adjustable aluminum table

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A buddy of mine wanted me to build him an adjustable table out of aluminum. I threw around some ideas and came up with this. I took 1 1/2" x 1" angle and made a box for a piece of wood to sit in. The table measures 24" wide and will have a max height of 48" with the lowest height being 36". So it will have 12" height travel. To adjust the height my friend bought 2 linear actuators that I will install in the center on each post. Somehow I need to figure out how to run both on the same switch but will get to that later.So far I have finished the frame for the table top and I'm still working on the legs and bracing for the base. I will keep updating as I go.Thanks for looking!  I guess I should also mention that the tubing is 2x2" and there will be 1 3/4" tubing that will side into the 4 corner posts. Attached ImagesLast edited by tig_21; 12-27-2012 at 09:28 PM.Miller Dynasty 200Millermatic 211Instagram?.... find me @ WELD_MEDIC
Reply:Nice beads. The leg lengths are very uniform
Reply:Originally Posted by jamesyarbroughNice beads. The leg lengths are very uniform
Reply:Nice looking welds...I am going to be interested in seeing how your adjustment mechanism is designed and see how well it works.KevKevin / Machine_Punk from The Aerodrome Studio - Lincoln PowerMIG 210 MP - Meco N Midget w/custom welding station - Vintage Victor 100Current Projects: The Aerodrome Studio
Reply:Good looking beads, but they look a little cold. I understand it is a table though, so no harm. Crown is a little tall though. Nice job.14' PowerMig 210 MP13'Burntables 5x10 CNC Table14' SAE300 HE on a 12' Ram 4500 60 CA 4x4. Custom bed/bottles/reels.87' SA250d, 78 SA200,11' Ranger 250 GXT AC/DCThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 8112' Lincoln Precision Tig 22508' LN25
Reply:^^^ Yeah they do look cold but that's because i'm using 3/32" rod. I think they wouldn't look as cold if I was using smaller rod. I have my amps set at 180 though so i know the penetration is ok but it's hard to really get good heat to the material due to the fact that there's only a 2" weld joint. The butt joints are all sanded down smooth in the end.I will work on the welds though I'm still learningMachine Punk:I am very interested in seeing how these linear actuators will work as well. I just hope that I can position them perfect so that the tubing doesn't bind when moving up or down. We'll see soon I guess. Thanks for looking!Miller Dynasty 200Millermatic 211Instagram?.... find me @ WELD_MEDIC
Reply:To me the reason the weld looks cold is not because the bead profile is high, but because the toes of the weld don't seem to wash into the base meterial, like it does at the start of the weld in the last picture, also the weird dimple where each dime overlaps the previous one at it's edge.The weld should be shinier, and ideally with a smaller etched zone regardless of what filler size you use. Are you traveling too slow and not using enough current? Also try turning your "cleaning" down (more electrode negative) if your machine allows you to adjust the wave ballance.It looks like you're got the mechanics down since your welds are straight and consistantly stacked. You could be making some seriously good looking welds with a little fine tuning.Last edited by MikeGyver; 12-29-2012 at 07:49 PM.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:That is some nice work!! As you said you are still learning and the only way to get better is practice and more practice..Thats what I keep telling myself anywayThanks for sharing keep us posted!!Miller 250DX HTP 221 DV AC/DCHenrob O-A Miller 180 MigMiller 150 Inverter   Hobart 10,000 Welder-Generator   Have a good day!!!
