Another "Frozen" Fastener Extraction

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Well, actually a set screw but you get the idea.In the process of disassembling the F-M magneto from my SA200 project for major maintenance, one of the 5/16-24 set screws that hold the coil in wouldn't budge even with some heat, several soakings of PB Blaster and a few attempts with an impact driver.  Being hardened, the standard drill bits I have were less than useless for drilling it out.So - break out the MM200 and some nuts.Mr. Stubborn - left center.  The one that broke loose with the impact driver can be seen sticking out on the other side of the mag housing.Built up, nut welded on and finally on its way out.End result of extraction method.Don't give up if the first attempt doesn't work.  Took five tries to get this one started and all the way out.Thanks for looking.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:which welder was used?
Reply:MM200 = Millermatic 200.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Looks familiar Duane, nice work there. Best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:Fantastic job.This has become my preferred method for dealing with broken bolts and studs. For years I used my mig "because it was fast" but about a year ago I needed to remove some valve cover studs. I didn't want to risk all the spatter in the engine so I pulled out my tig. I've been in love ever since. It was like magic, I wonder why I had never tried it. With my tig I can get a stronger weld with no spatter. I can even stick out and build up bolts down in the hole. I find that the concentrated heat really works well for breaking rusted bolts. Generally the whole bolt is red hot but the surrounding area remains cooler, perfect conditions to break rust. I normally spray it hot with some penetrating oil and let it get drawn in.A few weeks ago I did an expensive bike rack that has a small bolt (#10-24) sheared flush. The customer asked that I drill it. Instead I built it up, slipped a nut over it, welded the nut. It came right out, barely finger tight after putting the heat to it. Only took a minute. I even let the customer watch using my spare hood. The customer was so impressed he took the extracted bolt to show his wife.
Reply:Nice save Duane If you get a chance give these a try.https://www.partsmaster.us/SitePages...?Code=02010305I talked a salesman into a couple of sample packs at work. They work great. I have successfully removed bolts that were broken off almost a full inch down in the hole. The only thing I dont like is you cant really SEE a puddle. Just gotta bury it down in and trust the rod to do its job.If you cant fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem."Boy, everyone starts with a full bag of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience before the bag of luck is empty."-Grandad circa 1990ish
Reply:We started working on my dads studebaker. It has very little rust but they used soft bolts. Most of the body bolts have broke of.I have better luck with washers and yes it may take a try or 2. I fixed the exhaust on a F700 the i lost count on the very back bolt.
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55MM200 = Millermatic 200.
Reply:Originally Posted by a1998z3Which process; mig, tig?
Reply:I have sold this to several refineries it works quite well.X-Tractalloy is a special application welding electrode designed for extracting broken bolts, studs and taps from threaded holes. • Saves time and money — reduces downtime and labor by getting parts back into service quickly • Versatile — X-Tractalloy will also remove broken screw extractors, taps and broken drill bits • Strong — tensile strength exceeds that of Grades 2, 5, 8, 8.8 and 10.9 bolts and stainless steel • IGNITOR TIP™ — for instant strike • Nonconductive flux — ceramic-like coating insulates threads to prevent damage from welding • All-positionFind it here:http://www.spartansafetysupply.com/S...&Submit=Search
Reply:Awesome Duane!  I spent time in a heavy machinery shop and had to do this A LOT. Always stick welded the studs and nut with 7018, being very careful with the surrounding threads. I never considered using the mig.Shortly before I left the shop they stocked some of the extractor-type rod (sorry I could not tell you exactly what we used) but I LOVED it. This actually became one of my favorite processes. That, and burning the big ones out with a torch, leaving the threads clean. But that is another thread. I <3 forehire's client taking the bolt home to his wife story!
Reply:Did this with last car and broken exhaust stud. Used my el cheapo harbor freight DC stick welder. First nut broke off, second one worked great!Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugMillermatic 200 is mig
Reply:I use that method all the time with success. The only difference is I use a big nut, say a 5/8" nut for your stud, I weld it blind, pointing the majority of the heat to the center. Almost all of the heat goes to the stud, rarely does it ever fuse to the parent material.  Again, keep doing it, each time it shrinks the stud even when it breaks. Sometimes it takes 5 or 6 times, but they always come out.
Reply:Good job.I find it much better using tig.Tim Beeker.