Can this be fixed?

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I'll post up some pictures later when I get home if needed, but it's fairly easy to explain.When I built my small welding table (roughly 18x30 top)  I used 1/8" sheet metal for the top. Being the rookie I was at the time, (well I still am a rookie but now know better than to pull this little stunt again) I had this brilliant idea that after I tacked the the top to the frame, that it would be a good time to practice some welding. So my dumbazz proceeded to weld pretty much the whole edge of the table to the frame all the way around. I had a grand ole time burning me some wire! Well as you can imagine this warped the top downwards in the center. Think bowl shaped but not nearly that drastic. maybe a 1/4-1/2" or so at the deepest point in the center. Is there anyway to straighten this out? I do know I'll never get it FLAT, but was maybe hoping to raise it up somewhat to the level of the frame it sits on, or at least take some bow out of it. Any ideas? Would I be better off cutting the whole thing off the legs and starting over? Tack weld another piece of 1/8" sheet on top of the bowed one? Maybe heat it up and beat it with a hammer? Give myself a swift kick in the nuts to learn me a lesson? Thanks
Reply:Piece of cake! Do either one or the other of these drawings. I would use the small circles first. Now make sure you do this on the bottom side of your table! Sorry these were drawings for another problem. But it will still work for you. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Does the table top extend beyond the frame for clamping ??  Might be better to get a piece of 1/4'' for the top and set on top of existing. Lay a straight edge on existing to determine how thick of shims will be required to have new top flat.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPPiece of cake! Do either one or the other of these drawings. I would use the small circles first. Now make sure you do this on the bottom side of your table! Sorry these were drawings for another problem. But it will still work for you.
Reply:Originally Posted by BD1Does the table top extend beyond the frame for clamping ??  Might be better to get a piece of 1/4'' for the top and set on top of existing. Lay a straight edge on existing to determine how thick of shims will be required to have new top flat.
Reply:Originally Posted by thebuckIs it safe to assume those heat lines are welds?
Reply:Originally Posted by thebuckIs it safe to assume those heat lines are welds?
Reply:Here is a 1/2-inch thick plate I brought back into shape after welding a pipe on the other side. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:I dont have a torch. Would MAPP gas with a pencil flame work?
Reply:Originally Posted by thebuckI dont have a torch. Would MAPP gas with a pencil flame work?
Reply:Maybe I'll try the MAPP first, and if that doesnt work, then use the welder. If I remember right, I got the end of a piece of 1/8 angle glowing red a little bit when I first got the MAPP.
Reply:Thanks for the tips CEP, I'll report back with results tomorrow.
Reply:1/8-inch thick, boy you'd think a BIC lighter would do it! http://www.biclighter.com/Home.aspxDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by thebuckThanks for the tips CEP, I'll report back with results tomorrow.
Reply:I got a box of sparklers....maybe that'll do!
Reply:I think the biggest beam I ever straightened was a 36” x 300#, now that's where a # 12 rose bud seems too small! Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPThe theory to all this is very simple, the trick is how much heat to use.
Reply:Originally Posted by thebuckNot that I doubt your advice, but dare I ask how the heat lifts the bow out of it? When it cools, the metal contracts and pulls it tight again or something?
Reply:So by using the water in certain areas, I can sort of pick which direction to "pull" the metal? And when I first started this mess and welded around the edges, the center cooled first which pulled the metal inwards and created the sag? Do i have that right?Sorry guys, I'm new to working with metal. Got any fiberglass or boat questions? I can help there lol!
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammeressentially. THe side that cools quickest contracts faster pulling the metal that direction.
Reply:Originally Posted by thebuckSo by using the water in certain areas, I can sort of pick which direction to "pull" the metal? And when I first started this mess and welded around the edges, the center cooled first which pulled the metal inwards and created the sag? Do i have that right?Sorry guys, I'm new to working with metal. Got any fiberglass or boat questions? I can help there lol!
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPBingo! You get a gold star.
Reply:Alright guys it worked! My MAPP gas torch could only heat a half dollar size red glow at a time so it didnt work too well. So then I just started running beads on the bottom of the plate with the welder, and then misting the other side with water. It pulled most of the sag out of it. Need to do it a little more on one side and I think it will be good to go! Yall are awesome! Thanks again!!
Reply:Originally Posted by thebuckAlright guys it worked! My MAPP gas torch could only heat a half dollar size red glow at a time so it didnt work too well. So then I just started running beads on the bottom of the plate with the welder, and then misting the other side with water. It pulled most of the sag out of it. Need to do it a little more on one side and I think it will be good to go! Yall are awesome! Thanks again!!
Reply:Originally Posted by thebuckSo then I just started running beads on the bottom of the plate with the welder, and then misting the other side with water.Originally Posted by CEPNO!!!!!! You want to cool the same side as the heat was used on!
Reply:you're going to have more concentrated heat on the side that you're heating so if you cool that side you'll get more movement than you would if you cooled the opposite side first. Just heat from the top now, and spray the top.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammerJust heat from the top now, and spray the top.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPWHAT?! That will bow it down.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPWHAT?! That will bow it down.
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammersorry, it was early (no caffine yet). BOTH from the bottom. not the top.
Reply:simple way to think about it. If you want to straighten out an arch, heat and spray the long side of the arch.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Check this out on heating. Very interesting.http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/bridge/steel/02.cfm