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So I went a little too far with the amps and electrode sizing at 1/8" to weld a bracket back on my mower deck for my husq riding mower. Most of the welds were 'ok', but where the was a slight gap between the mower deck and bracket, it melted the deck back. So how do I fill a hole on the side of the bracket on the mower deck? It's maybe 1/4" wide (at most). I'm using a stick welder. Should I dial it back to the 1/16 or 3/32 electrodes, add a little metal and then grind it down? How do I fix these dang holes
Reply:6011 rod (it's a fast freeze rod) and 3/32nds should work...do just a little bit at a time, let it cool, chip it, let it cool, then hit it again just a little bit more. The key is to take a peck at a time with it. It'll take you a while to fill it in but you should be able to do it. Don't try to get it all at once...just a little bite at a time will do the trick. With more practice you can learn how to control your heat input and weld more without burning holes in it. Especially for beginning stick welders, thinner material is often challenging. It heats up quick and the stick process isn't the best for thinner stuff, it gets tricky. I learned heat control for this kind of thing from my mentor. He cut up a bunch of old sprinkler pipe and made me weld a bunch of support frames, basically sawhorse type deals for him. Lots of joints per frame so lots of repetitive practice where I could experiment and learn. He made me learn to use both 1/8 and 3/32 7018 and 6011 rods and learn how to control my heat input on the thin stuff, and at first I would quickly blow holes in them. Finally I got to where I could weld each joint in one go without stopping. It's definitely a trick to it. It can be done you just have to learn how...until you do do a bit at a time and don't get in a rush to get it done.Last edited by JD955SC; 04-24-2014 at 12:27 AM.Hobart Stickmate LX235AC/160DCRanger 305GVictor 315 O/A rigHope to acquire in the next couple of years: Hypertherm PM45 and Dynasty 200DX
Reply:I use a fast freeze rod like 6010 or 6011, 3/32" should be fine, and run it at the low end of the box label amp range. I suck at filling gaps with 7018.
Reply:For filling holes I start on the edge and make the arc a little longer, and just go around the hole. Maybe dial back your amps a hair too, I'm not very good at telling people how to do stuff, I'm better at showing lol. Maybe someone else will be able to explain a little better. Best of luck to you
Reply:I will add one thing...you might want to get some scrap about the same thickness as your deck and purposely blow some holes in it and fill them up for practiceHobart Stickmate LX235AC/160DCRanger 305GVictor 315 O/A rigHope to acquire in the next couple of years: Hypertherm PM45 and Dynasty 200DX
Reply:Use a backing plateEither a piece of steel that you leave on, or copper / brassIt will heat sink heat out and the weld will not stick to it.
Reply:Get some 3/32 6011 or 6010.50-60amps.Stop and start.And then a grinder should fix the rest.~JohnJust a couple welders, big hammers, grinders, and torches.Work will free you.Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it. Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Reply:Depending on your proficiency you can knock the flux off a rod and use it as a filler rod. I lay it across the hole then it fills faster. Not sure I explained it well? like the previous poster I do better showing my technique than explaining it LOLGOD, GUNS,& GUTS Made America Free
Reply:could alway's use the ol' gap-fill, break the flux off a 7018 rod and use it as filler for another 7018, just the samea as if you were Tig welding.
Reply:Clamp a piece of aluminum behind the hole to keep the puddle from running out the back. Go slow and let things cool between short beads.Miller Dynasty 200DXMiller 252 Miller 250xMiller Syncrowave 250Miller AEAD200 LegendMiller 375 Xtreme plasmaLincoln WeldPak 100Victor O/A
Reply:What ttoks said but you can do it with 6011 or 6010. |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:14:25