Roller Tail Board

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Does anyone know how the bearing are supported in a Tail roller/ Roller tailboard? i am asking about the rollers on the back of winch trucks used allot in the oil fields to haul skids tanks etc. Pictures would be helpful I've searched and turned up with nothing. what style of bearing are they? any help would be much appreciated as i don't have one to look at.If it don't fit, use a bigger hammer, if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyhow.
Reply:Lots of different methods are used. Some people use ball bearings (not good for the really heavy duty rollers), roller bearings are used as well (better than ball for load carrying), but I've changed both out to simple bronze bushings (plain bearings) several times.   Sometimes the bearings are in the tube and a shaft sticks through them, other times the shaft or stub shaft sticks out of the roller and the bronze bearings are in the mounts.  In other words they're made just with just about any method that's been thought of.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Using bronze bushings doesn't oval out from ruff roads? and do you use a shaft all the way through the roller? i guess what i am asking is what is the best/ most durable way to build one? i dont mean to question you down but thanks for your helpIf it don't fit, use a bigger hammer, if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyhow.
Reply:I don't agree with the way the company I work for does it (mainly because it's non-serviceable and easily messed up during fab) but we use a length of 8" sch160 pipe for the roller with the ends machined to accept a SKF 23220 CC/W33 spherical roller bearing.  The "pocket" is sized so that you have a 10ga backer plate, spacer ring, bearing, spacer ring, and end cap.  The machined pins that fit the ID of the bearings and transfer the load to the 1" T1 endplates is made of 4140 q&t roundbar.  The pin is also drilled and tap for a grease zerk.MikeConstans Fides et IntegritasLincoln Weldanpower 150 ACAirco Aircomatic MIGet CAV II w/ spoolgunMillermatic 30a wirefeeder
Reply:Do you need a roller tailboard or a fairlead? I never had a roller but rather a pipe, (3-1/2" Sch 80) at the back of my power wagon, just something smooth to rub the cable over. I found that even if I began a pull with the cable straight back it always turned under strain. My winch is capable of breaking 25000 LB test cable. I built a square tube upside down U that fits in stake pockets in the back of the dump body. Three anchor points allow me to move a simple snatch block as needed. If you do need a roller tail for loading, consider using a heavy wall pipe, fitted to utilize front wheel bearings from a newer GM four wheel drive truck. These are heavy duty with flanges to bolt both ends to.
Reply:Originally Posted by jakebrake42Using bronze bushings doesn't oval out from ruff roads? and do you use a shaft all the way through the roller? i guess what i am asking is what is the best/ most durable way to build one? i dont mean to question you down but thanks for your help
Reply:Its to load skids onto a trailer so i figured use what works and oil field tech works.If it don't fit, use a bigger hammer, if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyhow.
Reply:Here's what I've made lately. They've apparently been happy since they've brought more of them back to be modified.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:The pin is also drilled and tap for a grease zerk.
Reply:It occurs to me that you can buy pins made for a three point hitch in a large size. Make a plate with a hole in it you will use to cap a heavy wall pipe. I would put two nuts on it, tack the nuts both in place. Before the pin gets hot, remove it and weld the nuts just enough to hold them in place. Test to make sure the pins will thread after cooling, some difficulty is a good thing. Cap the ends of your pipe with this welded well using care the pins are straight. After cooling, use red locktight on the threads, and tighten well. Replacement ends for large farm tractor 3 point hitch with a swiveling bored ball are available. In 100 years when they wear out, they are easy to replace.
Reply:Originally Posted by irish fixitHere's what I've made lately. They've apparently been happy since they've brought more of them back to be modified.
Reply:The need to weld the bushings in place will soften, but more importantly, misshape them. If you have an 8' lathe and line boring equipment, you could make holes to press the bushings into, the "axle" pins must be perfectly straight. I suggested the store bought Three point pins and weld on swivels as minor imperfections in straightness will be corrected by the ball swivels. Also unless your roller is incredibly stiff it will deflect under load straining the pins. I've had good performance with a three point similar device for unrolling heavy reels of underground power cable.
Reply:Originally Posted by jakebrake42Using tractor parts reminds me, i have some steel bushings from a backhoe line boring job i did what if i use steel bushings instead of the brass? what do you guys think of that? any reason they would be worse / better than brass or hiems?
Reply:I was planning on putting in the two sets of “helper Rollers” this will be moving a custom build Concrete mixer skid that weighs 70k  on a biweekly basis so I figured before we went and just put roller bearings into it I would ask thanks Willie B and irish fixit for all your help this helped a tonIf it don't fit, use a bigger hammer, if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyhow.
Reply:Wow, 70 K You can't move that.
Reply:Your moving a lot of weight but it can be done. You have to think outside the box. Get a couple of top track rollers from a bulldozer, use schedule 160 or double extra heavy pipe. If you have to turn the OD of the track rollers to fit snug into the pipe. Stitch the track rollers into the pipe and you have the best hardened bushings already running in oil. Build some bosses to bolt the shafts into and add your two center support rollers and your done. Have probably built 40 or so over the years and some are still working well. Hope this helps
Reply:if your going to be moving it on that frequent of a basis i would invest in a trailer built for oilfield work.    ITs going to beat the livin hell out of a regular step deckVantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:Ones that I've seen in use are like these.  There are generally rollers midway underneath the main roller, these help to prevent deflection of the main roller when moving heavy stuff.  A good number of oilfield trailers don't have jackstands, and are simply pulled up over the roller to get them attached to the fifth wheel.  Lot of weight, and a lot of abuse.Million different ways to do these things I guess.  Everyone seems to have an opinion.  These guys do it this way, and it seems to work out pretty good for them."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:It was originally going on a self contained trailer but now they want us to add the roller to an existing trailer, we build vac trailers and heavy use lowboys and step decks so this is no problem we just were not sure as how to mount the roller but this answers allot of questions ill see if i can get some picture of it up when we are doneIf it don't fit, use a bigger hammer, if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyhow.