints sometimes light up hard due to the fact the tip doesn't hit flat steel but wants to wander into the groove). This would fail the weld on a code inspected job. But I can be real weird at times By the time I have the thing fitted, squared, and tacked, I'm ready to get it done, and want the welding out of the way as fast as possible. With me it's sometimes more about the building than the actual welding, I just need it done I was telling somebody the other day that I seldom seem to make anything for "fun", it's always a must-have-now dealRemember, this is just my rambling To be serious, and do it right, you should follow the manufacturers instructions for handling their consumables. If it's supposed to be stored dry..........store it dry, and use it dry.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749To get a 1/8" 7018 electrode in a desirable amperage range on stuff that thin isn't going to yield very good results.Get some smaller rod & give it a shot.IMHO of course
Reply:Back a few years ago ( when I used EBAY) i learned to use a sniping program too and after that was very successful. You'll have more fun now.Good luck.Miller thunderbolt 250Decastar 135ERecovering tool-o-holic ESAB OAI have been interested or involved in Electrical, Fire Alarm, Auto, Marine, Welding, Electronics ETC to name a just a few. So YES you can own too many tools.
Reply:What does a sniping program do? What's the point when you just throw out your max bid and walk away.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleWhat does a sniping program do? What's the point when you just throw out your max bid and walk away.
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleWhat does a sniping program do? What's the point when you just throw out your max bid and walk away.
Reply:Hi, if you want it you pay for it.......being a tight arse means you will be outbid every time.I can outbid anybody on EBAY by simply deciding on the price I WON'T go beyond.If you're outbid on your top bid price, you win anyway......otherwise you will always pay over the top on something that is not worth it.When you're outbid on your top price the other guy really needs it and will pay whatever anyway, so don't get into a bun fight for nothing.Ian.
Reply:Originally Posted by puddytatHi, if you want it you pay for it.......being a tight arse means you will be outbid every time.I can outbid anybody on EBAY by simply deciding on the price I WON'T go beyond.If you're outbid on your top bid price, you win anyway......otherwise you will always pay over the top on something that is not worth it.When you're outbid on your top price the other guy really needs it and will pay whatever anyway, so don't get into a bun fight for nothing.Ian.
Reply:I don't think some of you are viewing the Auction Sniper in the correct perspective. Funny that this post went up, as my wife was trying to win on a Mallory Distributor for me today and I suggested Auction Sniper. She had never heard of it.PuddyTat, that is exactly what you do with the Auction Sniper, you put in your max bid. It won't go over that amount. So you always win. Just like you said. You never go over your top price.All it does is allow you to CHOOSE the moment that your bid goes in. There is a box and you pick how close to the end of the auction you want to shoot your bid in. The default is 5 seconds before the end of the auction. I don't see how that is sleazy. It isn't a secret, it is available to all users and it is free for the first 3 snipes. By the way, my wife won the auction and I got a 300-400 dollar brand new, still in the box, Mallory Distributor for 130 bucks. I have seen them online for over 500 bucks at expensive places. So I am happy as pie on fathers day to get a deal like that.Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:It's been a while, but I wanted to follow up about my rod oven. I pulled some 1/8" Lincoln 7018 rods to do some fab work, and they ran terrible. One rod would run fine, and the next rod would freeze to the work piece halfway through. I fired up my rod oven and put all my 7018 inside. It looked like a rain forrest when I opened the lid to check on it. Finally, after about 8 or 9 hours, moisture stopped developing on the lid of the oven. Rods run smooth and more consistent now so I can feel slightly less amateur when I'm welding, lol.This rod oven is pretty well sealed, so I'll just store all my 7018 in there from now on, and maybe fire it up if it sets for a few months.
Reply:You realize you can heat them one at a time on the fly? Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:LOL, I think I was inadvertently doing that when my rod would stick before. Like I said, I'm a "new" welder with no formal training, so I need every advantage I can get.
Reply:Originally Posted by wade23454I'm a "new" welder with no formal training.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPMe too!
Reply:Originally Posted by wade23454If you're new, then I've got further to go than originally expected, lol. |
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