Reply:Thanks for the info mikegyver. I will work on that see If I can't get the weld puddle to expand to both sides of the material more. I definitely don't want it to break so I think you have a good point so I will keep practicing and post some more pics when I get there.Thanks for the positive comments everyone I appreciate it.JoshMiller Dynasty 200Millermatic 211Instagram?.... find me @ WELD_MEDIC
Reply:Originally Posted by tig_21Thanks for the info mikegyver. I will work on that see If I can't get the weld puddle to expand to both sides of the material more. I definitely don't want it to break so I think you have a good point so I will keep practicing and post some more pics when I get there.Thanks for the positive comments everyone I appreciate it.Josh
Reply:^^^ Thanks Terry. Yeah I love my Dynasty I've been having the 350 on my mind lately! Yeah I'm pretty sure it's 4043. I'll have to double check though. Do you suggest anything other than 4043? MikeGyver said to turn the cleaning down, but when I set the balance low, say around 30%, it destroys the ceriated tungsten i'm using. It balls it up really bad and turns it almost black Can't figure out why it's doing this....? I set it to 75% and it runs fine with no problems.Also, wouldn't a wider etching zone mean I need to turn the cleaning balance up?...Last edited by tig_21; 12-30-2012 at 01:35 PM.Miller Dynasty 200Millermatic 211Instagram?.... find me @ WELD_MEDIC
Reply:tig_21,my remarks are related to the weld but focus on the joint prep as I think it will eventually lead to a better weld joint.First, by using a square edge cut joint in the tube material I think you may be limiting your root face area of the bead. If the 200 has to bring the two full cross section edges to the heat of fusion AND lay down some filler, then I'd expect the weld to be 'cold'.by that term I mean the weld may well fuse to the two parent metal halves, but the depth of penetration would be shallow. That would lead, IMO, to a low root face area, that relies on the super structure of the weld bead for strength.  as a practice I'd have run all the ends of the tubes including the sides not shown beveled here, on a belt sander and created an area for the weld root face.here I've over hung the last bead to give a pic comparing that the two beads are almost 'upside down'. I'd say the first bead was 'humped up' or too cold, even if the shallow fusion occurred; and the bead illustrated here was the correct shape.  Deeper down, but 'less domed up' on top.this last shot may be kind of confusing, because the software gave me a cross section outline of two weld bead 'droplets' since I made the bead by stacking little ovoid pieces..... What I'm hoping to make more clear is that the weld you show is limited to holding on to a small surface root puddle while the weld I show here has the root already cut deep by the bevel.  When you run the bead on this preparation the root face is much larger in area, the top can be almost flat and the overall strength is improved.Most important of all: the beveling reduces the section area of the parent metal so there is less to heat up with your 200.  This prep would only take a few minutes per end, and would then allow the deep cross section fusion of the weld into the parent material. Now the joint will begin to approach the strength of the material.I thought your welds look nice and uniform, but was concerned they relied on a just a small surface adhesion instead of a greater part of the full cross section of the parent material.Cheers,Kevin Morin
Reply:I like this project and will be following along. I've had some experience working with linear actuators and they can be interesting to say the least!Seeing your child exceed your expectations through a spark you created is the most wonderful feeling in the world!Miller Syncrowave 250 Millermatic 180Too much other stuff to list!
Reply:Wow Kevin thank you for taking the time to explain the importance of the groove and beveling. I will try it out tonight and post pics up and see how it does! Is that solid works you are drawing that up on? Looks great and the detail is awesome. I think not only me but everyone can learn from this diagram that you have posted!QuestWeld:This is the linear actuator I am talking about. I received 2 of them and they seem very high quality for the price. I hope this turns out as good as I'm thinking because it really hasn't cost much just mostly time. Attached ImagesMiller Dynasty 200Millermatic 211Instagram?.... find me @ WELD_MEDIC
Reply:tig_21, you're welcome for the reply, it seemed like a good thing to mention in this context.I'm using SketchUP to do the illustrations; then I export a 2D image as a *.jpg ; edit in photoshop to crop, size, save;upload that file to photobucket so I can link;so this site can have the image without the storage.cheersKevin Morin
Reply:I went to the shop tonight and practiced a little bit. I took Kevin Morin's advice and beveled the edges of the square tubing to get better penetration. I came up with these results. Lower profile than the previous welds and a lot stronger too. From now on I will perform this process. Thanks again Kevin!My only concern is the start and end of the weld. Seems to get a little bit "dirty"I turned my HZ up to 150 and it seemed to run better with a lower AC balance that I set at 60. Next post will be the table welds. Attached ImagesMiller Dynasty 200Millermatic 211Instagram?.... find me @ WELD_MEDIC
Reply:So these aren't perfect but I am getting better and happy with my settings and results. The dynasty is an amazing machine I don't think I would ever buy anything different. I need to practice on the ending of the weld. It doesn't necessarily have a crater but it is more concave than I would like it to be...  Attached ImagesMiller Dynasty 200Millermatic 211Instagram?.... find me @ WELD_MEDIC
Reply:A few more welds. I will probably work on the adjustable legs and installing the actuators next so til then, thanks for looking!  Attached ImagesMiller Dynasty 200Millermatic 211Instagram?.... find me @ WELD_MEDIC
Reply:Really nice work man, really nice!I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeReally nice work man, really nice!
