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Another broken snowplow

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发表于 2021-8-31 23:06:17 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Had a rather light 5-inch snow the other day, no big deal.  used the plow to clean out a friend's place, then came home and started in on our's.noticed on the way home that the alternator in the truck wasn't working right, but figgured i could at least get our place mostly done. so, i need a new alternator, i thought that was the bad news.did my usual walk around and noticed the plow was all effed up!!!!  i have no idea how it broke this bad!  believe it or not, i'm really easy on it.  so anyway ... my father-in-law came down and helped me take the plow off and horse it around so that i could get to fixin' on it.here's where i started:  the curved piece broke all the way through. and the vertical support broke the weld.  quite sure the two are related, just not sure how as there is no load in this spot.  thinking it has something to do with the moment load on the angle mid-span between the plow mounts on either side.ground it out as deep as i could.here it is from above:did a root pass with 6011 and capped it with two passes of 7014.i still have problems ending the puddle.now to tackle the curved piece that broke right beneath:ground it out as deep as i could.
Reply:did a root pass with 6011 again.not my strong suit but i'm getting better with it using circular motions:then capped it with two passes of 7014:i hope it holds.  i couldn't get at it from the top to do a full weld.  but i can hang my head high and say i've done the best i can with it, anyway.when i pulled the plow off, i found this:didn't know what to do with it, really.  It is a big c-channel that holds the hydraulic rams that turn the plow.  a pin goes through both sides of the channel and the end of the ram.
Reply:i'm not proud of this.turned out like crap!did a sort of vertical weld with 6011, then did a crappy downhill pass over that to weld the channel back together.  then i added the vertical strut and welded that in with 7014.was getting tired and had troubles with the welder moving my amp setting without being asked.  after doing it twice ... i left it the way it is above.then i found these:what the heck do i do with these!?!?!i can grind on it a bit, but not all the way up to the edge.these are going to be a problem forever, i think.  when the plow trips and slams back into the stops, this is where all the energy goes ....ideas, anyone?
Reply:Looks like you have alot of grinding to do..better get started on it Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:That's where a carbon arc comes in real handy! Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:If you have a plasma cutter put it on the lowest setting a cut away on/of the welds.
Reply:carbon rod in your electrode holder in one handair blowgun in the other to blow away the slag
Reply:Originally Posted by joelaycheckcarbon rod in your electrode holder in one handair blowgun in the other to blow away the slag
Reply:I've repaired a lot of them from tandem plows (I work for NSDOT) unfortunately  unless you reinforce the area it's going to break again, thru no fault of yours.Best luck I've had is cutting a crescent shaped piece of 3/8" plate and tying it into both right and left gussett and welding to the top leg of the angle. If you can tie it in to the angle behind the moldboard (just behind the trip pivot)  on either side it'd be even better You're going to have to relocate your trip spring mount but that's no big deal, you can weld a lug on top of the reinforcement piece......Mike
Reply:Originally Posted by mrmikeyI've repaired a lot of them from tandem plows (I work for NSDOT) unfortunately  unless you reinforce the area it's going to break again, thru no fault of yours.Best luck I've had is cutting a crescent shaped piece of 3/8" plate and tying it into both right and left gussett and welding to the top leg of the angle. If you can tie it in to the angle behind the moldboard (just behind the trip pivot)  on either side it'd be even better You're going to have to relocate your trip spring mount but that's no big deal, you can weld a lug on top of the reinforcement piece......Mike
Reply:Being retired is nice.  The blower is parked outside the barn and I'm inside by the fire.Hope the damn thing rusts away.
