Stick welders electrode survey

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If you could only have ONE type of SMAW electrode and that one only, what would you choose?   Since I'm only allowed 5 survey questions, I'm leaving out the stainless steel rods and other exotics.  I'm just talking about rods used for soft steel.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:I will bet 7018 wins by a large margin."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:6010 For me becauseFills better when joints are open root or poorly fitted.Gets into joints where arc length is going to be a little long no matter what I doSeems better on dirty farm equipment where cleaning is not being doneMy welds rarely get machinedI'm not doing code workProvides enough strengthMost welds are on low carbon steelThat said, when StickMan comes down this way I'm putting all the 7018 in the locker. Locking him in the shop with a box of 5P and firing up the 300D. After some diesel fumes and flux gases he'll vote my way.AlA man is judged by what's between his legs...always ride a good horseMiller DialArc HFLincoln Classic 300DThermal Arc 181iPowermax 45Scotchman Ironworker(2) BridgeportsOkomota Surface GrinderAutoCAD 2010
Reply:I would choose whatever rod Sticky had just bought, just like I do now!
Reply:This survey makes no sense at all. It it not the operators choice of what filler is used. It needs to be determined more by the base materials, joint type, and service use. These items are much more important than what ane weldor wants to use. The general idea of this survey shows a lacking of understanding of welding.
Reply:oops!"Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:Originally Posted by SmokinPRanchThat said, when StickMan comes down this way I'm putting all the 7018 in the locker. Locking him in the shop with a box of 5P and firing up the 300D. After some diesel fumes and flux gases he'll vote my way.Al
Reply:Originally Posted by Stick-manOh you're lucky! I just ran down in the basement to make sure you didn't get to my 260lbs of 7018!!! Otherwise it would have been  time!!!
Reply:Originally Posted by Fat BastardThis survey makes no sense at all. It it not the operators choice of what filler is used. It needs to be determined more by the base materials, joint type, and service use. These items are much more important than what ane weldor wants to use. The general idea of this survey shows a lacking of understanding of welding.
Reply:Originally Posted by Fat BastardThis survey makes no sense at all...The general idea of this survey shows a lacking of understanding of welding.
Reply:Originally Posted by Stick-manI will bet 7018 wins by a large margin.
Reply:Since this poll is only for those who don't have a general understanding about welding, I feel qualified to weigh in and choose 6013.   Because:When we reach The End of the World As We Know It, I won't need a rod dryer.   I won't have a grinder to remove millscale, slag and rust.  It will work on both AC or DC.  There won't be any weld inspectors, and hydrogen will be the least of my problems. AND if I need to weld up an alien space craft, the residual magnetism won't be a problem.  Everyone knows space alien craft pass through a lot of electromagnetic fields on their way through the solar system.  No way you're going to get one tacked back together and off the ground with DC.  Critical welds, schmitical welds.  No one can argue that overcoming arc blow is the first order of business.   EDIT - actually the more I think about it, I might have a point.
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcYeah whatever professor.  It never fails, there's always one.
Reply:Originally Posted by Fat BastardThis survey makes no sense at all. It it not the operators choice of what filler is used. It needs to be determined more by the base materials, joint type, and service use. These items are much more important than what ane weldor wants to use. The general idea of this survey shows a lacking of understanding of welding.
Reply:Originally Posted by slim83Come on FB lighten up. I weld pipe all day and depending on the wps it could be 6010 with 7018 or 6010 with 8010 the rest of way out. If I had a choice to the weld procedure I'd use on 99% of pipe it'd be a tig bead and hotpass with 7018 for the cap. When I'm on a downhill job I'm definitely missing 7018. It just makes for a nice weld
Reply:Originally Posted by Fat BastardI guess for the guy welding bed frames this kind of topic is useful.
Reply:Originally Posted by Fat BastardI guess for the guy welding bed frames this kind of topic is useful. Lets them know they are not alone.
Reply:You  missed one rod 7014________________________________Everlast PA140STEverlast PowerPlasma 50And no you can't Borrow them
Reply:Arent they all used for different applications?? 6011 for the rust junk that just needs to be stuck together, 6013 for the really thin materials, and 7018 when I dont want it to have some strength!!
Reply:Most of the alian space craft I have welded on were made out of transparent aluminum  the cracks show up very well in black light and had to be lazer welded with 45871TA rod www.georgesplasmacuttershop.comPlasma Cutter and Welder Sales and Repairs--Ebay storeTec.Mo. Dealer Consumables for the PT and IPT torch's
Reply:Hey Tbone did you see any 7014 at Stickys I need some www.georgesplasmacuttershop.comPlasma Cutter and Welder Sales and Repairs--Ebay storeTec.Mo. Dealer Consumables for the PT and IPT torch's
Reply:Originally Posted by Fat BastardThis survey makes no sense at all. It it not the operators choice of what filler is used. It needs to be determined more by the base materials, joint type, and service use. These items are much more important than what ane weldor wants to use. The general idea of this survey shows a lacking of understanding of welding.
Reply:Originally Posted by Fat BastardThis survey makes no sense at all. It it not the operators choice of what filler is used. It needs to be determined more by the base materials, joint type, and service use. These items are much more important than what ane weldor wants to use. The general idea of this survey shows a lacking of understanding of welding.
Reply:I think it was Tozzi that said "7018 out of the drier is like a biscuit out of the oven'Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by Fat BastardThis survey makes no sense at all. It it not the operators choice of what filler is used. It needs to be determined more by the base materials, joint type, and service use. These items are much more important than what ane weldor wants to use. The general idea of this survey shows a lacking of understanding of welding.Originally Posted by mechanic416Hey Tbone did you see any 7014 at Stickys I need some
Reply:Originally Posted by RodJSince this poll is only for those who don't have a general understanding about welding, I feel qualified to weigh in and choose 6013.   Because:When we reach The End of the World As We Know It, I won't need a rod dryer.   I won't have a grinder to remove millscale, slag and rust.  It will work on both AC or DC.  There won't be any weld inspectors, and hydrogen will be the least of my problems. AND if I need to weld up an alien space craft, the residual magnetism won't be a problem.  Everyone knows space alien craft pass through a lot of electromagnetic fields on their way through the solar system.  No way you're going to get one tacked back together and off the ground with DC.  Critical welds, schmitical welds.  No one can argue that overcoming arc blow is the first order of business.   EDIT - actually the more I think about it, I might have a point.
Reply:I picked 7018. I use it a lot more than anything else. Getting more experience with 6010 is on my long list of welding "to-do's".As for the **** slinging:IW Local 580 NY, NY
Reply:Originally Posted by Fat BastardI guess for the guy welding bed frames this kind of topic is useful. Lets them know they are not alone.
Reply:jeeze some of you guys need to relax a bit. Are you seriously telling me that if you owned a farm you would keep every kind of rod, you may possibly need on hand. If you were the at home hobby welder and wanted to build a work bench you're going to research which rod will be the best bet for the project and not use the pile of 6013 you have in your tool box?I've been welding for years, have certifications, and even i only keep a couple rods on hand at my home shop. I mean realistically, what is the average guy going to run into on a farm/home shop that can't be fixed with 6010 or 7018? Some of you guys think everyone on this forum is a professional/career welder. Some people are here just to gain some knowledge and don't need to be told they don't understand welding for asking a question.Last edited by claymans13; 02-23-2012 at 08:24 AM.ESAB MigMaster 275Miller Econotwin HFMiller Syncrowave 250
Reply:When not on the job I am lucky to have some rusty 1/4" or thinner steel fragments from the dump (no kidding) to make something with.  No code for home / hobby so my go-to rod is 6011.  Works well enough for me on AC or DC.  I have a few pounds of the other rods but you will find me cleaning up 6011 butts out of my driveway 9 times out of 10.Like it or not, that is the reality of the situation.Great topic.  Can't wait to see some other positive posts. Gordie -- "I believe you understand what you think I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant."
Reply:Originally Posted by slim83Lol. I don't weld bed frames. And a group of welders on a jobsite does discuss their favorite rod from time to time. Its just like a beer. Everyone has their favorites.
Reply:+1 6011 most used brand here is the Lincoln Supra; works great downhill and doesn't mind dirty steel...www.petermoll.nl
Reply:Just a home/acreage welding hack (and not even a good one at that), but i like 6011 lincoln rods from Walmart to do my always outdoor dirty work. I did get a few 1/16 6013's I'm anxious to try out on the thin stuff from my local welding shop and 6013's do go down nicely but if I had to use just 1 I'd do the 6011 cause they seem to be solid for everything. I haven't run any 7018's and I know they are rock solid rods, but usually 6010/6011 are used for the root passes and I know I rarely get the opportunity to run virgin metal so 6011's work for me.Montgomery Ward Powr Kraft AC-DC 230/140
Reply:Originally Posted by Fat BastardSure if you are talking about brand, like Bud and Coors suck but Becks rocks. But this survey is more like beer vs. water.
Reply:Well I must say this is a very interesting survey.  I discovered that this survey pulled in one particular individual that apparently thinks he knows everything about welding and he isn't shy to let the rest of us know that.  So I see that 7018 is the winner for this particular survey.  Here's just some of my own worthless thoughts about certain stick electrodes for personal hobby use:6011:I personally can't stand 6011 rod for welding.  I do like 6011 for one thing and one thing only.  I love 6011 to quickly cut through steel like butter!  When I'm too lazy to pull out the chop saw, band saw or plasma cutter, I can quickly cut steel with the SMAW set on about 200 Amps and cut away.  Then I just hit the cut piece with a flap disc and I'm back in welding business faster that a speeding bullet (using a Mig welder or maybe 7018 rod).  6013:I do like 6013 1/8' rod run on AC for some general purpose welding, like lawn art and fixing some outdoor patio furniture for my father in-law's restraunt.   Today, I finally got to welding up a new welding cart I made this afternoon to hold my Lincoln AC/DC-225.  I spent all day yesterday cutting and preping the metal to be welded today with 6013 1/8' rod.     7014I found the last 10lb box on the shelf  of this stuff at my local metal shop today.  It came in a nice black sealed reusable plastic box.  I can't wait to try that stuff out tomorrow on some scrap steel I have.   I also plan on making some steel rifle targets and I'll probably use this stuff to fabricate it up. 7018I do like 7018.  A buddy (retired professional welder) of mine helped me weld up a go-kart for my son a while back with that 1/8' electrode.   Boy did I (he  ) make some beautiful welds on the frame of that go-kart!  7018 was really purdy (for stick welding).   I plan on welding some gate footings for my house within the next few weeks using 7018. 7024My buddy swears by this stuff.   He said this and 7014 were once popular before Mig welding took over on production line stuff.  He has several 50 lb canisters of this stuff in his garage.  He offered a can of it to me, but I haven't taken him up on it. I have enough of 6013 and 7018 to last a while.  One final thought about Stick welding that  I discovered...........  MIG welding is much nicer and cleaner!  My own shop floor is much cleaner when I'm NOT using a stick welder.  That being said however,  I LOVE stick welding.  It's so cool!Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:well my favorite rod to run is a 7024.  I just love that rod.  it wouldn't be the only rod in my bucket though.  I love a 6011.  I don't weld dirty steel.  I think this is as idiotic of a statement as can be made.  A man with a grinder who doesn't prep his joint is just lazy.  I have 6010 laying around as left overs from my work.  They are same class as the 6011s for me, if I had to choose one over the other it would be the 11s.  7018 is king enough said, I always have them.  I have 6013 and 7014, but they don't do anything for me really that 7018 won't do in spades.  I also keep 309 around and also 308.  Another rod I keep around is ni55 and ni99.I understand the reason for the poll, but this is like asking a mechanic which socket is his favorite.  I can't imagine him saying UMM....I think I like a 22 mm best.Now just for grinners, I will say 7018 is the must have for me.  I can make do with it on mild steel if I was only limited to one rod.  the reason isn't due to it's strength or "codeness".  It has the most iron powder you can have and run out of position, it has the best aesthetics, and it has WOW factor so when you are bragging to your buddies you can say, "yeah, it will hold the titanic up...I welded it with a 7018!!!"  At which time they all nod their head approvingly.True story:I was visiting a fellow looking at a tractor and some implements.  He was showing me a repair on one of the implements and said, "yeah, it may be ugly but it will hold the titanic up...I welded it with a 7018!!!"  At which time I asked him if he had use the harrow since its repair.  he said no he had repaired it in order to sell it.  it was a good thing because I chipped the slag off the weld with my pocket knife while looking it over and noticed the weld had missed the joint all together.  only the slag had filled the joint.yall have a good day.
Reply:Originally Posted by Scott YoungI don't weld dirty steel.  I think this is as idiotic of a statement as can be made.
Reply:I don't weld dirty steel. I think this is as idiotic of a statement as can be made. A man with a grinder who doesn't prep his joint is just lazy.
Reply:Originally Posted by tinyThat's a bit harsh. Dirty work, doesn't necessarily equate to dirty steel. Anyone who works outside of a shop with aged steel knows that a grinder can't reach everything. I do agree every possible attempt to shine up the metal should be made, there are however difficult to reach repairs on already aged & assembled equipment that may not shine before they are welded.
Reply:Originally Posted by claymans13there's places in the world where grinders don't fit, and when you're hanging a few hundred feet in a climber and you have to weld the inside corner joint of a box barley big enough to get the stinger in, a rod that will weld over rust, dirty, fly ash, coal ash is priceless.
Reply:Originally Posted by Scott YoungI don't remember saying aged steel.  It was dirty steel (yes, I do have a problem with manufacturers that list electrodes as paint/rust/dirty capable too).  A grinder may not be able to get into every spot, that is where burr motors come in handy.  if you can stick an electrode in the joint then you can get a burr bit into it.  I also believe a person needs to concider a greater disassembly so the joint can be better accessed.  I will grant you the metal doesn't need to be tig ready but I have been on too many jobsites where some slag hand was willing to weld over paint, rust and greasy dirt.  If I weld it, I want to sleep easy at night knowing I took the extra time to get to good metal.The two hardest jobsites I have had to work at getting clean metal is the logging woods.  everything covered in pine pitch, mud, and hydraulic fluid.  Not to mention rust and paint.  the second is road crews that put oil/pea grave tops down.  There is nothing harder to get off than caked taroil and dirt with a mix of gravel.I am not trying to come off harsh people taking shortcuts is a pet peave of mine.  sorry if I offended you.
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcTalking about job sites is one thing..... You're a professional welder that's getting PAID to do the job right.  You're expected to use your time to do the metal prep before welding and all that time, you're being compensated for that job.For the home hobbiest or farmer/rancher that has no means or reason to pay a welder for his time,  is a whole other ball game. The Hobbiest may not need nor can be afford to buy a de-burring  machine to fix a rusty, dirty, oily piece of steel that is hard to reach with a disc grinder.  In that case, a 6011 rod is the perfect remedy that's probably called for.Another example is my friend's fence line that had some rusted posts that needed some galvanized steel supports at the footings. He had about 20 he needed to reinforce for his horse corral.  Do you think he wasted time grinding down weld joints for those 20 or so fence posts???? No, he didn't.  He drove his engine driven Hobart welder out of his pick up truck and welded with 6011.  He's a one man operation that needs to get things done in a hurry.  Grinding would have taken him that much longer and he didn't have the time nor the finances to higher a welder.  He also wasn't doing repairs on a roller coaster, car frame, trailer hitch or Boeing 747.  It's a simple very old fence line way out on his property that also has no aesthetic (eye candy) value.  In other words, the welds don't need to look pretty and the horses aren't going to bust down that fence either.My point is, just because someone doesn't "grind" a joint 100% of the time before welding, by no means is that an indication of being lazy.  There is a reason why books, schools and welders continue to refer people to 6010/6011 rod for welding "DIRTY / RUSTED / PAINTED or OILY" surfaces.
Reply:Originally Posted by Scott YoungI can't tell you how many miles of fence, corners, cattle guards, and corrals I have welded out of drill stem.  It takes less 30 seconds to prep a pipe joint.  I know I am being argumentative here, but I am trying to drive home a point that except in rare cases like clayman's example, prepping should be just as important as the weld itself.I have welded through nasty stuff, but as I have gotten older, I find I am more particular about my work.  I have done get by jobs and "that'll do" work, but in the long run quality last longer.  In the case of your friend, I have been there.  It is too easy to plug a grinder into that hobart and wire brush the joint or shine the joint with a rock.  Again I am not talking tig ready metal.Lastly, if you think being a professional means you have time to lolligag around prepping a joint then you are sadly mistaken.  If anything it has simply allowed me the opportunity to see how to do it right.As for the burr motor, you can buy one for 14.99 from northern tools.http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2953_200322953I guess we will simply have to agree to disagree.
Reply:Thanks for the link on the die grinder, I wasn't sure what you meant by burr motor. Any idea where to find a long reach burr attachment for the grinder? While I agree that not every spot can be cleaned to a shine, I still believe every reasonable attempt should be made and if there's a long reach burr tool that will get in most any place a rod will, then I'm interested. It sounds like something that could be hooked to the end of a portable drill too so one wouldn't necessarily have to drag an air compressor out.Montgomery Ward Powr Kraft AC-DC 230/140
Reply:Originally Posted by tinyThanks for the link on the die grinder, I wasn't sure what you meant by burr motor. Any idea where to find a long reach burr attachment for the grinder? While I agree that not every spot can be cleaned to a shine, I still believe every reasonable attempt should be made and if there's a long reach burr tool that will get in most any place a rod will, then I'm interested. It sounds like something that could be hooked to the end of a portable drill too so one wouldn't necessarily have to drag an air compressor out.
Reply:i learned bas ackwards from tig to mig to stick because of the thin stuff i work with. But just playing with stick 6013 blew me away        thermal arc 252i  -  millermatic 350P -   miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs  -   Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:I picked 7024 because I thought It needed  a bit more votes.   The question is a tough one as it doesn't determine what other processes besides sticks are available, if you can have lots of different diameter rods or just one,  whether the work piece can be positioned as needed or is fixed, whether you have sealed containers or stuff kept for years, and other issues which would factor in.  I have a problem with the flux/slag creeping around the arc and in front of the direction of travel with 7018 if I can't put the piece on a bit of a slope.  Some brands are worse than others.  6010 seems to make a lot of spatter and be a pain to claean but it is a long time since I had some real fresh stuff.  It also gets ruined when put on a wood stove which didn't hurt or somewhat improved the 7018.  I think the 6010 ought to be scoring a bit higher as it gets in corners well.  I don't trust 6013 and havn't used 6011.