Trying to fix a bridge.

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How hard would it be to weld these to iBeams with a 6011 rod?http://www.lowes.com/pd_175329-166-M...roduct_price|0
Reply:Depends greatly on your skill level, especially if you need to weld them on out of position.Just what are you doing that you need to weld those light weight angles to an I beam? I can't really think of a practical structural use for those even on wood structures other than as a supplemental brace...No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:It's for a bridge. We have changed the wood a few times because it warps and i want a good way to make it last. I just want to screw these onto the board and then tack the metal to the iBeams so it holds solid. May not sound like a good idea but having trouble coming up with a good solution to connecting wood to metal without drilling the iBeams.
Reply:And a cheap way.
Reply:opencirclesYou may find an answer on a trailer-house builder forum, but not on a welding forum.Opus
Reply:I'm still not visualizing how you are going to use these. Do you have a drawing of pict? Maybe my vision of "bridge" is different than what you are trying to accomplish.The material is light steel and you can bend them in your hands, let alone when you add a length of lumber to create a fulcrum. If I was going to make clips to hold wood to the steel, I'd at least go with real angle iron rather than something that thin.As far as cost, Lowes wouldn't be my choice for steel material usually. I'm betting you can get real angle iron for roughly the same price per foot in full length from a steel supplier..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Thew this together really quick. The Bridge just runs across a creek and if you know of a better way to do this then please tell. Also, i don't know of any metal suppliers in this area.Last edited by opencircles; 12-06-2012 at 01:50 AM.
Reply:Threw this together really quick. The Bridge just runs across a creek and if you know of a better way to do this then please tell. Also, i don't know of any metal suppliers in this area Attached ImagesLast edited by opencircles; 12-06-2012 at 01:50 AM.
Reply:OK now it makes more sense. I was thinking the brackets were going on the side of the beam, not the top.I doubt brackets are the way to go. Yes they might be easy to instal now, but I think when you need to replace a board in the future you will have issues trying to remove and reattach the boards. 1st though would be bolts, just like most heavy trailers have their boards attached. However that would mean drilling the beams which you said you would rather not do. Adding a piece of perforated strip or angle to the beams might solve the drilling issue as you simply put the bolts thru the strip welded to the edge of the beam instead.2nd thought would be clips that grab the edge of the beam. Pretty much the same idea as bolts, but instead of going thru the beam, you go thru an off set "washer" that would grab the flange of the beam when you tighten the nut. I'll think on this a bit and see if I can't think of any other easy solutions.As far as where to get steel, look in the phone book under "steel supplier". If you add your location to your User CP at the top left so we know where you are located, some one here might be able to  make suggestions on suppliers as well..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:How about if i use channel and drill and screw the board from the top? Any idea how much a piece of channel goes for per foot?
Reply:Can you bolt a nail plate to the beams and then nail boards down?Another option would be to take some flat bar and cut some clamps. I imagine your using some thick boards for your decking. Cut a square and drill a hole in it. Tack a bar to one edge of the plate that is at least as thick as the i-beam. This will act as a fulcrum. Drill and bolt through the planks and draw the clamp tight. If your deck boards are wide you may want to adjust the design for two bolts each. If you give some more dimensions we may be able to give some other ideas. See my quality "cad" drawing. Attached Images
Reply:The bridge is my grandmothers and has said she would rather not have the beams but or drilled. I had thought about the clamp idea but didn't know how much it would cost to do the bridge has 16-18 boards and 3 ibeams.
Reply:Anyone think this would be an alright idea? Just put the channel on the board and weld it straight to the iBeam. Attached Images
Reply:Not sure this will work with your design but it may. Very simple plate bolted or nailed to the beam with has a slot that clips to the beam. Here a couple of photos from bridgehunter.http://bridgehunter.com/il/sangamon/bolivia/ Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by opencirclesAnyone think this would be an alright idea? Just put the channel on the board and weld it straight to the iBeam.
Reply:The Boards have about an 1 - 1 1/2 in gap.
Reply:I think the C channel will end up costing too much compared to other methods..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:What about putting angle iron on both sides of the bridge and putting the ends of each board in the angle to keep it from moving side to side. Then use small steel plates and screw/bolt the boards to each other. With the boards held to each other and held in place by the angle it can't go anywhere, unless it floods and floats off the angle. Would also be very easy to replace bad boards, remove screw/bolts holding the boards together and lift out. Then replace with new and fasten them down to the other board again.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Do you have access to the underside? Make your clips from a short length of angle iron and lag into the plank. Cheap and easy. Attached Images
Reply:Lots of good ideas here.  I would probably use a torx self tapper like a trailer deck uses myself.Your thing says your in huntington wv, that's a decent size town.  so I googled huntington w va steel supply and gotHuntington steel & supply co. as a top hit. Their website looks like they can sell you whatever structural steel you would need.
Reply:Lol i have a buddy that works there completely forgot about it. And to forhire i can get under the bridge easily im going to see how much i can get some angle for and see if your idea will work.
