6013 vs. 7014 ?

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Novice; hobby welding with:Mostly 6013 and some 6011, using 1/16" (ugh), 5/64" and 3/32" rods,On 1/8", 3/16", some occasional 1/4" flat stock, some rebar and 1/4" to 1/2" rod stock.  For my light work, no structural stuff, the 6013's seem to work OK.My question is would there be any real advantage to use 7014 rods for any of this stuff?  I could just buy a pound pkg. and try them, but I probably couldn't tell if they did any better than the 6013's.  Any low-hydrogen rods for occasional work would be a waste of $.Experience on the forum is my best eval.
Reply:The 7014 rods have a higher tensile strength if any of your welds need to hold weight...They are also easier to make a better looking weld, IMO.Harbor Freight Inverter 130 amp DC stick/tig (sold, really!)Lincoln Square Wave Tig 175 AC/DC stick/Tig
Reply:You should get a few Fleetweld 180's...... Ahhhh a scent you will remember forever.That used to be the #1 recommendation for the Lincoln Cracker Box machines.Lincoln SA200's... at least 15 - 20. They come and go. Growing partial to the "Short Hoods" in my old age. Last count on Short Hoods was 13 in possession.
Reply:Originally Posted by hobohiltonYou should get a few Fleetweld 180's...... Ahhhh a scent you will remember forever.That used to be the #1 recommendation for the Lincoln Cracker Box machines.
Reply:Originally Posted by AZ-BenThe 7014 rods have a higher tensile strength if any of your welds need to hold weight...They are also easier to make a better looking weld, IMO.
Reply:Originally Posted by shortfuseNot worried about tensile strength as I mentioned earlier, but I could ALWAYS use a better looking weld!
Reply:throw the 6013 in the trash and forget that rod ever existed, 7014 is a much better rod . Can you tell I hate 6013.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Originally Posted by TozziWeldingthrow the 6013 in the trash and forget that rod ever existed, 7014 is a much better rod . Can you tell I hate 6013.
Reply:I agree with Tozzi and Rick. I use 7014's almost daily at work repairinf carwash conveyor equipment and it's way easier to use and everything comes out looking way better.Hobart Handler 187, Craftsman drill press,Smith torch setup,Htp invertig221,Milwakee portaband saw w/Swagoffroad V3.0 table kit
Reply:OK, guys, thanks for the input on the 7014's...that's the kind of info I am looking for.  I'll get some and give 'em a try.As for practice, you bet!  I'm burning all the rods I can afford...nearly every day!!
Reply:Originally Posted by TozziWeldingthrow the 6013 in the trash and forget that rod ever existed, 7014 is a much better rod . Can you tell I hate 6013.
Reply:Originally Posted by shortfuseBTW, isn't the 7014 considered more of a "drag" rod than the others?
Reply:Both the 6013 and the 7014 are contact rods.  Years ago, 6013 was my favorite rod and had mastered it in every position.  When I went to the other rods, they were a breeze.  The secret to the 6013 is speed!  watch your puddle and make sure you get a puddle started BEFORE you start moving.  if not then you will have metal on both sides of the joint an slag caught in the middle or metal on one side and slag on stick between the weld metal and the other side of the joint.  I also see many who will long arc the rod and this always causes problems.  one last point is don't get ahead of your puddle.  if you do then you will trap slag like mentioned before.  This rod like no other I can think of teach you to watch your puddle.  It is a very easy rod to strike and burn, but don't be fooled by think it is an easy rod.
Reply:They are the same rod , 7014 has iron powder , if you need deposition and low hydrogen use E-7028 also a flat only rod with iron powder .
Reply:Originally Posted by Scott YoungBoth the 6013 and the 7014 are contact rods.  Years ago, 6013 was my favorite rod and had mastered it in every position.  When I went to the other rods, they were a breeze.  The secret to the 6013 is speed!  watch your puddle and make sure you get a puddle started BEFORE you start moving.  if not then you will have metal on both sides of the joint an slag caught in the middle or metal on one side and slag on stick between the weld metal and the other side of the joint.  I also see many who will long arc the rod and this always causes problems.  one last point is don't get ahead of your puddle.  if you do then you will trap slag like mentioned before.  This rod like no other I can think of teach you to watch your puddle.  It is a very easy rod to strike and burn, but don't be fooled by think it is an easy rod.
Reply:Rick,  The rod is one of the easiest to strike an arc with and it doesn't stick unless you have it turned down really low.  Hold a tight arc and build your puddle.  Then move.  I would say in your practice, try going too slow and over build that weld bead.  You can weld a slug worm that stands tall and proud.  After you do that then move your weld pool along faster till you have flattened that weld bead out like you want.    I think you will begin liking this rod once you get the hang of it.  It is much more common around here than the 7014.  I don't see where the 7014 is going to be any better for most things you will encounter as both 6013 and 7014 are above the tensile strength of the parent metal on most things you would be using these two rods for anyhow.  I found a 50lb box the other day of 6013s for $25.  I picked them up just because I could let them just sit there.  I will have to put the wire welding up for awhile so I can burn through some of the rods I have acquired.  My wife just shakes her head and says I have more welding wire and rods than I will ever use in a life time.  I just can't let deals go by.  HA!
Reply:Originally Posted by GWDMaybe you are meaning a "contact" rod rather than a "drag" rod. If so, then yes - most of the time you can just slide it on the metal once the arc is going. Don't run it at too great of an angle unless you desire to build up the deposit.
Reply:Originally Posted by Scott YoungBoth the 6013 and the 7014 are contact rods.  Years ago, 6013 was my favorite rod and had mastered it in every position.  When I went to the other rods, they were a breeze.  The secret to the 6013 is speed!  watch your puddle and make sure you get a puddle started BEFORE you start moving.  if not then you will have metal on both sides of the joint an slag caught in the middle or metal on one side and slag on stick between the weld metal and the other side of the joint.  I also see many who will long arc the rod and this always causes problems.  one last point is don't get ahead of your puddle.  if you do then you will trap slag like mentioned before.  This rod like no other I can think of teach you to watch your puddle.  It is a very easy rod to strike and burn, but don't be fooled by think it is an easy rod.
Reply:I find I can run beads fine... that exercise is good for learning welding speed and smooth travel but it is too forgiving of initial puddle formation, arc length and getting ahead of the weld puddle.The rubber meet the road when you move to filet welds! Then 6013 shows those 3 nasty characteristics that Scott described.1 - don't wait for the puddle to form = parallel weld tracks with slag in the middle2 - long arc just briefly and... 'poop' slag goes down3 - get ahead of the puddle and 'poop' down goes the slagWeld may look OK with the slag cover but when you knock off the cover - yikes! Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:Originally Posted by Rick VI find I can run beads fine... that exercise is good for learning welding speed and smooth travel but it is too forgiving of initial puddle formation, arc length and getting ahead of the weld puddle.The rubber meet the road when you move to filet welds! Then 6013 shows those 3 nasty characteristics that Scott described.1 - don't wait for the puddle to form = parallel weld tracks with slag in the middle2 - long arc just briefly and... 'poop' slag goes down3 - get ahead of the puddle and 'poop' down goes the slagWeld may look OK with the slag cover but when you knock off the cover - yikes!
Reply:Both those rods are good learning rods for beginners, if you have an AC only machine.I consider them both junk rods and don't waste my time with them. 6010 and 7018 only here.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720