Grinding Aluminum

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Our fire department just got a new boat from USCG surplus, but the radar tower was too tall to fit under the bridges between our lakes. I cut the tower off with my plasma, but there is still a short lip, about a half inch, that needs to be taken down. Any ideas about the best way to grind it down. I was thinking flap wheels? I dont usually do much aluminum grinding.Cain's Mechanical LLC Southwick, MAwww.cainsmechanical.comRig:-2006 Chevy 2500 utility body-Lincoln Ranger 10-Miller Spectrum -Tons of hand and power toolsAWS D1.2 Structural Steel Certification
Reply:36 grit sanding disc and some stick wax or wd 40.
Reply:They make specially designed alum grinding wheels designed not to load up and remove a lot of material.http://keenabrasives.com/Type%2027%2...20Aluminum.htmSanding disks also work if used as above..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:If you plan to re-weld, I advise you not to grind. If it is a small area, use a file designed for aluminum, if it is several square inches a rotatry file (burr), if it is really large, than a powered plane with carbide inserts. Grinding aluminum and then welding can cause a lot of porosity.
Reply:Just curious what kind of boat did y'all get a Safe? The 23' ones are a blast
Reply:I would use a aluminum bit in my die grinder if its just a small part that needs removed. If you have a lot to remove I would say use a 4inch wheel from cryo-vision it is based more on the design of a rotor style wood bit, these things are a widow maker be careful they remove alot of material in short order, but expensive. A flap wheel will tend to fill up on you but may work for your situation. Good luck Dale Attached ImagesLast edited by power; 07-05-2012 at 09:11 PM.
Reply:Aluminum-specific grinding wheel for a 4.5" angle grinder is what I'd use.  They shed grains quickly enough, so as to not load up.  Welding immediately after grinding with them also works great.  No problems with contamination.  Absolutely no post-grinding steps necessary before welding for great results.You can weld right after using a flap wheel only if you take it slow enough so as to not get things so hot as to overheat the aluminum and "smear" the surface.  There you no "speed limit" with the aluminum-specific grinding wheel (or at least, that speed limit is much higher), you can just go to town with them.  They are fast.
Reply:stick wax on a resin fiber disc.when the disc stops cutting just touch it with the wax again and its like brand new.  It welds just fine after without any cleanup.
Reply:Btw those abrasive aluminum specific grinding wheels remove material FAST.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Originally Posted by power
Reply:Where ever I have worked they have been too cheap to buy the aluminum specific grinding disks, but any of the disks good for stainless will work for aluminum.Nothing Ever Got Done By Quitting, Never Give Up.
Reply:hit it with the plasma again
Reply:Originally Posted by KelvinI bet that would make you sit up and take notice if it got caught in your shirt!
Reply:Originally Posted by Doug247Where ever I have worked they have been too cheap to buy the aluminum specific grinding disks, but any of the disks good for stainless will work for aluminum.
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverThe aluminum only ones work much faster and I think they're basically the same price.
Reply:I also use standard sanding discs; 60 grit works well.  I also use a bit of beeswax on them to keep their cutting action effective.  I guess most any wax will work.  I tried WD40 once, but it was kinda messy.  If you use a file, get some of those large sidewalk chalk crayons and load the file with it - it does a good job keeping the file clean.- "If ya can't be handsome, ya may as well be handy!"   HTP Invertig 201Lincoln Power Mig 255CLincoln SP125+Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38
Reply:Originally Posted by Garauld... If you use a file, get some of those large sidewalk chalk crayons and load the file with it - it does a good job keeping the file clean.
Reply:Sawzall.Two turn tables and a microphone.
Reply:and a wood cutting blade.  6 TPI.
Reply:Originally Posted by boatbuilder36 grit sanding disc and some stick wax or wd 40.
Reply:Originally Posted by B_C+ that
Reply:Why is everyone promoting a ferrous grindind wheel instead of just buying a aluminum wheel.If you could find an aluminum cuttoff wheel that might be best. Lay a straight edge on the 'keep' side of the cut and trace against it with the cutoff wheel.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:36 grit disc. I always use toilet ring wax. $2.00 for the whole ring. I just reuse the stick, it does get messing when refilling it.
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverWhy is everyone promoting a ferrous grindind wheel instead of just buying a aluminum wheel.If you could find an aluminum cut-off wheel that might be best. Lay a straight edge on the 'keep' side of the cut and trace against it with the cutoff wheel.
Reply:exactly how much grinding are we talking here? would a cut off wheel not be quicker for removing 1/2" of material?IW Local 580 NY, NYI'd cut it down with a porta-band (or sawsall) and do the final shaping with an aluminum burr on the die grinder.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by sundowniiii'd cut it down with a porta-band (or sawsall) and do the final shaping with an aluminum burr on the die grinder.