Critique my welds, part II

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Well, I hesitate to even post these up here, because I can see several glaring issues, even with my untrained eye. However, only perfect practice makes perfect, and I want to get better, so lay into me fellas.  All beads are on 3/8" plate. 1:  1/8" 7018 DCEP 125AHD Version:2:  1/8" 6011 DCEP 125A HD Version:Ok guys, lay into 'em. I want to learn!
Reply:I wish DSW or some of the other really good welder / teachers would look because it helps me to see welds and hear their analysis.  They've watched students weld miles and know what produces what.  The one thing I *think* I see is a lack of consistency with your speed and maybe arc length on the 7018s.  Looks like an inch or two in you sneezed on a number of the 7018 beeds, but I suspect maybe you are readjusting your position and then changing your speed and sometimes direction. You almost want to drag the rod flux on the metal surface.  there's a little cone formed as the rod melts and the flux burns slightly slower.  Keeping the edge of the flux cone right at or near the metal helps make the arc length consistent and about right.On the 6011's some of the same thing - looks like you are readjusting your position.  Speed looks more consistent.  I think you're a bit hot though.  If you look back at your previous post, there's a picture someone posted of 6011 or maybe 6010 and it showed the "dimes" very clearly.  125 amps I think is at the high end, so your beads are more liquid looking to my eye.I'd get in a better position with the 7018 so you can move smoothly as the rod burns keeping the flux close to the metal, and just start running beads to get consistent.  Nothing terrible about yours.  On the 6011, same thing but dial it down and you'll have the added practice of whipping the rod to make the little dime pattern.  You'll have to watch the puddle a lot more.  Let it fill in a bit, whip away for a moment to let it freeze up, back to the puddle, etc. moveing a bit each time to stack them up.Good work!
Reply:I'm having a case of Deja vu.  I thought I posted a reply already but I guess I didn't.. weird.  anyway.. Not bad for a beginner.  Keep practicing.  I second on learning to whip the rod.  And remember to watch the puddle and not the arc.At workMillermatic 252Syncrowave 250DXAt HomeLincoln Pro Mig 140Lincoln AC/DC 225/125
Reply:I think I might go grab a 5 lb box of 1/8" 6010/6011 rod and just start burning. Opinions? Should I get 1/8" or something different?  6010 or 6011? Or 6013 to learn on?What amp should I be running on 3/8" steel for practicing laying beads?I am almost positive I am adjusting my position a couple inches in. I am building my bigger bench, but until then I am using a 1'x1' table, so no place to rest against. I guess I need to figure out how to put my feet so I can move more smoothly. I've been studying my dad's old welding tech textbook and I think I'm holding the rod too far out of 15* rod angle. I think I was closer to 30* or so. I will readjust and post more once my previous questions get answered. Thanks so far guys.
Reply:Hi Brian. They're not horrible welds. It looks like you basically know what you're doing.125A may be a bit low for 1/8" 7018 especially when welding flat. Try 140-150 amps. (Note: 125A might be a good setting for vertical-up with 1/8" 7018, but you're not at that level yet.)The 7018 welds look just a tad too cold and some of them are obviously too fast..  Also you just need more practice. It looks like you're having a hard time seeing the outlines of the puddle with 7018 with your hood down.The most effective way to judge travel speed is looking at the length of your puddle. The length should not be more than about 1.5 times the width. It should be a nice oval with the shape of a long-ish chicken egg... In addition the width should be about 2.5x to 3x  the diameter of your rod when you're welding completely flat beads.  Too wide = too slow. Too long = too fast. For welding fillets the puddle diameter is about 2x the diameter of the rod with 7018. That has to do with the geometry of the joint. it's just going to be a smaller puddle.Your 1/8" 6011 welds look better. This is because 6011 requires less current because the flux coating is thinner. It takes less heat energy to melt it.Among the 6011 samples the second weld from the top shows you the perfect puddle shape. A barnyard hen would be proud. Make your 7018 welds like that and you'll be on your way. Last edited by Joshfromsaltlake; 06-11-2012 at 04:49 AM.
Reply:one note on body position, start in a less comfortable position, and move into a better position as you weld rather than starting in a comfortable position and moving away.Dynasty 200DXPassport plus w/ spoolmate 100victor 315c oxy/(act and prop)Miller digital elitemilwaukee power tools
Reply:Originally Posted by 67lemansI'm having a case of Deja vu.  I thought I posted a reply already but I guess I didn't.. weird.  anyway.. Not bad for a beginner.  Keep practicing.  I second on learning to whip the rod.  And remember to watch the puddle and not the arc.
Reply:Turk, that's a dang good idea about body positioning. I'll try it. Josh, thanks!!  I needed specifics on diameter and shape of the puddle. I don't let myself get distracted from looking at the puddle, which has helped considerably. I've thought about going to a 8 shade instead of 10. On the 7018 electrodes, I can only go to 125A on DC, should I switch to AC and bump up to ~150A?Where should I be running my 6011?  I know the shape of the bead will show the appropriate amp range. However, I'm welding on 3/8" plate, which is why I've been running hot/in the upper range.  Is that not appropriate?  How do I know I'm getting appropriate penetration and fusion at a certain amp setting?  I do know that I'm missing my dad's infinite adjustment on his IdealArc. I may try to sell mine and buy one of those, as it seems I'd have an easier time using it for scratch start TIG, which is my next goal after getting my SMAW straightened out. I have a hose/regulator/torch WeldTec/Tec Torch Company setup that came with my welder.
