Removing a broken ez-out

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I broke a head bolt in a small briggs motor, after drilling a small hole and using an ez-out i broke it off in the hole. then i drilled the ez-out out and tried another ez-out with some heat, well that broke off in the hole too, besides drilling and retapping, any suggestions on how to removethe bolt and ez-out?
Reply:Weld a nut to it then use a wrench.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Any of it sticking out?I had a broken stud in my head once so I put a nut on the end and welded it and it came right out. Took 2 a few tries though.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:As has been stated already - weld a nut on.If below the surface, will have to build up first.Could take a few tries as pointed out already.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleI had a broken stud in my head once so I put a nut on the end and welded it and it came right out. Took 2 a few tries though.
Reply:Your first problem is that you tried to use a ez out. They are notorious for breaking, and being harder than any normal drill, they can be a b**** to get out - and you can't drill out the rest of screw as long as there is a undrillable piece of ez out stuck in it. If some of the screw is sticking out you can file two flat faces on it, grip it hard with vise grips and hopefully get it loose. Whacking the end of the screw with a hammer a couple of times first can really help breaking loose the oxides that siezed the screw to begin with, and some heat will help too.If it's broken off flush with the surface welding a nut to it would be what I'd try, if I had a suitable welder. In your case, with a EZ Out already jammed in the broken screw... If it's a small (cheap) B&S engine you could easily replace, I would seriously think about doing just that if the EZ out and the screw doesn't come out after some time trying. I do love to fix broken stuff, but there comes a limit to how much time and effort I will spend to repair something I can replace for 10-20-30-40$.
Reply:Most likely would not be cost effective but most big machine shops have tap disintegrators specifically for removing broken off taps from expensive machined parts.  Its essentially an EDM machine.
Reply:ill post a picture of it when i get back to the shop after christmas break, but the bolt is damn near flush, maybe 3/32" sticking out. my fear is melting the head, my shop teacher is a dumb*** and really doesnt know what he's doing so im kinda on my own idea wise
Reply:Originally Posted by one.track.mindill post a picture of it when i get back to the shop after christmas break, but the bolt is damn near flush, maybe 3/32" sticking out. my fear is melting the head, my shop teacher is a dumb*** and really doesnt know what he's doing so im kinda on my own idea wise
Reply:Originally Posted by one.track.mindill post a picture of it when i get back to the shop after christmas break, but the bolt is damn near flush, maybe 3/32" sticking out. my fear is melting the head, my shop teacher is a dumb*** and really doesnt know what he's doing so im kinda on my own idea wise
Reply:A trick I've used before is to drill the hole for the easy out, heat the bolt and surrounding metal and then  squirt brake clean into the hole in the bolt. It cools the bolt as the surrounding metal is still hot and breaks the grip on the threads. The bolt then comes out easily by hand. YMMV.Brake clean would then preclude you from welding a nut on it, see the safety sticky...
Reply:Originally Posted by JerryCBrake clean would then preclude you from welding a nut on it, see the safety sticky...
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55If below the surface, will have to build up first.
Reply:[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6w2grAV-oc[/ame]Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Where in MI are you? I'm a stones throw from Detroit. If you're near, I can help you. I've extracted 1000's of broken bolts. In the mean time, you should soak in some wd-40 repeatedly. Rusted steel bolt in aluminum can be an m f'er.http://www.facebook.com/LockhartMetalArthttp://www.facebook.com/pages/Grumpy...44306259043484
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleSay the bolt broke below the surface, how do you build it up (any welding method) without the filler sticking to the surrounding area?
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleSay the bolt broke below the surface, how do you build it up (any welding method) without the filler sticking to the surrounding area?
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Nice method.However, due to the heat, any remnents of a brake cleaner would be gone by the time one got set up to weld a nut on.  Besides, it would have to be a can of chlorinated (not so popular anymore) cleaner and it would have to still be in liquid form to be any concern due to welding (burning).It's kinda like saying I can't weld on my metal bench 'cause I wiped it down with gasoline earlier today and if I do it'll explode.  Ain't happening.
Reply:I have a set of Omega drills http://omegadrill.com/ for removing really hard items like taps. It will make quick work of the easyout.Throw away the easyouts. They are a waste of time. Easyouts come in two flavors. Straight and spiral. They are not generally will suited to rusted or corroded bolts. They are designed to remove bolt fragments that have some movement or have been freed by heat and penetrating oil. The spiral version like you find at the hardware store are terribly brittle (as you discovered). In addition as it winds into the part it's actually expanding the bolt and increasing pressure on the already stuck threads... making it tighter.  Basic rule if you can't get it to turn slightly in the hole... the spiral will not likely work. Same goes for left handed drills. If it moves you might get lucky. Rusted in... not likely. Straight easy outs work better and are often less brittle. A quality straight easyout may work... if any easyout will work.Tig is my preferred method. It really concentrates the heat on the bolt and get great expansion which helps break it free. I normally build up a nub and then weld a nut onto it. I then spray it with some penetrating oil while it's hot. The bolt normally come right out.They also make some rods specific for the task. I've been thinking of buying a few to have on hand. In another thread someone mentioned getting a bolt a couple inches deep with one.[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4zohssWS7I[/ame]
Reply:Yup, as others have said, weld a nut on it.  One of my favorite Milwaukee angle grinders had the handle snap off.  The threaded "bolt" of the handle, broke inside the aluminum housing "female" part of the the handle attachement.  I didn't think it would work, but I MIG welded (real quick like) a steel nut to the broken steel shaft within the aluminum housing.  It was a really quick MIG tack weld within the nut that it didn't damage the aluminum housing of the angle grinder at all.  Worked like a champ!  Got the broken shaft out with ease.  EZ-Outs are a joke unfortunately.  They are for people that don't have MIG welders.  Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:EZ-Outs have their place as well as left hand drill bits. You've gotta keep a lot of "tools"in the old tool box for whatever comes your way.Millermatic 200Hobart Handler 120Victor O/A & Ramco BandsawLincoln 225 ACSnapOn AD HoodMiller XMT304/22AHypertherm Powermax 1650 G3Lincoln Idealarc DC600 w/Extreme 12 VSMiller Digital Elite "Joker"
Reply:Originally Posted by RaptorDunerEZ-Outs have their place as well as left hand drill bits. You've gotta keep a lot of "tools"in the old tool box for whatever comes your way.
