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I welded in some bushings today. See what you think. As always, I have a lot of improving to do, but the slag was peeling itself off, and I always take that as a sign that I'm doing something right.Here's one thing that I would like some advice on dealing with. In order to allow correct positioning of the bushings, I drilled the holes 1/8" bigger than the bushings' OD. I needed exact spacing between the bushings and the original holes that I drilled were just ever so slightly off. Unfortunately, the next size up hole saw from 1 1/2" was 1 5/8". Anyway, what this meant was that there was perhaps as much as 3/32" of gap between the bushing and the plate at any given point around its circumference. I welded up one side of the plate and then turned it over to weld the other side. Because I did the welds in sections, some slag had dripped down into the gap at the end of the weld, and was now down in there. I did my best to scrape it out with the tip of a file, but I was thinking that I'm sure there is a better way to handle this that keeps the slag out of there in the first place.Welds were done using 1/8" E7018 at about 110-120 amps DCEP. The plate is 3/8" and the bushings are 1/4". Attached Images
Reply:try usiung 6010 for filling gaps..
Reply:The problem with welding in bushings in the "middle" is that in some cases the bushing actually collapses in the middle because of the heat and now it's too small..Then it's reamer time....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I agree with MR Zapp. Everytime I welded in a bush that has a close tolarece it srinks the center. I started making the bushings smaler then weld them up and then bore them out. Oh and nice looking welds.
Reply:Thankfully, these bushings still seem to work after being welded in. Maybe they have enough tolerance to take it? I dunno. As for the reamer: if I had a reamer, I wouldn't have had to buy these bushings! Dangit!I did my best to scrape it out with the tip of a file, but I was thinking that I'm sure there is a better way to handle this that keeps the slag out of there in the first place.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadtry usiung 6010 for filling gaps..
Reply:Originally Posted by joshuabardwellThis is good advice, except that my 6010/6011 welds are so bad. I need a lot more practice with those rods, but every time I have work to do, I pull out 7018 because it gets me the best results. This is why I'm just a hack instead of a Real Welder.
Reply:Great job! I presume you spun that hole saw in a drill press so I will assume you have the drill press. For better accuracy in the future loosen the wallet and spring for an annular cutter. The initial investment is frightful at about 80 bucks for a holder plus the cutters but individual cutters are then 20 to 60 depending on size. They will make hundreds of holes without getting dull, and they will make those holes with dead-on accuracy. You won't need the clearance for alignment and can fit the bushings in snug. Any shrinkage or distortion of the inside bore caused by welding can probably be cleared with a common brake cylinder hone chucked in an electric hand drill.Of course if this is for a Saturn V rocket or something similar you will need even more accuracy and should consult the engineers at Thiokol Corporation for advice. - MondoMember, AWSLincoln ProMIG 140Lincoln AC TombstoneCraftsman Lathe 12 x 24 c1935Atlas MFC Horizontal MillCraftsman Commercial Lathe 12 x 36 c1970- - - I'll just keep on keepin' on.
Reply:Originally Posted by MondoI presume you spun that hole saw in a drill press so I will assume you have the drill press. For better accuracy in the future loosen the wallet and spring for an annular cutter. |
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