Reply:Spatter= rod angle Is offBead inconsistency - watch the size of the puddle, try and keep it the same size all the wAy through the weld6010- whip hold whip hold thAt is the pattern you weld 6010, also 125 maybe be alittle much to handle with 6010 for you turn it down to 100 amps and Learn there then step upMiller bobcat 225g  - spoolmatic 1Mm250 - 30a spoolMiller spectrum 375Thermal arc 95 Everlast Ex 250As the boiler turns, these are the days of our lives
Reply:So, what you're saying then is 125 is appropriate for the thickness of the metal, but I need to practice my technique because 100 is easier than 125?  How will I be able to practice at a lower amp than appropriate and know what a bead should look like?  I'm serious, not being snarky. I need to learn.
Reply:Hey Brian,This may be a bit unconventional, but I think you're best bet is pick one rod like 7018, one plate thickness, and one amp setting, DCEP and about a 10-15 degree angle.  Don't worry about which amperage, undercutting, slag inclusions, whipping, weaving.  Just focus on learning to get in a good position like Turk said and moving into a better position.  Just work on your forward speed constant, rod angle constant, and arc length constant and the rod tip at the lead edge of the puddle.   Quench your plate after each weld or two so the temperature is the same.If it's a cold weld, doesn't matter.  Make them ALL cold and ugly as long as they look the same, overlapping one bead on the next for a pound of rod or so.  Once you're consistent then turn up the amps a bit until you see what looks like a good amperage, and burn another pound.  Amps, rod choice, polarity, steel thickness, is all at your finger tips.  What you're working on is your sense of speed, body position, rod angle, feeding the rod.  Don't change the other stuff cuz it's harder to figure out what is causing the change - you or the amps, rod, polarity, etc.On positioning, if you ever shot skeet, you might remember you set up your feet in a comfortable position directed toward the sweet spot where you intend to break the clay bird, then twist our body back toward the skeet house.  That way you can see the bird and swing into a good position, rather than start in a good position and twisting out of position.  Make sense?  Set up comfortable about 6" into the weld bead, then move back and start your arc and move into that perfect position.  Remember your rod will be getting shorter and you'll be moving your stinger hand down as you move from start to the sweet spot.I think you're well on your way where you are now.  Bon apetit and hope this helps.
Reply:I'm a big fan of videos for teaching.  Try this one out and it will help.
Reply:Originally Posted by Brian.EvansSo, what you're saying then is 125 is appropriate for the thickness of the metal, but I need to practice my technique because 100 is easier than 125?  How will I be able to practice at a lower amp than appropriate and know what a bead should look like?  I'm serious, not being snarky. I need to learn.
Reply:Thanks guys. I have shot skeet often, and didn't even draw the parallels between the two. I will try that. I am going to start using 6011 1/8" only and get comfortable with that before I do anything else. I have a piece of 5/16" x 4" angle that I plan on filling up with beads. Actually, I have a bunch of it, so I should be able to get better quickly, I hope. Look for "Critique My Welds, part III", coming soon.
Reply:If you're running a series of stringer beads on a small piece of scrap eventually the piece will get to hot & you'll get a lot of splatter & arc blow, pause every once and awhile & let it cool off to the point you can touch it with your hand.
Reply:I dont have a arc welder or have ever used 1 but to me it looks like your using no technique like in mig with (e or half moon) idk if that technique works with arc welding. It also looks like the speed of your movements are all over need to keep steady speed.
Reply:DaveI for one am glad you posted that Vid, I learned a good bit. Also you can see the puddle so its easy to see what he is talking about. Now in that vid he talked about the running of the commen rods. My question, yes Im still confused is whats the differance in the 6011 and 6013? I know in my Lincoln catalouge it says 6013 is for short runs and sheet metal. Why cant I use 6013 in place of the 6011 as I can run both fairly well, but the 6013 rund so much better for me. Is the 6013 a deep penertrating rod? TIALearning one rod at a time
Reply:6013 is a general purpose rod and 6010 and 6011 are deep penatrating rods.
Reply:Vince_o  - I'm glad the video helped - I think vids are the next best thing to having someone there teaching you.I agree with LarryO, here is a reference to look at for easy questions like rod type.  http://www.airgas.com/content/detail...=7000000000137Also, if you like 6013 then run it   Most people have favorites based on thier technique, local availability, type of machine, etc etc....
Reply:Take the rod 7018 and let's break it down......70 - 70k tensile strength1 - position. 1 being all positions (flat, horizontal, vertical and overhead)8 - flux  composition, amount of flux and contents. 7018 has a high iron content and is a fast fill rod (6010 is a fast freeze rod, hence the whipping)Miller bobcat 225g  - spoolmatic 1Mm250 - 30a spoolMiller spectrum 375Thermal arc 95 Everlast Ex 250As the boiler turns, these are the days of our lives