Hinge Help Please

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I am going to be attaching barrel hinges to the doors and frames of some hog traps I am building and I am just looking for a few pointers that more experienced welders on here may have. I did a quick search and found little pertinent information as to proper installation. I have the ability to do stick mig and tig, which would be the best? The base metal they will be attached to is 1-1/2" angle 1/8" thick and the hinges are machined out of 5/8" round stock. Also, what is the best way to insure alignment throughout the welding process? Should I track it to both pieces them run my beads, or should I attach them completely with a slow series of heavy tracks to keep the heat down? Is heat distortion really much of an issue here?Any help would be appreciated. I can provide pictures of the hinges if necessary. Thanks.Last edited by Standup Philosopher; 04-08-2012 at 10:18 PM.MM211Rigid chopsawDelta Drill Press
Reply:" Is heat distortion really much of an issue here? "Yes, too much penetration and you will weld the pin to the barrel, I have done about 30 hinges in the last couple of weeks and yesterday wala too much penetration and I bound up one bad. I ended up cutting it off and starting over.Position your pin and barrel preferably to the mating surface, clamp it up then tack it into place then use 1/2 inch ( or so ) welds to fill between the tacks. Something tells me there should be something you can dip the pin in which would inhibite the tendency to weld ( anti flux) but I don't know what it would be.If your going to stick weld it I would use 3/32 rod. I have been  using a mig with .035 wire with gasYou didn't say how thick the wall on your barrel was but that will make a difference. Thinner it is the easier it will be to over penetrate.Really they are not too bad, I was doing out of position stuff cause I didn't want to move the heavy box and got careless.
Reply:Thanks for the reply, I think in the end I will be using mig. The pins are 5/16" dia. and are a fairly right fit in the barrels. Someone has also suggested that I separate the hinge and weld the barrel first then insert the pin and weld it. I don't see a need for this other than the possibility of running long on a bead and welding the door shut. I feel that doing this may also result in a misalignment.MM211Rigid chopsawDelta Drill Press
Reply:When welding shop built hinges use the pin as your friend.The pin stock should be inserted, uncut, full length, in all the hinge barrels then weld the barrels.  This helps to keep everything in alignment.  When finished simple cut out the extra pin length.I build bale feeders with heavy doors.  I weld the hinges with the pin, and doors, in place as an assembled unit, then I lop off the excess pin.  Perfect fit every time."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:+1 what farmersamm said.  I'd run a long piece of rod through all the barrels.  Then align them and weld them on.  This way they are all in line and won't cause any binding when you open and close the door.You might want the pins on this to all point the same direction.  That way you can slide the door off later if you need to replace/repair it.  Use a cotter pin through one pin to hold the door on if you think you need it (a hairpin is better since you don't need pliers to remove it).  I'd try to make it so the door cannot be slid off when it's closed and not use a cotter/hair pin at all.Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:I found something in the archives.This is from a Playgirl photo shoot.  I believe they were gonna title it "America's Sexiest Welders"   Somehow it never made it into print The straps were welded to the barrels.  Then the door was lifted, braced, tacked, wedged, into it's fitted place.  Finally the pin was inserted thru both hinge assemblies (the pin was about 4" long), and the assemblies were welded in place on the fitted door.  Finally the excess pin was cut off with a razor wheel.  This door will open/close with finger pressure, and it's pretty heavy"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I meant......The pin was 4 FEET long"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammI found something in the archives.This is from a Playgirl photo shoot.  I believe they were gonna title it "America's Sexiest Welders"   Somehow it never made it into print
Reply:I clamp the barrels to the inside of a piece of angle iron.  Usually it is small stuff like 3/4 or one inch angle depending on the hinge.  that makes sure the barrels are lined up on the same vertical axis.  I then tack the barrels in position with say four good tacks.  I then install the pins in the barrels, set the gate in position up against the pins and then tack weld the pins securely.  I check that the gate moves freely and weld up everything in position moving around a lot to limit distortion.
Reply:For the hinges I have welded on, I use a level and weld the whole hinge on.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.