Ideas for adjustable shelf heights on project

admin

I am in the process of building a small shelf unit for my shed/shop. I'm using 1/8x1x1 angle for the shelf frames and 1/8x1-1/4x1-1/4 for the legs. Still undecided on putting plywood or expanded metal in the shelf framesAnyway aside from the very top and the very bottom, I dont want to weld the middle shelves in because as soon as I do, they will invariably be the wrong height for the assorted stuff I want to put on them which I'm sure will change over time.So I'm thinking of drilling holes maybe every 6" or 12" along the vertical legs. Then using short bolts and locknuts for stops that the shelves will sit on. That seems like an awful lot of holes to drill though and maybe there is a better option that I cant or havent thought of yet. Maybe just drill em where I want em now and If I want to move them in the future, burn that bridge when I get there? . Any other ideas? A few picsI have better luck coping the angle with my grinder than doing 45 degree miters on my chop saw. Not sure what I did wrong here. It seemed to penetrate good but its ugly looking. Maybe I was moving too slow?And this is where I'm at now. Got to weld up 2 more shelves and then figure out how I'm going to mount them that wont be permanent. Thanks for any input Last edited by thebuck; 01-29-2013 at 03:46 PM.
Reply:With the center not having a permanent shelf, I would suggest X bracing on the back and sides to reduce any tendency to twist or tilt.
Reply:x2 on the cross bracing.as for the moveable shelves? you're going to want more options than every 6" so I'd just stick with where you want them now and drill later if you need too.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:I like to use regular adjustable double hole shelf standards for shop shelves. They aren't cheap, but they give you a lot of flexibility as far as where shelves end up going and they will take a lot of load. Not sure they'd be the right choice for a shelf like that, but it's an option to think about. On free standing wood shelves, I use the thinner double tracks with the small shelf clips like are often found in kitchen cabinets. With a span that large You want at least 1 if not 2 center rails across the back as well as a front stiffener on the shelf itself. These aren't as expensive, but because the standards are so thin, you need to make sure they are attached frequently. You should be able to simply hit either type with a grinder or sander to knock off the paint and then tack them in place to the uprights..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Yes I forgot to add I will be cross bracing the rear and sides. She was twisting a little when i was moving it around.I'm not sure I'm following you DSW. I was planning on making the shelves frame out of 1/8x1x1 angle. Basically big rectangles with a center brace that fit inside the main frame in the pic above. Then lay the plywood or expanded metal inside the L created by the angle on the shelves. Wouldnt that be plenty strong?
Reply:For what it's worth the overall size is 4ft wide, 5ft tall, and 2ft deep.
Reply:You could use unistrut/superstrut.
Reply:you've already started but this is what i did. Trumpf punch press and pressbrake made the holes in the endcaps (made from .125" hot roll smooth plate) . shelves are also .125 HR & made with the punch press for the holes, perimeter trim and notches. The press brake broke the edges.  the holes in the shelves are alittle larger than the end caps but they line up right on the $$. The top and backside are clad with 14ga smooth sheetmetal.
Reply:Hey that's a nice looking shelf Jimmy pop.  Can we get some detail shots of the feet?
Reply:Do you have the polarity set right for your welder and Flux core? I made that mistake in high school about 10 years ago for about 2 years as a hobbyist. More heat or less wire speed. Equipment in your signature will help out.. Also have you tried cutting wheels in the grinder?14' PowerMig 210 MP13'Burntables 5x10 CNC Table14' SAE300 HE on a 12' Ram 4500 60 CA 4x4. Custom bed/bottles/reels.87' SA250d, 78 SA200,11' Ranger 250 GXT AC/DCThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 8112' Lincoln Precision Tig 22508' LN25
Reply:It's just a HF 90amp mig. I've got some ok welds out of it before, but I'm still a beginner so knows what I may have done wrong. As for the grinder, yes, I was using cut-off wheels. It's a 4-1/2 angle grinder.