Wrestling ring.

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Hi, I know there are probably some off the wall things posted here, so here goes. If you look at my hobbies, you see that I am in the Pro Wrestling business. My ring is needing a little TLC. Not a big deal, all of the welding and other things that need to be done I can do.     The rope hooks are a little small for this ring, they're 3/8". I'm not sure if anyone here is familliar with wrerstling rings, or how they work, but this ring is what they call a flex-beam ring. It, in my honest opinion, is the best type of design due to it's durability, and ease of setup. The rope hooks are the most important part and need to be safely welded onto the ringposts, as all the stress in a wrestling ring is through the ropes, and one of the most dangerous parts of Pro Wrestling is running the ropes, because if they break, the resulting injuries can be EXTREMELY serious.     As many of you who have experience in metal know, when you have things like ropes around a ring, you also have to have something at the base of the posts, what we call a "spider", holding the base of the posts firmly. As many of you can guess from the name "spider", it's basically just good sized cables, cris-crossed at the base of the posts, and tightened with turnbuckles. I's much like a counter weight on a piece of heavy equipment in that it pulls opposite of the ropes, and without it, the entire ring collapses on itself, all wrestling rings MUST have this.     All of this is well and good so far, no big deal. Now, to the rope hooks. They should be no smaller than 1/2". The ring that we used to own, we had some new posts made, and when they formed the rope hooks, they were circular, not pointed (again, no big deal, I think I can round them with some torch heat, and bending around a peice of 2" metal conduit to make them round), but when they were attatched, the base of the hooks were bent in kind of an L-shape, inserted into holes made in the posts, lined up, and welded so that even if the weld were to break, the bent ends would prevent the hook from flying out. I hope that is not confusing. I was wondering if there are thoughts on this method? Is this overkill? Or a good extra measure toward safety? The ring posts on the current ring are 4" ID, 4 1/2" OD (1/4" wall thickness). Is it best to blow in the holes needed with a torch? Or would that be too sloppy? I do have a nice Craftsman drill Press, but the posts would be way too heavy for it.     I hope my pics will shed some light, I am hoping to complete this in the next couple of weeks, and take some finished pictures after paint, ropes, and canvas to post here.Thanks all!!Todd Attached Images
Reply:First of, hire a pro to do the welding.  I see porosity in some of those welds on the hooks.   Also I would not use rebar in the design at all.   Properly welded anchors will not break.  Esp if you inspect them before each use.   If as you say failure could result in significant injury.  You will be first on the list to be sued if that happens.  And you will be negligent if a weld you did failed.  (Negligence makes any liability release and contract obsolete and u cannot bar anyone from suing you for it)  AKA do not have proof it was done by a pro and thus shifting liability off you.   If you have to ask "will it hold/be strong enough" YOU should not be the one welding on it...Last edited by soutthpaw; 12-09-2012 at 01:34 PM.Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawFirst of, hire a pro to do the welding.
Reply:The main problem with rebar is a lot of times it will harden and break right at the end of the weld bead (HAZ) and also where it is bent if it is heated to make the bend.My suggestion would be to use cold roll in place of rebar. put on a good weld.Trailblazer 302Hobart Stickmate AC/DCLincoln SP 135 TSmith torchSpoolmatic 30A
Reply:Buy or make something like these pear-shaped rigging links.  Slip them over the tube and weld into place.  http://store.riggingcentral.com/pear-links-c67.aspxEdit: clean things off a bit and go over the existing welds with an O/A torch and some filler.  High carbon rebar likes the heat, so you don't get embrittled welds. Attached ImagesLast edited by Oldendum; 12-09-2012 at 02:46 PM."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Originally Posted by shortarcThe main problem with rebar is a lot of times it will harden and break right at the end of the weld bead (HAZ) and also where it is bent if it is heated to make the bend.My suggestion would be to use cold roll in place of rebar. put on a good weld.
Reply:Originally Posted by OldendumBuy or make something like these pear-shaped rigging links.  Slip them over the tube and weld into place.  http://store.riggingcentral.com/pear-links-c67.aspxEdit: clean things off a bit and go over the existing welds with an O/A torch and some filler.  High carbon rebar likes the heat, so you don't get embrittled welds.
Reply:If you are worried about things giving way, a couple wraps of paracord or mil-spec tubular nylon webbing from the rope around the back side of the post will give you fail-safe protection. There's nothing wrong with rebar as long as you treat it as mystery metal.  Assume it has a rather high carbon content and weld accordingly.  I've seen those links also twisted at 90 degrees in case you have to orient things differently.P.S.  I briefly wrestled in high school.  But they wanted me to slim down and do the 98 pound class.  I was a 112 pound weakling and I figured the only way I could meet weight would be to have holes drilled in my head.Last edited by Oldendum; 12-09-2012 at 04:12 PM."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Todd, the reason I pointed out the whole liability issue is once you have been around this forum a while you will see we get dozens of people asking to build something with no knowledge of welding proceedure or what they are doing.  thus creating a big potential risk for the user.  You did not indicate your welding ability in the initial post and also did not state you bought it as shown in the pic.    you just said your wrestling ring needed some Fixin' .Also the rings I have seen have a huge amount of flex in them.  Only one I saw up close was at E3 expo about 10 years back.  I bet it must have flexed a foot in the center at times.  it was Sting and Bret Hart that did the demo.   that one looks overbuilt for the mat.  Maybe you have a big riser on it first then add the floor?is there any consideration that wrestlers like to slam each others bodies and heads into the outside turnbuckles?   smooth vs having a protrusion on the postLast edited by soutthpaw; 12-09-2012 at 04:19 PM.Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Originally Posted by OldendumIf you are worried about things giving way, a couple wraps of paracord or mil-spec tubular nylon webbing from the rope around the back side of the post will give you fail-safe protection. There's nothing wrong with rebar as long as you treat it as mystery metal.  Assume it has a rather high carbon content and weld accordingly.  I've seen those links also twisted at 90 degrees in case you have to orient things differently.P.S.  I briefly wrestled in high school.  But they wanted me to slim down and do the 98 pound class.  I was a 112 pound weakling and I figured the only way I could meet weight would be to have holes drilled in my head.
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawTodd, the reason I pointed out the whole liability issue is once you have been around this forum a while you will see we get dozens of people asking to build something with no knowledge of welding proceedure or what they are doing.  thus creating a big potential risk for the user.  You did not indicate your welding ability in the initial post and also did not state you bought it as shown in the pic.    you just said your wrestling ring needed some Fixin' .Also the rings I have seen have a huge amount of flex in them.  Only one I saw up close was at E3 expo about 10 years back.  I bet it must have flexed a foot in the center at times.  it was Sting and Bret Hart that did the demo.   that one looks overbuilt for the mat.  Maybe you have a big riser on it first then add the floor?is there any consideration that wrestlers like to slam each others bodies and heads into the outside turnbuckles?   smooth vs having a protrusion on the post