Reply:I can't say i've ever had any good luck with the spiral ez outs,  I havn't broken but a few, but they just don't grip well it seems.  I have had a lot better luck with the tapered square cut ones.  Especially in fuel or air fittings that have been broken off somehow.  With bolts, my preffered method is to weld a nut or washer and nut onto the broken bolt, spray with some kind of lubricant while still hot (I use Marvel Mystery Oil for a LOT of stuff), then remove the bolt.  If it's large enough, I prefer to use an impact, it seems to extract the bolt rather than twisting the nut off usually.If at the shop, I've usually used the mig to weld the nut on.  On the jobsite, I've used 6010, 7010 and 7018.  I'm new to the world of TIG, and havn't had to remove any broken bolts since I got my TIG.  But next one in the shop it will get tried.  I have fallen in love with the amount of control I have with the TIG.  I should have bought one YEARS ago.On larger bolts that are broken off, I've had to weld a nut on them, let them cool some, beat on them, re-heat with a rosebud... Several cycles of that. We had a 225 Cat trackhoe that most of the bolts holding the track frames to the lower carbody broke one time.  That's when I learned this method.  I don't remember what size bolts these were, but they were over an inch.  (Its been about 25 years).  We removed all the bolts, put new ones in, then I welded the joints solid.  Never had any more trouble out of it...
Reply:Take a BIG nut, say 5/8 or 3/4 for a 3/8" stud.  Center it the best you can, take a mig and start filling the hole. Concentrate the wire to the hole center first, then fill the hole. don't worry, you won't melt  the base material, even if it's aluminum. It may break, but keep doing it.  Remember it shrinks each time it heats and cools.  Eventually it comes out.  In the rare event that you do damge the parent material, just helicoil or retap it.  A little PB Blaster helpsas well.
Reply:I'll give the welding a nut to the broken bolt the x+1.  Usually a part makes it to my bench it the bolt has been broken, drilled sideways, off centered with an easy out busted off in it.  I work in an automotive machine shop so I end up with parts after the mechanic, their buddy and usually another person have worked on a part, usually a cylinder head and exhaust manifold bolts.  If the bolt is bigger than 1/4" I like to center drill it to 1/8" or smaller then TIG weld a nut onto it with stainless filler, hit it with some penetrating oil and start to wiggle on it, sometimes it takes 2 or 3 tries.  When there is a busted off easy out, weld a nut and continue.I just make sure to mark the exact center of the broken stud with a fine point Sharpie, then center punch the mark.  Drill a small pilot hole all the way through, then progressively larger bits until I get to the size bit that my taps say to use for that size hole.  Usually the threads just pull right out. Then run a tap in lightly to smooth the threads. EZ outs are an invitation to disaster and frustration.  I usually use cobalt drill bits if the original bolt was hardened.Miller Syncrowave 350Millermatic 252/ 30A spoolgunMiller Bobcat 225g w/ 3545 spoolgunLincoln PowerArc4000Lincoln 175 Mig  Lincoln 135 Mig Everlast 250EX TigCentury ac/dc 230 amp stickVictor O/AHypertherm 1000 plasma
Reply:I always use TIG first chance I get because it always works and takes the same amount of time to do as all the less relieable methods.  If the machine is alread hooked up we are talking seconds of welding time and a few minutes to set everything up, find the hood, close the doors and clear a work area.Once a friend and I wasted 90 minutes over a few tries trying to remove a stuck bearing cup.  The part was special order but only five dollars and I later said screw it.  There was just enough room to run a bead inside the bearing cup and ten minutes later when it was cool it came out by hand and ordered a new one.  Sometimes the best solution is the easiest one!
Reply:Like I said in my previous post, I weld a nut on, but I am suprised a plasma worked.  Usually an OA torch will wash away only the preheated piece without harming the second one, where a plasma semms to cut where ever it is aimed.
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Nice method.However, due to the heat, any remnents of a brake cleaner would be gone by the time one got set up to weld a nut on.  Besides, it would have to be a can of chlorinated (not so popular anymore) cleaner and it would have to still be in liquid form to be any concern due to welding (burning).It's kinda like saying I can't weld on my metal bench 'cause I wiped it down with gasoline earlier today and if I do it'll explode.  Ain't happening.
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Nice method.However, due to the heat, any remnents of a brake cleaner would be gone by the time one got set up to weld a nut on.  Besides, it would have to be a can of chlorinated (not so popular anymore) cleaner and it would have to still be in liquid form to be any concern due to welding (burning).It's kinda like saying I can't weld on my metal bench 'cause I wiped it down with gasoline earlier today and if I do it'll explode.  Ain't happening.