DIY spikes/nails (looking for a cutter)

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Want to cut 1/2" cold rolled round rod into spikes (don't want to grind them to a point).  Having a hard time finding the name of a cutter that would do that.  I guess I could make a jig up and use my chop saw, but I would prefer something to do it in one stroke, like a press, or bolt cutter type deal.  Anyone have any thoughts on that?The Lord has declared, "This is my work and my glory--to bring to pass the immortality and eternal life of man"  Moses 1:39Link: My name is John, and I am a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.-- ColdCreekWorks.com --
Reply:Ironworker.
Reply:You could also just cut them square and heat the end and forge them into a point.
Reply:Walker beat me to the point! (No pun) you should go mid evil on the situation . I've seen some pretty remarkable stuff made with an anvil a good hammer and a whole lotta heat! I have tried my hand at blacksmithing and absolutely loved it, I just don't have the time to get into it and do it regularly. There's just nothing like beating the crap out of a molten chunk of steel with a big ole hammer. (( who needs anger therapy when you have a plethora of hammers))As far as a shear that will cut pointed square edges, I have only ever seen something similar to that in automated mills. Good luck!Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:x2 on Dan and walker's suggestion to forge the point.  You don't need a forge, just a rosebud or other means to heat the tip to red or orange heat, as much length as you need.  You don't really have to have an anvil either.  Just a heavy, hard surface and a 2 1/2 to 3 lb. hammer.  First forge a square taper, then hammer the edges to an octagon, then finish rounding the remaining corners.  Brian Brazeal has a video on the subject.  Some people don't taper on the anvil edge, but merely start hammering the blunt edge thinner and work the way up the taper.
Reply:Why not a beverly shear then hot work to a point? Or vise versa?GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Most nails points are formed in a square die on an automated machine. The point is formed and the wire cut in one action. I would think you could make some dies and press them individually. I'd do it hot so the press doesn't have to work so hard. The die could likely be carved out of heavy stock with an angle grinder if you don't have access it a mill. For hot forming I wouldn't bother with any special steel... just about anything should work. You may have to experiment with the cut off as some of the material will want to spread out. Obviously, working them by hand on the anvil will likely be faster/easier but I love projects like this. Who do you know that has has a nail pointer in their shop? Keep us posted with your progress.Here the link I get the photo from:http://www.maneklalexports.com/Engli...e/WireNail.htmLast edited by forhire; 07-19-2014 at 12:32 AM.
Reply:sounds like a huge pain... y not just buy some big nails?Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:rebar cutter.  or http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...9556_200309556 Being cold rolled I thing most hand shears rated for 1/2" would have issues.
Reply:And why cold rolled?
Reply:Originally Posted by shortfusex2 on Dan and walker's suggestion to forge the point.  You don't need a forge, just a rosebud or other means to heat the tip to red or orange heat, as much length as you need.  You don't really have to have an anvil either.  Just a heavy, hard surface and a 2 1/2 to 3 lb. hammer.  First forge a square taper, then hammer the edges to an octagon, then finish rounding the remaining corners.  Brian Brazeal has a video on the subject.  Some people don't taper on the anvil edge, but merely start hammering the blunt edge thinner and work the way up the taper.
Reply:Thanks, Brian is a well-renowned blacksmith.
Reply:thx for all of the replies.  Didn't realize there were that many replies as WW never sent me notifications for most of them.Cold rolled because of the application.  I don't want it to bend like hot rolled would.Iron Worker, too expensive for what I am doingHeat -- I don't have an effective way to heat it.  Would cost to much.Big nails --- I have thought about it, but haven't made up my mind about it..... it is a cost thing.Die -- I like the die idea.  I would like to put it in the press and be done with it.The Lord has declared, "This is my work and my glory--to bring to pass the immortality and eternal life of man"  Moses 1:39Link: My name is John, and I am a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.-- ColdCreekWorks.com --
Reply:Originally Posted by jdh239Heat -- I don't have an effective way to heat it.  Would cost to much.Die -- I like the die idea.  I would like to put it in the press and be done with it.
Reply:Here is another image of a nail pointing die which may make it easier to see the geometry. Note how the edges of the V for a cutting edge to remove the excess. Obviously the dies will need to go into a suitable holder to keep them aligned.
Reply:I like the die option the most.  Seems most feasible.The Lord has declared, "This is my work and my glory--to bring to pass the immortality and eternal life of man"  Moses 1:39Link: My name is John, and I am a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.-- ColdCreekWorks.com --
Reply:Does the "point" have to be pointy (like a pyramid) or can it be like a wedge (2-sided bevel)?  The latter is what you can get with a couple whacks on a cutoff hardy."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:They are pointed just so they are easy to get in the ground..... like a tent spikeThe Lord has declared, "This is my work and my glory--to bring to pass the immortality and eternal life of man"  Moses 1:39Link: My name is John, and I am a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.-- ColdCreekWorks.com --
Reply:Well, then just cut them off at an angle with a saw, whack them off using a hardy (or a chisel) as above, or use some bolt cutters.  You don't need much of a point (if any) to drive something into the ground."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:If they will be similar to tent stakes, you can quickly put a 4-sided point on them by clamping in a vise and cutting the bevels with a 4 1/2" angle grinder and 1/16" cutoff disks, rotating 90 deg. each cut.  Done that lots of times.