Welding table questions

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Hi everyone, I just joined here and I'm looking to build a welding table. How thick of material should I make the top out of? I'm guessing it will be about 3' by 5' in size. I race sprint karts so it would be nice to be able to put my frame up on it if I need to weld it. I called our local steel dealer and got some quotes. Is this the best place to buy a steel plate? Thanks !
Reply:Make it as thick as you can afford. But, as you weld up the table, check your surface as you go if you're looking to make a reference table. Thinner material with underbracing can get all out of shape and it might just be better to have some 1/2" or better to start with.Make sure you check out the scrap yards before you plunk down for new. But, take a straight edge.Oh, and welcome. I guess I can say that now that I've reached 100 posts. __________________
Reply:Lots and lots of tables and ideas for tables discussed on this forum.  If you read some of the old posts I am sure you will find some ideas and suggestions you will like.My first table had a 1/8" top, definitely not flat but sure was a step up from welding on the floor. "The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25
Reply:Originally Posted by zekeMake it as thick as you can afford. But, as you weld up the table, check your surface as you go if you're looking to make a reference table. Thinner material with underbracing can get all out of shape and it might just be better to have some 1/2" or better to start with.Make sure you check out the scrap yards before you plunk down for new. But, take a straight edge.Oh, and welcome. I guess I can say that now that I've reached 100 posts.
Reply:If you plan on moving the table around your garage or shop, make sure to invest in a strongAnd heavy duty set of casters. You should have an appx weight of the finished table, and make sure the wheel set can handle the load. In this case, I might buy "more" than I actually need. Good luck!Ain't No Body Got Time For That!Millermatic 211 MVPLincoln 135Strong Desire To Learn!
Reply:I am going to build a couple of tables for school. I spent a bunch of time reading posts on tables. Here are some of the best links for me.High School http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...+welding+tablehttp://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...=welding+table (trailer hitch Acces)Holes and clamps http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=67821Hitch Accessories http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=108281Skateboard Wheels http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=62615Slots, wheels and feet http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...=welding+table (good feet)Miller table http://www.millerwelds.com/interests...welding-table/Mag Drill http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...=welding+tableadjustable small http://www.cojeeps.net/showthread.ph...plans-and-picshttp://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...le-detail.aspx
Reply:as others have said, the thicker the better.  However, in my opinion, If you get it thick enough you can pound on it to your hearts content.  I've seen tables with 4" thick tops and no amount or manual pounding on that top is going do anything detrimental to it.  But 4" tops are a rarity (if not non-existant) in home/small shop environments.   With thinner plate I wouldn't even consider heating it up a good idea if you want to keep it flat little lone pounding on it.My first table had a 3/16" thick top.  Way, way, way better than the welding on the ground.  But not good enough for welding fixtures to, pounding on, heating it up (when heating parts placed on it with an OA torch or OA brazing/welding), etc if you wanted to keep it flat.  But at the time that was all I could afford and worked good enough.   Read the forum posts about tables, think about it, and then build what you can afford and then ungrade when you need to and can afford it.  As you gain more experience and get some time under your belt you'll come to your own conclusions about what kinda table you'll want next.
Reply:Here's a thought I'll share since I doubt a patent would make me millions. When I move to Kentucky this summer my new place will have a big shop, that's a prerequisite, so I'll be building another table. I like many others have ruined a nice, true 1/4" table by banging on it. My plans for my next table is to have a split table top, 2/3s of it will be 1/4" which is suitable for fabbing larger lighter things much like your go cart frames and fairly affordable. The other 1/3 will be 3/4" for the heavy work with my bench vise/anvil mounted over a leg. While this idea makes the frame a little more complex with a 1/2" step, I think it'll work by leaving the two surfaces flush and unjoined to eachother, with each only joined to the frame.Anybody tried this? If not, feel free to run with it and let me know how it works. Preferably before June.
Reply:Ya I need to be able to pound on it. I like the idea of have a two step table .
Reply:My table is 3/8 and is warped go thicker.Dave ReberWadsworth Ohio
Reply:Bigger caster wheels roll much nicer over rough or dirty surfaces. The shop table is 4' x 4' with rounded corners 3/8" top over a 3/8" backer sheet under it. its not perfectly flat (roughly 1/8" variance) but its beaten on and while it was without casters it has supported over 3000+lbs on it there is a roughly 4" overhang that lets you use C clamps and vice grips easily
Reply:Originally Posted by REDONEHere's a thought I'll share since I doubt a patent would make me millions. When I move to Kentucky this summer my new place will have a big shop, that's a prerequisite, so I'll be building another table. I like many others have ruined a nice, true 1/4" table by banging on it. My plans for my next table is to have a split table top, 2/3s of it will be 1/4" which is suitable for fabbing larger lighter things much like your go cart frames and fairly affordable. The other 1/3 will be 3/4" for the heavy work with my bench vise/anvil mounted over a leg. While this idea makes the frame a little more complex with a 1/2" step, I think it'll work by leaving the two surfaces flush and unjoined to eachother, with each only joined to the frame.Anybody tried this? If not, feel free to run with it and let me know how it works. Preferably before June.
Reply:Thought I'd add a couple pictures of the table i mentioned above
Reply:Originally Posted by KartRacer10Hi everyone, I just joined here and I'm looking to build a welding table. How thick of material should I make the top out of? I'm guessing it will be about 3' by 5' in size. I race sprint karts so it would be nice to be able to put my frame up on it if I need to weld it. I called our local steel dealer and got some quotes. Is this the best place to buy a steel plate? Thanks !