Reply:What about Ramset and washer pins?http://www.ramset.com/ramset__pwdr_intro.asphttp://www.ramset.com/fasteners_powder.aspYou can take the "licensing exam" online.http://www.ramset.com/ramtest/a001_begin.htmlblam- blam- blam blam...Done.When the lumber rots grind the heads off, pry the lumber up, grind off the stub of the pin and start over.Last edited by app-ironworksllc; 12-06-2012 at 08:59 AM.Brian LeonardAppalachian Ironworks L.L.C.434 Long Branch Rd, Marshall, NC 28753828 649 9966828 702 [email protected]
Reply:I might  weld a ~1" bolt or threaded rod to the tops of the beams and drill holes in the wood, C-bore the wood for a washer and a thin nylock nut, if you are bound not to drill beams.Me, id have trailer decking screws per cd19 in that thing in a minute, and sell granny on a job done fast and easyLast edited by Fred s; 12-06-2012 at 09:01 AM.Experience is something you get right after you need it
Reply:Originally Posted by app-ironworksllcWhat about Ramset and washer pins?http://www.ramset.com/ramset__pwdr_intro.asphttp://www.ramset.com/fasteners_powder.aspYou can take the "licensing exam" online.http://www.ramset.com/ramtest/a001_begin.htmlblam- blam- blam blam...Done.When the lumber rots grind the heads off, pry the lumber up, grind off the stub of the pin and start over.
Reply:Yeah I though of self tappers and Hilti pins last night, but figured if he doesn't want to drill the beams those options wouldn't agree with him.Depot around me rents the Hilti guns to shoot the pins, but I'm not sure if they have the "good" heavy duty loads for steel and the right pins in stock. Of course he could simply get bridge grating and weld it on and be done with it practically forever..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald ReaganOriginally Posted by cd19LOL I really wanted to suggest this but decided to hold back, I don't thinks it's for everyone.
Reply:I think they need to get over the drilling holes thing, your not hurting the beam with a 3/8 hole
Reply:Probably doesn't even need to be a 3/8" hole. We used to use the cheapest grade of 1/4" bolts we could find to secure the decking boards to the big trailer. That way when we needed to remove them, You'd simply put the impact on then and twist them off if they didn't loosen up. Fender washers dealt with  simply pulling the heads thru the boards when we cranked them down to begin with.Don't want to drill holes, but you can weld all over the beam... .No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Geesh!!Just tack some light flat to the underside of the flanges, then run some self tapping screws thru the lightweight flat where it sticks out from underneath the flange.Do the welds away from the outside edge of the flange, this is the crucial area.  Weld towards the web.  As these would be longitudinal welds it shouldn't cause much in the way of weakening of the beams.  It's another matter when you weld at a right angle to the flange (across the flange), these welds have to terminate short of the outside edge of the flange or there's serious weakening of the flange.Doesn't take much to hold the flats either.  1" weld every coupla feet or so.  They've been building heavy duty trailers this way for decades."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Another thingFact is, no matter how secure you fasten lumber.......it's gonna warp with time and pull through the fasteners  Treated lumber goes a long way in solving this problem.Outta here   People in Tulsa are waiting to dig their hands in my wallet"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I use 5/16" torx floor screws all the time to attach trex or 2X wood to steel marina beams.  I drill a 17/64 hole on most steel, if it is thicker I go up to 9/32
Reply:I think I'd just run some treated lumber lengthwise under the cross boards.  Like the stringers in a pallet.  Screw or lag bolt them together.  You could even get fancy and rip a notch that hooks under the beam flange.  Simple."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:is this strictly a food bridge or so vehicles cross it too?There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:I threw together a quick sketch on paint for you. This method is quick and easy to do and hopefully my drawing is self explanatory. Attached ImagesNothing Ever Got Done By Quitting, Never Give Up.
Reply:For several years in the late 1980's I built wooden decks and bridges for at a tourist attraction and would like to offer a few comments on the warping and twisting of PT planks used for decking:Wood swells and shrinks with changes in moisture content.  You can't stop that.  The best way to minimizes this is to use radial-sawn or quarter-sawn lumber and keep it painted....  but other than some exotic woods or special purpose lumber radial-sawn is unheard of today and quarter-sawn is extremely rare.  Certainly neither is available with commercial pressure-treated lumber (typically Southern Yellow Pine).  Next best advice, and this applies to PT lumber of any variation in species or chemical process (CCA, ACQ, "Wolmanized", "Penta", etc) is to coat it with sealer periodically, in some environments you may need to do this annually.   The PT chemicals do not protect the wood from the effects of moisture (rain, snow, etc) and sun.  The PT chemicals (poison) only protect against organic attack: insects, fungus, and bacteria.  The sealer however will reduce the tendency of the wood to absorb moisture and will reduce the tendency for the fibers to get baked by radiation from the sun.   Other than putting a roof over it you can't do much else about warpage across wide unsupported spans greater than 12 inches or so.  When replacing boards try to install each with the crown of the grain up.   Look at the end of each board before installing and look to see how the grain appears to be "crowned".  When damp the wood will swell more on the crown up side than on the bottom and installing with the crown up will help to keep water running off and reduce the tendency for the edges to raise causing "trippers" for pedestrians.  - Of course if the top is exposed to the beaming sun all day and the bottom is only inches above a damp surface such as a bog or swamp then all bets are off.  The board will swell on the bottom and shrink on the top tending to form a cup on top.  Still, installing the natural crown up will reduce this but may not prevent it.To mimimize rot and get the greatest life expectancy try to hand-select each board at time of purchase.  (This may be easy to do for a small job, but is not practical for a larger project for which lumber is shipped by the "lift". )  Avoid boards that have large pitch-pockets.  Areas of pitch concentration will not absorb the treatment chemicals, the pitch will wash out when exposed to the weather, and these are the areas that will rot first, sometimes within only one or two years.Good luck!- MondoMember, AWSLincoln ProMIG 140Lincoln AC TombstoneCraftsman Lathe 12 x 24 c1935Atlas MFC Horizontal MillCraftsman Commercial Lathe 12 x 36 c1970- - - I'll just keep on keepin' on.
Reply:See drawiing in Post # 19 from Forhire:  Originally Posted by forhireDo you have access to the underside? Make your clips from a short length of angle iron and lag into the plank. Cheap and easy.