Buying a used cold saw - Manual or Semi-auto?

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I will be using a bandsaw for a majority of my cutting applications since most of it is bundle cutting. I often need to miter the edges and my bigger bandsaw can't miter so I have to do a secondary miter on my smaller saw. I cut a lot of thin wall tubing, anywhere from 1" to 3". The smaller bandsaw cuts so slow for the miters and the blade breaks way too often. So I'm told a cold saw will be best for my application. mostly doing miters or quicky one off cuts. I'll be buying used off Craigslist most likely. What should I be looking for in terms of amps, blade diameter, or especially should I look for a semi-auto or is manual fine?John 3:16(2) Miller Pheonix 456(2) Millermertic 252Dynasty 210DXHobart 210MVPDoringer D350 SA Cold SawScotchman 350LT Cold SawWebb 10x50 MillWebb 15x40 LatheGeka Bendicrop Ironworker
Reply:Why a cold saw ? Mitering thinwall tube. Just grab a new Makita LC 1230. Amazoo has them for $400 right now.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:You are talking manual or semi auto. I would guess you are referring to a cold wet saw with very low RPMs and high torque. A dry cut cold saw will work very nicely on thin wall but I do not know of any that miter by turning the head, they usually turn the vise. A cold wet saw will miter at least one way, and some both ways. A semi auto usually also has a air vise that needs to be regulated to prevent tube crushing, or make form jaws for the vise. Manual for occasional use would be better. Just because a cold wet saw is referred to as wet, they work very well with mist. 99% of the mist is consumed at the cut and a good system can run on a gallon for months and months for your application.
Reply:Like something like this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Startrite-CN...item19c5f2358fBut probably cheaper.John 3:16(2) Miller Pheonix 456(2) Millermertic 252Dynasty 210DXHobart 210MVPDoringer D350 SA Cold SawScotchman 350LT Cold SawWebb 10x50 MillWebb 15x40 LatheGeka Bendicrop Ironworker
Reply:What kind of bandsaw do you have? My Doall 916a did not come from the factory with the ability to miter but I quickly built different back stop that bolt right on the table for mitering material.
Reply:Ramco RS100P. The vise sucks. Kept slipping so I welded it square. Just tack welds, so I could grind down if needed. But I do a little of funky mitering to make odd shapes. Not just 45 or 22.5 degrees, etc. What's the difference between those carbide tipped chop saws vs cold saws?John 3:16(2) Miller Pheonix 456(2) Millermertic 252Dynasty 210DXHobart 210MVPDoringer D350 SA Cold SawScotchman 350LT Cold SawWebb 10x50 MillWebb 15x40 LatheGeka Bendicrop Ironworker
Reply:Originally Posted by EcondronRamco RS100P. The vise sucks. Kept slipping so I welded it square. Just tack welds, so I could grind down if needed. But I do a little of funky mitering to make odd shapes. Not just 45 or 22.5 degrees, etc. What's the difference between those carbide tipped chop saws vs cold saws?
Reply:Dry cut saw: cost around $400, sounds like death, though little chips everywhere, do a great job cutting 90 degrees or miters, portable...Cold cut saw: cost $2000 and up, very quite
Reply:I would recommend the manual saw.Haberle, Doringer, or Brobo are the best cold saws that I know. And the bed type are best for accrurate cuts and stability. I would recommend for 3 inch part, I would look for a saw that takes a miminum 12 inch blade. A fine tooth blade works well for thin wall.This is my old Haberle 18" blade saw. I can put a vise on each side if I wish or even toe clamps in the tee slots. Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:I would guess you are referring to a cold wet saw with very low RPMs and high torque.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonI would recommend the manual saw.Haberle, Doringer, or Brobo are the best cold saws that I know. And the bed type are best for accrurate cuts and stability. I would recommend for 3 inch part, I would look for a saw that takes a miminum 12 inch blade. A fine tooth blade works well for thin wall.This is my old Haberle 18" blade saw. I can put a vise on each side if I wish or even toe clamps in the tee slots.