Reply:Kevin, another great set of illustrations and explanation. I'm saving this for future reference to link to others with questions. We really need to get all your posts like this together at some point for guys to reference to.Josh, looking better. Your consistency is very good. I see a few minor hiccups, but no big deal. Personally I'd like to see the dips a bit closer together to loose that little bit at the toes where they don't quite flow together evenly. but again it's a minor detail and no big deal. Nice work..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:That's some ridiculous consistency.  I wish I was even at that level haha.  My consistency is maybe 10% of that.  If even.Keep it up!JoeMiller 140 Autoset (2010)Miller Syncrowave 250 (1996)
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWKevin, another great set of illustrations and explanation. I'm saving this for future reference to link to others with questions. We really need to get all your posts like this together at some point for guys to reference to.Josh, looking better. Your consistency is very good. I see a few minor hiccups, but no big deal. Personally I'd like to see the dips a bit closer together to loose that little bit at the toes where they don't quite flow together evenly. but again it's a minor detail and no big deal. Nice work.
Reply:Originally Posted by joebieThat's some ridiculous consistency.  I wish I was even at that level haha.  My consistency is maybe 10% of that.  If even.Keep it up!
Reply:Originally Posted by tig_21MikeGyver said to turn the cleaning down, but when I set the balance low, say around 30%, it destroys the ceriated tungsten i'm using. It balls it up really bad and turns it almost black Can't figure out why it's doing this....? I set it to 75% and it runs fine with no problems.Also, wouldn't a wider etching zone mean I need to turn the cleaning balance up?...^^^ thanks for the tips MIkeGyver. Appreciate it.So today I was able to get some more bracing done. I hate the way the tubes just end so for the front section I continued them and rolled them down into the main support bars. See pics.Still working on technique for the welds. The end of the welds always seem to be contaminated or dirty looking for some reason. Why is this? I can't figure out how to make it not do this... Attached ImagesMiller Dynasty 200Millermatic 211Instagram?.... find me @ WELD_MEDIC
Reply:Still working on technique for the welds. The end of the welds always seem to be contaminated or dirty looking for some reason. Why is this? I can't figure out how to make it not do this...
Reply:Try the next weld w/o brushing the aluminum. Also have you dialed in your cleaning/penetration? I imagine you'll be in the 75-80% range.And what AC frequency are you running?Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Your bead consistancy is great, nice work.  A couple things that might help you with things you have brought up.  As for the dimple at the end of your weld, try adding an extra dab of filler.  I like to slowly back off the pedal till the last bead has solidified, then go back in and add an extra quick dab of filler right on top the last bead.The dirty look at the end of the weld could just be a shielding issue.  Sometimes I get that if I get lazy with my torch angle and pull some crap in from around the corner.
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverTry the next weld w/o brushing the aluminum. Also have you dialed in your cleaning/penetration? I imagine you'll be in the 75-80% range.And what AC frequency are you running?
Reply:So it's been a while I know I've been slacking! Basically I finished the table today finally. I've been transitioning jobs and haven't really had as much time to work on it and just get it done. I built a side arm rest that slides to adjust. I'll post pics of that tomorrow. But in the meantime, enjoy the pictures and I took a video of it in action. It doesn't move up and down as fast but that's all good. it's not perfect and if I build another one i will definitely change a few things. Thanks for looking! Video: Attached ImagesMiller Dynasty 200Millermatic 211Instagram?.... find me @ WELD_MEDIC
Reply:I appreciate the constructive criticism that is given in such a gracious manner.
Reply:Oh yeah, and it's powdercoated black hammer. Some of the pics make it look like crappy spray paint. Pics don't really do it justice.....Miller Dynasty 200Millermatic 211Instagram?.... find me @ WELD_MEDIC
Reply:Why would you cover that beautiful aluminum with anything but clear coat?TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:^^^ Because that's what the guy wanted! Plus, I think it contrasts better with the wood that way.Miller Dynasty 200Millermatic 211Instagram?.... find me @ WELD_MEDIC
Reply:Came out great bud I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys