Welding 1/2" with a 135 amp...opinions wanted

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OK guys, I'm not posting up saying that my 135 welds 1/2" all day long so take it easy....My everyday welding consists of 11 gauge and lighter, so all I have is a Hobart Handler 135. However, I had a bumper that needed new brackets so I gave it a shot and want some input on if it looks okay. This is a rear bumper, but I pull goose necks exclusively so there won't be much strain on it. Regardless, I need to know if it will hold up for peace of mind or if I ought to lop em off and do it with a stronger machine. Yea I know "if you gotta ask then its not safe"....I gotta ask because all I typically weld is light stuff and I wanted to give it a shot.All of the edges were beveled down to having less than 1/4" left in the middle:
Reply:3 passes on each side set at 4/60 on the MIG
Reply:My MM140 struggled bad on 1/4" and didn't get full penetration but that was on a makeshift tool for suspension work so if it failed no biggie. That looks real cold. Beads are high and there's incomplete fusion at the toes. I would not expect it to hold if you got rear-ended.Disclaimer:Not a pro
Reply:I welded some 1/2 inch, and it was not easy. I had my fabricator 252i cranked up to 24.5v and 500ipm wire speed, and it was running at 205-215A I get good fusion and penetration but it took a few practice pieces to get it right. I don't know that yours will hold. Like said your welds look cold. I would grab some smaller pieces and run some practice pieces. Try a wider bevel, and run more passes like 6 per side. Get the center of your bevel down to a knife edge. Then preheat the crap out of it. And then bend your test weld. Once you figure out how to get a weld that dies not crack, you should be fine if you follow that process. Welding 1/2 inch should be possible if you make enough passes, and keep the heat up, and weld a little at a time. (small beads with lots of heat in the weld puddle) by running smaller welds really hot you will in effect be welding thinner metals, and the fusion should be ok.I'm not trying to bash you, just trying to help. That small of a welder will require a bunch of extra work on that heave of steel.Offering CNC Plasma cutting and welding projects.Follow me on facebook https://www.facebook.com/nobigdeal.fabSupport those that support WW.
Reply:Yeah, you can also attempt to climb Mount Everest wearing only shorts, tee shirt and tennis shoes, if your that stupid, and there'll be lots of people out there that will give you advice on how to.....LOL......1/2 inch with a Mig, pull the other one!Ian.Last edited by puddytat; 10-08-2012 at 12:26 PM.
Reply:not sure of the configuration of the bumber, but why not use more braces that are 1/4"?
Reply:I have to agree, doesn't seem like a very good idea. If you must, at least knife edge it or get it down to 1/16". I don't imagine you have any penetration into the area you didn't bevel. It should still hold for normal use, but I hate the thought that it might fail.Lincoln 175HD
Reply:epoxy is kinda cheap.  Probably bettererBuy American, or don't whine when you end up on the bread line.
Reply:It doesn't matter how much you vee it out, you just have to put more metal back to block up the Veeing out you did.The important bit is the penetration into the sides of the Vees, 'cos that's where the metal is fixed to.......without any decent penetration into the sides of the vees and the bottom, all you have is a slug of metal attached to the sides of the vees by a thin weld, and that's where the weld will fail at the Vee interface.As you're so hell bent on Migging the joint, this is a problem you will encounter.This is also the reason people who weld have more than one welding machine doing more than one weld process.......ever hear of a stick welder, or a Tig welder?.......they all do different types of weld and are tools you should get to know.You could buy a cheap stick welder at an auction and get better results.I wouldn't trust the Mig you have on anything more than 1/8" thick material, but you will learn as you get to know the thing.I realise from post #1 that you normally do 11 gauge, but attempting to do 1/2".....words fail me.Hey,  taking it to the ridiculous....you could take a piece of 1" thick plate and vee it out right to the bottom, ( that will be fun), then start with a neat root weld just to go by the book, but by the time you got to the top, and bearing in mind that the top of the vee is almost an inch wide, you will just be replacing the metal you veed out.....I doubt you would get enough heat into the joint to get the wire to stick to the sides....LOL.....the guys at your LWS would love to sell you more wire though, and lots of gas too, as well as a few tips and a couple of drive rollers....oh yeah, and LOTS AND LOTS of anti spatter gel, gonna need lots of that sh!t.Ian.Last edited by puddytat; 10-08-2012 at 06:08 PM.
Reply:What's a stick welder? Like it only welds sticks together?
Reply:Its not how much you bevel it out.  The issue is not having enough amps to heat the base metal during the weld to gain proper fusion...Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Heat that sucker with a torch, the more outside heat you have the less the machine has to do.Definitely outside of the machines capability though.Tim Beeker.
Reply:Forget it! The reason guys like you get abrasive answers and think we are a bunch of bung holes is because we have thousands of dollars invested in the trade, and years and years of experience making sure we produce a quality safe product. These are the fails that make insurance and other BS projects harder for us to aknowledge. I'm being honest and hope you don't take it personal, but for fks sake know you limitations. Do some destructive testing, and you will see how assholish you were for even askin!  Take it how you want, but cheers ayway I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:This is a case of you can't use amps you didn't buy.
Reply:Originally Posted by Slumpbuster36What's a stick welder? Like it only welds sticks together?
Reply:Wow, a lot of arrogance to wade through to find some of the constructive criticism in here. First, anyone that gets on the “MIG isn’t strong enough has to be stick” comments; just dismiss. Anyone that tells you you’re an a-hole for having the audacity to ask a question; just dismiss. The “strength of a repair” doesn’t come from the process (MIG, stick, TIG, resistance, friction, explosion, etc) but from the design of the repair for the given forces that are applied on the repaired section. The proper process, filler, etc is chosen for the materials being bonded; in your case mild steel so MIG is a suitable choice.The machine you’re using is way underpowered for the material thickness you’re welding so let’s put that aside. I would say the “butt welds” you’ve done have the job half way completed and to finish you should “fish plate” one side of the repair, allowing the plate to have the mounting bolts go through it. If possible, fish plate the other side with as much overlap of the butt weld, but you’re restricted by where the bracket slides into the mount.Of course the easiest solution is to visit your local salvage yard and find a replacement bumper and save yourself time and aggravation.
Reply:Hey sure go ahead and do what ever you want.  Over on another thread everyone is holding hands and singing cumbaya with a guy that doesn't know the difference between the two most popular electrodes and wants to build a trailer.  So hey build what you want and stick it together with bubble gum. Most people are going to do what they want anyhow.  The only reason most post here is to have people pat them on the back and tickle their butt and tell them they are good welder!!
Reply:Originally Posted by markfugaWow, a lot of arrogance to wade through to find some of the constructive criticism in here. First, anyone that gets on the “MIG isn’t strong enough has to be stick” comments; just dismiss. Anyone that tells you you’re an a-hole for having the audacity to ask a question; just dismiss. The “strength of a repair” doesn’t come from the process (MIG, stick, TIG, resistance, friction, explosion, etc) but from the design of the repair for the given forces that are applied on the repaired section. The proper process, filler, etc is chosen for the materials being bonded; in your case mild steel so MIG is a suitable choice.The machine you’re using is way underpowered for the material thickness you’re welding so let’s put that aside. I would say the “butt welds” you’ve done have the job half way completed and to finish you should “fish plate” one side of the repair, allowing the plate to have the mounting bolts go through it. If possible, fish plate the other side with as much overlap of the butt weld, but you’re restricted by where the bracket slides into the mount.Of course the easiest solution is to visit your local salvage yard and find a replacement bumper and save yourself time and aggravation.
Reply:Thanks for the info from you non-douches, I appreciate it. The bumper was dropped off at a guys shop who plans on grinding out the welds and redoing them. I do like the fish plate idea, I think I will do that when I get it back with some 3/16" plate I have. If I crank it up and go slow I ought to be able to get that welded on safely, correct?And the stick welder question was a joke, I just figured I ought to act like as big of a dumbass as y'all were thinking I am. I hope one day to be knowledgable enough to get online and say things to people I wouldn't if we were face to face.
Reply:Ahhhh, don't be a sissy Slumpy....ya' got anthing to say get it out, the guys here will put you straight in their own way......you just gotta take the talk as it comes out.......no insults were intended, but some of the guys have been down this path so often it makes you want to cringe when some of the "methods" are proposed by noobs.Have a good day, and if you see an old stick welder in a dumpmaster pull it out, you might just be able to revive it with some TLC.......some of the oldies are bullet proof and only get turfed out when a gleaming new import lightweight is on the boards.Then when you can afford a gleaming new lightweight import, give the oldie to someone coming up through the ranks and teach him how to use it........you'll learn more by teaching someone than being taught by someone....old proverb, "teaching you teaches me".Ian.