Reply:Originally Posted by joelaycheckcarbon rod in your electrode holder in one handair blowgun in the other to blow away the slag
Reply:Despite my SA comment above, I believe I'd gouge out the crap weld with a plasma torch and reweld it.  Some of those welds look like pigeon poop,
Reply:Sketch attached.Try to fill your craters in a bit better :-) ......Mike Attached Images
Reply:thanks mike!  I think i have enough scrap to get started on the gussets and plates for the curved angle.  After thinking about it here last night in my sleep (am i the only one that does that?) i was thinking i should probably plate the bottom of that curved angle.  there must be one heck of a shear load in that location.making that crescent shaped piece will be my largest challenge.  if i can find a piece of scrap that big, our shop guy will help me cut it out with the plasma, or i can go to my wife's uncle's house and use his (he farms, so he's got everything).  but finding a piece that big is going to be tough.regarding the broken welds on the angle reinforcement for the slam stops .... i'm leaning heavily toward R&R.  just not sure how to do it.  my wife's uncle would help, but i'd have to haul it up there as the truck is not licensed or roadworthy.i think i could cut it out with 6011 set on "kill", but i've still got the problem of trying to clean up the corners.....  not sure what to do.  might be worth loading it up and getting some help cutting it out of there.  at least with a plasma, i'd have a decent chance at not effing it up so bad that i can't fix it.maybe i'll find some welded scraps laying around and see just how dangerous cutting with 6011 really is.just a bit at a loss with those broken welds.  i know i can just go over them with the 6011, but it looks like someone has already done that a couple times, so i don't think it is a very good solution -- but it might kick the ball down the road a bit .... dunno
Reply:Welcome to the wonderful world of snow plow repairs! FYI no matter what you do, somehow, some when, it WILL get Faulked up again.... It just might happen some where else instead.Damage looks fairly typical to blades like that. I've fixed several like that over the years.  The big 12' Vaulk blade on the Mac has almost the same damage in the same places. BTW the ring on that one is out of 5/8" thick angle iron .....No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Ain't it the truth, that's how I got into welding, bought an old beat up '97 f-350 with an even older Meyer motor driven hydraulic plow.  Have to weld on it at least once a season. Originally Posted by DSWWelcome to the wonderful world of snow plow repairs! FYI no matter what you do, somehow, some when, it WILL get Faulked up again.... It just might happen some where else instead.Damage looks fairly typical to blades like that. I've fixed several like that over the years.  The big 12' Vaulk blade on the Mac has almost the same damage in the same places. BTW the ring on that one is out of 5/8" thick angle iron ....
Reply:Scarfing tip on an OA rig will take those buggered up welds out nicely.--Wintermute"No man's knowledge here can go beyond his experience." - John Lockewww.improvised-engineering.comManufacturer Agnostic:Blood----------Sweat---------Tears----|------------------|----------------|----Lincoln Red, Miller Blue, Esab Yellow
Reply:i'd be happy with once a season at this point i'm optimistic that once i get it back on after this round of repairs i can be done fixin' on it for the season.i had hoped to get a shock absorbed fabbed up and installed this summer. i think that would go a long way toward reducing broken welds. i HATE when it trips and rebounds so violently. but i didn't get it done ... or anything else, for that matter ... had a baby instead ... good trade if you ask me i'm wondering if a box section wouldn't be better in place of that vertical strut from the mouldboard (?) to the  curved angle behind it.  that would spread the shear force out more, possibly reducing fractures in that area.  doesn't matter, i guess, cauz i'm not gonna do it colder than crap out today .... time is better spent shopping for parts than welding, IMHO.Last edited by Meborder; 12-31-2012 at 12:14 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by Meborderi'm not proud of this.turned out like crap!
Reply:Originally Posted by wintermuteScarfing tip on an OA rig will take those buggered up welds out nicely.--Wintermute
Reply:No OA ... no plasma ... just an AC buzz box, a grinder (RIP) ... and now a carbide tip for my die grinder.So ... truth in advertising ... this is how we learn....i got a couple 5 inch cut off wheels for my grinder and went to town. after making a little bit of room by cutting off the ear of the slam-stop, this is what i had left that i could not get with the grinder.so i thought i could just blow that little corner a way with 6011 with the welder set to kill.after sticking the second 3/32" rod to the glob i created, it looked like this:no go ..so i grabbed the 1/8" and set the welder at 230 amps.  ended up with this:what a FARKING MESS!wont ever try that again.  must be an acquired skill to blow holes in stuff.  all it did was turn the rod red hot and make the ugliest weld ever ... but it couldnt blow through the little bit that was left. ... what a joke.
Reply:So i cleaned up my mess a little bit and left it like this until i can go at it with something else:then i jumped over to the other side and started in on that ... was going well.but this is where my grinder gave up the ghost.it is almost all the way through the weld on from the top, but i just couldn't get it through, so i was horsing on it .... shoulda quit when i smelled burning epoxy .... dead grinder ....i might try the die grinder tomorrow with the $40 carbide (ouch!) ... see if i can eff that up to.
Reply:Originally Posted by Meborderhad a baby instead ... good trade if you ask me
Reply:so it looks like it has been about a month ... felt like it too.  so i finally got it "done" here tonight.  I'll apologize up front for the poor pics.  i was welding in the dark, freezing drizzle, and standing in a puddle ...  but i needed it done pending snow, and i wanted the pics to share and to help learn.having some trouble uploading pics here tonight too, so we'll see how this goes.i was able to finally get all the bird poop ground out on the ends of the push frame.  found out why they cracked.  there was about a 1/16" gap between the two pieces on the left side (driver's) and about a 1/8" gap on the right side (pass).  So i ground it out deep on the left side, did a root pass with 6011 and two cap passes with 7014.  left side turned out pretty good.(sorry it's fuzzy, its the only pic i got)on the right side i decided to bridge the gap by plating it with some 3/8 strap i have laying around.  I'm not sure what it is about this strap, but i think i'm just going to stop using it. it just welds like poop.  While trying to get it to weld on the same setting i used on the other side, it was like the puddle just never formed.  so i blew some bird poop on it ... then thought better of it and ground it out and redid it.  seems like it welds pretty good on the second pass for some reason, but i did turn it down from 140a to about 125a ... but that was too cold and wouldn't tie in, so i split the difference. the lower setting helped a bit, but it just seemed like there was no setting that worked well, either too cold or too hot. i guess that's why you guys get to charge for your work i'm quitting here with this piece of the puzzle.  it rained last night and most of the day today so that's why it's rusty.As per MrMike's suggestion, i plated the bottom angle of the push frame directly under the spring mounts.  this sucked monkey's butt.  i couldn't get the rod in there so what i ended up with is anybody's guess.  on the bright side, i'm no worse off than doing nothing.  I tried to weld around the corners too, but i know i got some slag inclusion as i was fighting a downhill weld and my own skill level.  this was done with 7014 @130ish amps, but looking back i would have been better off with 6011.truth in advertising .... it is what it is.next post:here's the other side bottom plate .... neither side is better than the other, i'm consistent if nothing else.you can see the bottom side of the gusset as well.  i did what i could to weld it on both sides. i think this one got the 6011.  had the same downhill problem with 7014, so i tried the 6011 and it seemed to work better.here's the top side of the right gusset (pass side) ... welds look too cold in the pic.  was hard to tell in the dark and i had to weld it from about 4 foot away .. that or kneel down in a puddle.these mods were made as per MrMike's suggestion.  the backup gusset on the spring mount will really help.  this is just a TERRIBLE design.  offsetting the spring mount from the strut like that is just ASKING for trouble.  what you have here gentlemen is known as a "shear problem" i'd suggest to anyone either putting in gussets like MrMike suggests, or alternatively, you could move the spring mount such that it lines up with the strut.  either one solves the shear issue.here's the left strut gusset from the top.  again it looks too cold, but like i said, the angle sucked and this strap just welded poorly for me.next post:
Reply:so i had a bunch stuff typed out and lost it all.so here's the short version.i found a crack on the pass side spring mountground it down to the bird poop holding it up and dried it out with a propane torch:set the 6011 on "kill" - 125a:ground both toes and both ends with the carbide and hit it again with the 6011:and quit here:that's it for now ... it's back on the truck and as soon as i get new spring screws it'll be ready for me to break again.  i do hope it lasts more than once, though.as usual, i'm open to comments on any glaring errors or omissions:thanks to everyone for the support and advice!mike
Reply:Originally Posted by Meborder  i was welding in the dark, freezing drizzle, and standing in a puddle ...  but i needed it done pending snow,
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